Hákarl: when in Iceland, eat as the Icelanders generally don’t
The farm of Berserkjahraun points the way to where hákarl is produced,
on the peninsula of Snæfellsnes.
The name of this traditional dish of fermented shark meat translates
as ‘rotten’ shark. While some Icelanders do eat the traditional dish,
many think it’s disgusting and therefore an appropriate and amusing
tourist attraction. Tourists – particularly those seeking some
fabricated notion of ‘the real Iceland’ – agree
report
Akin to the kiviaq (rotted auks aged in sealskin) produced by
Greenland’s Inuits, hákarl is a traditional Icelandic dish created
when basking shark is left to ferment for months until the poisons
naturally contained in its flesh have melted away to leave behind a
strongly ammoniac taste and the most putrid of scents. There are two
types of hákarl: red, which comes from the belly, and skyr, which
roughly means ‘yogurt’, giving you some idea of the meat’s consistency
and provenance.
Apparently some visitors – mostly hardy folk from Alpine regions –
find it comparable to really, really old, sweaty cheese, but more
normal people simply find it repulsive. One ill-advised taster here in
Iceland says it was like ‘eating the gangrenous, blackened toes of a
long-dead polar explorer which have been defrosted and left behind a
radiator for a few days.’ Most people agree that it tastes — perhaps
predictably — of rotting flesh, but that it’s the burst of ammonia as
you bite down that makes it genuinely sick-making. If you want to
avoid eating this filth, then you should probably avoid visiting the
Bjarnarhöfn farm on the otherwise magnificent Snaefellsnes peninsula
in western Iceland. The farm, in existence ‘since AD 866’, is the
epicentre of Iceland’s hákarl production and is terrifyingly
accessible by day-trip from Reykjavik.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-xhfJRdwHnU
We’re keep our breakfasts down this morning
Unfortunately, hákarl is widely available elsewhere too. It is
advertised with sensationalistic ‘if ye dare’-style signboards and
purchasable both from malodorous food carts and from souvenir shops in
vacuum-packs. It is also available much cheaper in supermarkets, but
that information is only useful if you plan to serve it at your
christmas buffet in order to hasten the deaths of wealthy elderly
relatives.
For more casual users, there will probably be opportunities to try it
for free: hotel restaurants, tourist shops, and food vendors often
pass around pasty, gelatinous little white chunks on toothpicks, which
is a more than ample portion for any sane person. But as you vomit a
little inside your mouth, do remember that this is a moment of
cultural outreach, of touching the ‘real’ Iceland. It is, maybe, even
a charitable service to the Icelandic community. After all, in some
parts of Iceland watching tourists grimace and quietly retch may well
be locals’ only form of entertainment…and entertaining it is too.
Recipe for hákarl:
Don’t. Just don’t. Most recipes start with the following disclaimer:
‘don’t try this at home unless you know what the end product is
supposed to taste like. Although cured shark is putrefied and thus
technically spoiled already, it can go bad and give you food
poisoning.’ And do you really want to know what it’s supposed to taste
like?
(Sounds likes it's even worse than lutefisk – T. Blinda.)