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Eugene Holman

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Jul 4, 2004, 10:16:49 AM7/4/04
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I'm back from St. Petersburg.

St. Peterburg is a Baltic, perhaps *the* Baltic, city, and our (I and my
nubile Finnish travelling companion) trip there was implemented by
Tallink, an Estonian travel agency selling its services in Finland, so
what I have to say is relevant to SCB.

OVERALL
I have visited St. Petersburg, aka Leningrad, more than ten times since
1970. I have never seen it more prosperous or beautiful than it is now. It
is quite evident that there at least a Russian middle class has evolved,
and that they are running the small businesses that are making St.
Ptersburg look and function like a "normal" European city.

The Russia of today has gotten rid of some of the oppressive bureaucracy
that was a part of my past visits. For the first time in my experience it
was not necessary to submit customs declarations, and nobody cared how
much money, including rubles, that you brought in or took out. I used the
ubiquitous ATMs to purchase the rubles that I needed with my Visa card; I
never used exchange bureaux.

I made purchases in local supermarkets and ate (and drank) at places
frequented by locals. Prices were reasonable, stores were full of goods,
and the locals had enough money to be using them.

My nubile Finnish travelling companion and I stayed at the Hotel
Pribaltiskaya (http://www.hotels.msk.ru/hotels/1460003.asp), a clean and
luxurious four-star hotel. Located on Vasilyevskaya Island, the Hotel
Pribaltiskaya, the basic infrastructure (doors, locks, elevators) of which
is Finnish, is within easy reach of the center by metro (station
"Pribaltiskaya"), bus (No. 7), or free hotel shuttle.

ST. PETERSBURG
A lot of work has gone into restoring St. Petersburg to its former glory.
The facts that president Putin is from there and that the city recently
celebrated its 300th anniversary, have obviously played a role. The last
time I was there, in 2002, propsperity was noteable, but restricted. Now
it has spread. If it weren't for the still represssive and increasingly
irrelevant bureaucracy converning the visas (now 64¤ for a US citizen if
purchased in Finland), this would be a normal European tourist
destination. St. Petersburg ranks with London, Paris, and Rome as one of
the great European cities.

SOME HIGHLGHTS
€ The Hermitage (http://www.hermitage.ru/html_En/index.html). The former
practice of adding an extra zero to the price of ticket for Western
tourists has been dropped, even if Westerners have to pay more than
Russians. The price for westerners is RUR 375 (¤ 10.70/$12.50). Students
with student cards from *all* countries are admitted free. This is one of
the best bargains in the world.
€ St. Isaac's Cathedral
(http://www.mcgalliard.org/content/Pictures/isaac). One of the world's
great churches. There was a joint Russian/American exhibition about the
development of the technology of dome construction during the 19th century
to complement the glory of the church itself.
€ Peterhof (http://www.cityvision2000.com/city_tour/peterhof.htm). A
dgeneratedly luxurious palace in the suburbs. Full of delightful fountains
and places to rest.
€ The metro (http://www.petersburg-info.de/startseite/metro2/metro2.html).
One of the world's great subway systems. I fulfilled a long-time desire to
see the Kirovski zavod (lower right picture at above URL) metro station.
€ A new shopping center. The last time I was in St. Petersburg there was a
large, old fashioned outdoor market at the metro station Ladozhskaya. Now
most of the outdoor marketplace is gone, replaced by a hypermodern
shopping center, with, among other things, a large computer/electronics
store and a sushi bar.

ONE BUMMER
The former main dining room of the Literary Café on Nevsky prospect, where
Pushkin had his last meal before being mortally wounded in a duel in
defense of his wife's honor, is now a Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant.
Market forces!?

THE BALTIC PRESENCE
I regard Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, as well as Poland and Finland, as
Baltic countries.
€ Estonia. Estonia is quite evident as one of the Western tour operators
that arranges trips to St. Petersburg. Tallink (http://www.tallink.fi/), a
major Estonian travel agency, has a visible presence in St. Petersburg. It
brings Westerners to St. Petersburg just as it takes Russians to Helsinki
and Tallinn.
€ Finland. Finnish consumer products, particularly milk and cheese, are
widely available in local supermarkets. They are somewhat more expensive
than locally made alternatives.
€ Latvia. Many Latvian consumer products, particularly socks, underwear,
and fruit juices, are available at competitive prices at local
supermarkets.
€ Lithuania. I didn't see any Lithuanian products in local supermarkets.
€ Poland. Paper tissues, spices, packaged soups, and frozen foods from
Poland were on sale.
€ Disturbing is the fact that relatively few Russian-manufactured products
were on sale; I bought a bottle of Stolichnaya vodka (0.5 liter, 78
rubles(!)), some crouton-like snacks (8 rubles), and a pack of plastic
spoons (10 rubles) to eat red caviar (100 rubles), but the overwhelming
majority of the stuff in the supermartket was importeted.
€ I purchased the Russian DVD of the blockbuster film, "The Day after
Tomorrow (= "Poslezavtra")", for 100 rubles.

SUMMA SUMMARUM
€ PLUS.
- St. Petersburg has re-established its postion as one of the top-ranking
European cities in terms of interesting things to see or experience, and
value-for-money ratio: 100 rubles, ¤ 2.86, goes a long way. For the time
being, it is a great city at bargain prices. Standards of cleanliness have
also markedly improved. It is evident that a lot of money has gravitated
towards the city, and that much of it is being used to improve the local
infrastructure.
- Tallink presented a magnificent show in its restaurant based on Russian
themes and dances during the trip to St. Ptersburg, and another one, based
on international themes and dances, during the trip from St. Peterburg.

€ MINUS.
- The two-tiered pricing system at museums and theaters for tourists as
opposed to locals, still complex and relatively complex visa regime needed
to enter Russia, the McDonaldsization and Kentucky-Fried-Chickenization of
the city.
- At the Ladozhskaya shopping center I spent some time following the
competition between Kentuckcy Fried Chicken, a pizza restaurant, the
Russian "House of Blinis", and a suchi restaurant. Nobody, absoluely
nobody, wanted to eat the Russian entry, blinis, no matter how
enthusiastic the personnel was.

€ NEUTRAL
- The regime for getting *out* of Russia was a joke compared to the regime
for getting *into* Russia. To give a single example, at Morskoy Vokzal,
the seaport terminal, Departure was Entrace backwards. We had to subject
our baggage to X-ray, but in the reverse direcgion. The official was happy
to spread his enthusiasm about the X-ray machines with us, and we were
allowed to see what he saw on the screen. Great for PR, perhaps not so
great for Russian security.


Regards,
Eugene Holman

Eugene Holman

unread,
Jul 4, 2004, 10:30:23 AM7/4/04
to

The facts that President Putin is from there and that the city recently


celebrated its 300th anniversary, have obviously played a role. The last

time I was there, in 2002, prosperity was noteable, but restricted. Now


it has spread. If it weren't for the still represssive and increasingly
irrelevant bureaucracy converning the visas (now 64¤ for a US citizen if
purchased in Finland), this would be a normal European tourist
destination. St. Petersburg ranks with London, Paris, and Rome as one of
the great European cities.

SOME HIGHLGHTS
€ The Hermitage (http://www.hermitage.ru/html_En/index.html). The former
practice of adding an extra zero to the price of ticket for Western

tourists has been dropped, even if Westerners still have to pay more than
Russians. The price for Westerners is RUR 375 (¤ 10.70/$12.50). Students

and Tallinn. Some sophisticated foodstuffs, such as exotic spices, were
also available under Estonian, utlimately Swedish, brand names.


€ Finland. Finnish consumer products, particularly milk and cheese, are
widely available in local supermarkets. They are somewhat more expensive

than local alternatives.


€ Latvia. Many Latvian consumer products, particularly socks, underwear,
and fruit juices, are available at competitive prices at local
supermarkets.
€ Lithuania. I didn't see any Lithuanian products in local supermarkets.
€ Poland. Paper tissues, spices, packaged soups, and frozen foods from
Poland were on sale.
€ Disturbing is the fact that relatively few Russian-manufactured products
were on sale; I bought a bottle of Stolichnaya vodka (0.5 liter, 78
rubles(!)), some crouton-like snacks (8 rubles), and a pack of plastic
spoons (10 rubles) to eat red caviar (100 rubles), but the overwhelming

majority of the stuff in the supermarket was imported.


€ I purchased the Russian DVD of the blockbuster film, "The Day after
Tomorrow (= "Poslezavtra")", for 100 rubles.

SUMMA SUMMARUM
€ PLUS.
- St. Petersburg has re-established its position as one of the top-ranking


European cities in terms of interesting things to see or experience, and
value-for-money ratio: 100 rubles, ¤ 2.86, goes a long way. For the time
being, it is a great city at bargain prices. Standards of cleanliness have
also markedly improved. It is evident that a lot of money has gravitated
towards the city, and that much of it is being used to improve the local
infrastructure.
- Tallink presented a magnificent show in its restaurant based on Russian
themes and dances during the trip to St. Ptersburg, and another one, based
on international themes and dances, during the trip from St. Peterburg.

€ MINUS.
- The two-tiered pricing system at museums and theaters for tourists as

opposed to locals, the still complex and relatively complex visa regime needed


to enter Russia, the McDonaldsization and Kentucky-Fried-Chickenization of
the city.
- At the Ladozhskaya shopping center I spent some time following the
competition between Kentuckcy Fried Chicken, a pizza restaurant, the
Russian "House of Blinis", and a suchi restaurant. Nobody, absoluely
nobody, wanted to eat the Russian entry, blinis, no matter how
enthusiastic the personnel was.

€ NEUTRAL
- The regime for getting *out* of Russia was a joke compared to the regime
for getting *into* Russia. To give a single example, at Morskoy Vokzal,
the seaport terminal, Departure was Entrace backwards. We had to subject

our baggage to X-ray, but in the reverse direction. The official was happy

kirill

unread,
Jul 4, 2004, 11:16:33 AM7/4/04
to
Interesting report. Apparently the per capita GDP of St. Petersburg is still about
a third that of Moscow. Maybe things are starting to change, finally.

Rostyslaw J. Lewyckyj

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Jul 4, 2004, 4:41:38 PM7/4/04
to
Er, Dr. Holman, Sir
Nubile means marriageable and may be of any age, suitable to
the partner ;) . So let's just write that I am happy on your
behalf, and wish you the best of futures.
My assumption being that you are not taking advantage of
some starry eyed graduate assistant, dazzled by her doctoral
research professor, and that she is rather a level headed
adult, and so are you. ;)

Uno Hu

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Jul 4, 2004, 6:32:36 PM7/4/04
to
kirill <kir...@university.ca> wrote in message news:<40E81F51...@university.ca>...

Probably just too much Stolyichnaya for hole-man and his blind school protoge..

Uno Hu

Captain!

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Jul 5, 2004, 1:24:22 AM7/5/04
to

"Eugene Holman" <hol...@elo.helsinki.fi> wrote in message
news:holman-0407...@c518-m3.eng.helsinki.fi...
<snip>

> ? MINUS.


> - The two-tiered pricing system at museums and theaters for tourists as
> opposed to locals, the still complex and relatively complex visa regime
needed
> to enter Russia, the McDonaldsization and Kentucky-Fried-Chickenization of
> the city.
> - At the Ladozhskaya shopping center I spent some time following the
> competition between Kentuckcy Fried Chicken, a pizza restaurant, the
> Russian "House of Blinis", and a suchi restaurant. Nobody, absoluely
> nobody, wanted to eat the Russian entry, blinis, no matter how
> enthusiastic the personnel was.

when i am there, i will be sure to visit the house of blinis.


Lansford Hastings

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Jul 5, 2004, 7:33:59 AM7/5/04
to

"Captain!" <Spammer...@now.net> wrote in message
news:aC5Gc.89656$HS3.58796@edtnps84...

Don't forget Yalki Palki.


Ty Gal

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Jul 5, 2004, 12:26:42 PM7/5/04
to

"Lansford Hastings" wrote:

> > "Eugene Holman" wrote:

> > > - At the Ladozhskaya shopping center I spent some time following the
> > > competition between Kentuckcy Fried Chicken, a pizza restaurant, the

> > > Russian "House of Blinis" [...]


>
> Don't forget Yalki Palki.

"Yolki-palki", Lance!.. from the word "yOlka", 'fir-tree'.

--
Ty Gal.

The Black Monk

unread,
Jul 6, 2004, 12:42:12 PM7/6/04
to
This mathces my impression from last summer. My Moscow friends told
me that the positive impression I had was temporary and due to the
massive influx of cash from the 300 year aniversary. Glad to see that
this is probably not the case.

regards,

BM


hol...@elo.helsinki.fi (Eugene Holman) wrote in message news:<holman-0407...@c518-m3.eng.helsinki.fi>...

> ? The Hermitage (http://www.hermitage.ru/html_En/index.html). The former


> practice of adding an extra zero to the price of ticket for Western
> tourists has been dropped, even if Westerners still have to pay more than
> Russians. The price for Westerners is RUR 375 (¤ 10.70/$12.50). Students
> with student cards from *all* countries are admitted free. This is one of
> the best bargains in the world.

> ? St. Isaac's Cathedral


> (http://www.mcgalliard.org/content/Pictures/isaac). One of the world's
> great churches. There was a joint Russian/American exhibition about the
> development of the technology of dome construction during the 19th century
> to complement the glory of the church itself.

> ? Peterhof (http://www.cityvision2000.com/city_tour/peterhof.htm). A


> dgeneratedly luxurious palace in the suburbs. Full of delightful fountains
> and places to rest.

> ? The metro (http://www.petersburg-info.de/startseite/metro2/metro2.html).


> One of the world's great subway systems. I fulfilled a long-time desire to
> see the Kirovski zavod (lower right picture at above URL) metro station.

> ? A new shopping center. The last time I was in St. Petersburg there was a


> large, old fashioned outdoor market at the metro station Ladozhskaya. Now
> most of the outdoor marketplace is gone, replaced by a hypermodern
> shopping center, with, among other things, a large computer/electronics
> store and a sushi bar.
>
> ONE BUMMER
> The former main dining room of the Literary Café on Nevsky prospect, where
> Pushkin had his last meal before being mortally wounded in a duel in
> defense of his wife's honor, is now a Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant.
> Market forces!?
>
> THE BALTIC PRESENCE
> I regard Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, as well as Poland and Finland, as
> Baltic countries.

> ? Estonia. Estonia is quite evident as one of the Western tour operators


> that arranges trips to St. Petersburg. Tallink (http://www.tallink.fi/), a
> major Estonian travel agency, has a visible presence in St. Petersburg. It
> brings Westerners to St. Petersburg just as it takes Russians to Helsinki
> and Tallinn. Some sophisticated foodstuffs, such as exotic spices, were
> also available under Estonian, utlimately Swedish, brand names.

> ? Finland. Finnish consumer products, particularly milk and cheese, are


> widely available in local supermarkets. They are somewhat more expensive
> than local alternatives.

> ? Latvia. Many Latvian consumer products, particularly socks, underwear,


> and fruit juices, are available at competitive prices at local
> supermarkets.

> ? Lithuania. I didn't see any Lithuanian products in local supermarkets.
> ? Poland. Paper tissues, spices, packaged soups, and frozen foods from
> Poland were on sale.
> ? Disturbing is the fact that relatively few Russian-manufactured products


> were on sale; I bought a bottle of Stolichnaya vodka (0.5 liter, 78
> rubles(!)), some crouton-like snacks (8 rubles), and a pack of plastic
> spoons (10 rubles) to eat red caviar (100 rubles), but the overwhelming
> majority of the stuff in the supermarket was imported.

> ? I purchased the Russian DVD of the blockbuster film, "The Day after


> Tomorrow (= "Poslezavtra")", for 100 rubles.
>
> SUMMA SUMMARUM

> ? PLUS.

> - St. Petersburg has re-established its position as one of the top-ranking
> European cities in terms of interesting things to see or experience, and
> value-for-money ratio: 100 rubles, ¤ 2.86, goes a long way. For the time
> being, it is a great city at bargain prices. Standards of cleanliness have
> also markedly improved. It is evident that a lot of money has gravitated
> towards the city, and that much of it is being used to improve the local
> infrastructure.
> - Tallink presented a magnificent show in its restaurant based on Russian
> themes and dances during the trip to St. Ptersburg, and another one, based
> on international themes and dances, during the trip from St. Peterburg.
>

> ? MINUS.


> - The two-tiered pricing system at museums and theaters for tourists as
> opposed to locals, the still complex and relatively complex visa regime needed
> to enter Russia, the McDonaldsization and Kentucky-Fried-Chickenization of
> the city.
> - At the Ladozhskaya shopping center I spent some time following the
> competition between Kentuckcy Fried Chicken, a pizza restaurant, the
> Russian "House of Blinis", and a suchi restaurant. Nobody, absoluely
> nobody, wanted to eat the Russian entry, blinis, no matter how
> enthusiastic the personnel was.
>

> ? NEUTRAL

Eugene Holman

unread,
Jul 8, 2004, 2:59:26 PM7/8/04
to
In article <iUZFc.952$jJ3...@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
urj...@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Er, Dr. Holman, Sir
> Nubile means marriageable and may be of any age, suitable to
> the partner ;) . So let's just write that I am happy on your
> behalf, and wish you the best of futures.
> My assumption being that you are not taking advantage of
> some starry eyed graduate assistant, dazzled by her doctoral
> research professor, and that she is rather a level headed
> adult, and so are you. ;)

<deletions>

No problems. She contacted a mutual acquaintance to link up with me after
seeing me on Finnish TV. I've even met and spent time with her parents and
sister (all of whom, alas, are younger than I am).

Spring-fall relationships have their delights.

Greetings,
Eugene Holman

Rostyslaw J. Lewyckyj

unread,
Jul 8, 2004, 4:19:41 PM7/8/04
to

I see that my assumptions have been refuted. ;)
Enjoy it, while it lasts.

Eugene Holman

unread,
Jul 8, 2004, 4:46:18 PM7/8/04
to
In article <s2iHc.19449$285....@bignews6.bellsouth.net>,
urj...@bellsouth.net wrote:
<deletions>

> I see that my assumptions have been refuted. ;)
> Enjoy it, while it lasts.

Dze,kuje, bardzo.

/EH

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