600d Manual
Nancie Fazzari
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Had this EXACT dilemma with my t4i after using extension tubes for macro photos but I have found a way to solve it. After resetting everything and updating firmware I had no luck. What you need to do is put a canon lens (or any auto aperture lens) on the camera, turn on live view and open the aperture to its lowest stop. Next, turn live view off, but keep the cameras power on. Remove the lens and replace with the manual lens you were having the issue with (mine was a Sigma 14mm 2.8). It should now be showing a correctly exposed live view during manual ISO. Hope this helps anyone with this problem.
I am trying to build up my knowledge in the Manual mode on my camera and I am clearly doing something wrong. I want to use the camer to take a meter reading, but I can't figure out how I am meant to view this. I am in manual mode and I have set the camera to the ISO and aperture that I want to use, and I want the camera to show me its recommendation for shutter speed.
I know this should be a case of hold down the shutter button halfway and look through the viewfinder and see the output there; however, when I am doing this, the screen seems to just show me the settings that I have already chosen on screen, I.E. it doesn't seem to be doing any kind of metering - just confirming the settings I have shown.
If you are in manual mode it will do exactly what you are seeing. That is what Manual mode is. The settings are fixed until you change them. The camera has nothing to do with it. You can use a real hand held light meter. Best choice, or you can watch the meter on the screen in the viewfinder. You must move some control yourself to get it to adjust and indicate when the exposure is correct.
If the indicator (on my 1D Mk IV) is at the bottom, or I believe to the left on a T3i, of the screen, the exposure is under . If at the top, or right for a T3i, it is over. You need to change something until it centers.
I'm using a Canon 600d with a EFS 18-55mm lens. I'm in the M setting on the dial with the shutter speed at 1/125 and f/5.6 and the phots are coming out really dark even though the room is bright. Please help?
You can't just choose a shutter speed and an aperture. As ebiggs mentions, you need to take a meter reading and then set the camera up appropriately. As Derekp13 mentions, indoors with artificial lighting you will likely need to use a higher ISO.... but just switching to 1600 is sheer guess work. It might work... or not.
Until you get the book, read it and understand it, set the camera to P (program) mode and the camera will select both the shutter speed and the aperture for you, based upon the meter readings it takes. You'll still need to watch for warnings about over or underexposure and adjust the ISO when needed (higher in dim conditions, or lower in bright light).
There are more highly automated modes on the camera, but by using P, Av, and Tv, which are also automatic modes but allow you to give some input to what the camera does, you are taking the first steps toward learning to use the camera in full manual (M) exposure mode.
Actually... I WOULD buy the Bryan Peterson "Understanding Exposure" book... probably one of the most recommended books for those who want to learn to take control of their DSLR and learn to shoot on manual. The Scott Kelby Digital Photography series of books is also commonly recommended (I think that's up to 4 volumes now) -- but I think the Bryan Peterson book is probably more popular. These books use common language and wont confuse you with technical terms with a presumption that you know all the terminology... they teach you the terminology, but the books are designed for those just starting out.
The ultimate goal is to understand how to determine when you have the right exposure... if you can shoot in manual you can shoot in any mode. With that said... I do actually use ALL the modes on my camera -- not just manual. There are reasons the other modes exist.
As for videos... this one should hopefully be a good primer to understand exposure and how you can trade off one part of the exposure setting, but make up for it by balancing out another part of the exposure setting.
BTW, you'll learn about "equivalent exposures" -- but they're not really equivalent. When you trade one setting for another, you get nuances... some exposures are better for freezing action. Some better for creating selective focus (focus only on your intended subject with everything else deliberately blurred). Some are better for landscapes where everything is in focus. Some are better for keeping noise minimized in low light shooting. Some are better for "blurring" moving parts of the shot to imply motion. The list goes on and on -- the point is, picking the right exposure combination is a creative process.
I do NOT normally suggest you crank up the ISO as a way to improve the light becasue the camera will increase the amount of "noise" in the image. The image will start to look grainy. If you shoot JPEG then the camera will attempt to reduce the noise via software smoothing processes... but this has the side effect of softening the image (focus will not look as sharp.)
This is why it's a good idea to read a good book or watch a few good videos to make sure you understand it. It's actually not very hard, but may take some practice to get it to really sink in. I find that even after explaining it to people, they don't "really" get it until they do a few exercises/experiments of their own -- and then the light bulb comes on and you "get it".
If you cannot remove dirt or dust on the image sensor (CMOS) even by using the sensor cleaning function on your camera, or if your camera does not have a function for sensor cleaning, you can clean the sensor on your own by using a commercially available blower.IMPORTANTThe surface of the image sensor is extremely delicate. If the sensor needs to be cleaned directly, it is advisable to contact a Canon Service Center.CAUTION
- For the power source, using an AC Adapter Kit ACK-E8 (sold separately) is recommended.
- If you use a battery, make sure it is fully recharged. If the battery grip with size-AA/LR6 batteries is attached, manual sensor cleaning will not be possible.
9. After cleaning, set the power switch to [OFF].
CAUTION
- While cleaning the sensor, never do any of the following. If the power is cut off, the shutter will close and the shutter curtains and image sensor may get damaged.
- The surface of the image sensor is extremely delicate. Clean the sensor with care.
- Use a plain blower without any brush attached. A brush can scratch the sensor.
- Do not insert the blower tip inside the camera beyond the lens mount. If the power is turned off, the shutter will close and the shutter curtains or reflex mirror may get damaged.
- Never use pressurized air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force can damage the sensor, or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor and scratch it.
- If the battery level becomes low while cleaning the sensor, the beeper will sound as a warning. Stop cleaning the sensor.
- If a smudge that cannot be removed with a blower remains, having the sensor cleaned by a Canon Service Center is recommended.
The CM-600d Spectrophotometer is a handheld, portable measurement instrument designed to evaluate the color and appearance of various samples medium to large in size, including objects with flat, shaped, or curved surfaces. This high precision, reliable spectrophotometer allows users to evaluate, reproduce, and control the color of pigments and dyes in a more effective, streamlined process. Its advanced capabilities help establish and meet color quality standards more efficiently, maintain consistency in each batch of material, and communicate color seamlessly internally and throughout the supply chain. This makes the CM-600d ideal for color analysis, formulation, quality control inspections, and process control procedures within research and manufacturing environments.
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