Greg Rullman
President
Duke City Electric Flyers
Hint of the Week: When in doubt, check your speed control. Yes, many times, this means learning the beeps!
If your plane's power system is acting funny... weird sounds, cutouts, power losses, you know... anything but smooth consistent power, you really need to check that ESC's Manual and learn how to program the unit.
I can't go into detail here. We're in sorta the same situation we had with Radio Manufacturers years back and their servo plugs. Remember that? They were all basically the same size plug, except each brand had to have a different wire arrangement so the servos would only work with their equipment. Thank someone, they all came to their senses!
As far as ESCs go, most makers program them at the factory for the best operation with the most used motors, or for any particular aircraft they will be put in. The defaults are typically set to those parameters so the user doesn't have to mess with them. However, sometimes they are not.
I recently purchased the new FlightLine Mustang. This P-51 is really well done in almost every area. But flying, I found it had an annoying little "screech" occurring after I powered off to come down out of a maneuver and then powered back up at the bottom... Pull out. Power. Screech! Every time. Almost as if the prop was controlling the ESC! I called Motion about it and the tech (not mentioned) reproduced the "Manual" talk. Problem was, the FreeWing Manual had a new item in the list of programmable features called Active Freewheeling. I could tell that the gent really did not know what that was. Neither did I!
He - and the Manual - stated that one could buy a programming unit with a display to properly check for the correct functions. I looked online and there were a few units of different makes and all proprietary, however only one for Freewing ESCs fitting the description. It had 2 reviews. Both were 1 star and both had failed to work! Great.
I guess it's up to me and the beeps!
It's a little brain scratching to program an ESC if you've never done it before. They all have similar but different steps in moving the Throttle back and forth to move from or to make selections based on beeps coming from the motor of different tones and of different lengths. The sequence usually passes through all the selections, then circles back around to the beginning. I recommend reading the manual thoroughly to understand everything they are telling you. I recommend removing the prop before you start. I also recommend writing your selections down on paper so you can see what you need to do while moving the throttle stick. It takes a bit of practice and you want to get these selections just right.
The trick is remembering that most all of these little Electron Secretion Creatures circle back to the beginning after running through their selections. Use that unique system for practice. You may make a mistake the first two or three tries, but eventually, you will get the hang of it and go right through the sequence without missing a beat... er, selection.
As far as what to program, I can't tell you, as there are too many different set-ups. - Is the motor an outrunner or an inrunner? How many poles? How many cells? The list goes on and on. When in doubt, get advice or set things to medium. Check the defaults in your manual.
Here's my current set-up for the FlightLine Mustang/FreeWing ESC as an example
1. Brake Type - Disabled (you really don't want a motor brake on a scale prop plane)
2. Brake Force - Low (it's actually OFF because the Brake is disabled above)
3. Voltage Cutoff Type - Soft (this is so the prop gradually slows down when the battery is too low, telling you something. However, it's actually disabled from #5)
4. # LiPo Cells - Auto (you could put in a number as well if the plane is always using the same cell count)
5. Cutoff Voltage - Disabled (here is my preference. I would rather lose a battery than the plane. Use the Tx Batt Voltage warning instead, or a simple timer to warn you before it gets too low)
6. Start Up Mode - Normal (you want the prop to spin up fast on a prop plane. Slow for something like a heli)
7. Timing - Medium (safely used for most outrunners. The higher the timing, the faster the spin, the higher the amps, the higher the heat, and the shorter the flight)
8. Active Freewheel - Off (no screech!)
9. Search Mode - Off
Again, this is just an example for this particular speed control. But, it should give you a good idea if you have to "get into one!"
Btw... after trial and error, I found that setting the Active Freewheeling to OFF got rid of the in-air screech. Yaaay!
Note: I also had a Freewing ESC Manual from another, earlier airplane. It was labeled as a V1. The Mustang's was labeled as a V2. Interestingly, the V1 said to set Freewheeling to OFF. The V2 said to put it ON!
To unsubscribe, please reply to this newsletter with UNSUBSCRIBE in the Subject Box… Thanks! g