Itested it on Ubuntu 16.04 with OBS and works perfectly out of the box via USB in both its "PC" mode and "external storage" mode.
Avermedia doesn't officially support Linux but the "uvcvideo" module does the job flawlessly.
If you want to record HDCP protected content, there is hardware available that can strip this before you input into your capture card. For instance there is a SCART to HDMI converter that also has an HDMI input that passes through without HDCP.
I would like to record an HDMI signal directly into FCP X. I have a Canon HFS100 camcorder with HDMI output going into a Blackmagic Intensity Extreme. The Thunderbolt cable from the Intensity Extreme is plugged into my iMac. When I bring up the Import from Camera window, FCP X does not recognize the HFS100 as an input device. I have the Blackmagic preferences set as follows:
I have tried all of the HFS100 output resolutions (limited to 1080i/60, 1080p/30 & 1080p/24) but none seem to work. Has anyone successfully caputured HDMI in FCP X using a Blackmagic Intensity Extreme? If so, I would appreciate you help.
As a related question, other than the Blackmagic Media Express app, I have not been able to get other applications to recognize the HDMI input signal from the Intensity Extreme. Am I missing some software?
I suggest you check with BlackMagic about compatibility with FCP X. In a quick tour of their website, I saw mention of Final Cut Pro, but nothing about a version, so it may be referring to "classic" Final Cut Pro; maybe FCP X is not fully supported (yet?).
Any update on this? I'm also wondering about capturing live video with FCPX and am looking for a hardware solution that works with it. I currently have a Matrox MX02 LE that is not compatible with FCPX capturing. Looking for another device and was wondering about Blackmagic solutions...
Still no update. I haven't yet tried capturing video through the Intensity Extreme using Mountain Lioin (which I am now on). Not even sure the Intensity Extreme software is compatible with Mountain Lion. I'll report my results when I try it this weekend. My guess is if I couldn't get it to work with Lion, it's likely not going to work with Mountain Lion. But one can hope.
You can't capture HDMI directly into FCX with ANY capture card. FCX doesn't support external signal capture for anything outside of DV or HDV (that is done via firewire). Apple doesn't believe in that anymore. Tape doesn't exist...and along those lines, external video signals don't either. Tapeless footage already captured is all FCX knows how to deal with.
I'd love to be able to record a (non-firewire) live input directly into FCPX without having to use another piece of software to capture it. Too bad this is not possible. I liked being able to record directly into FCP7 with my Matrox.
I experimented with the Matrox Vetura Capture software yesterday and like that it records to ProRes 422, eliminating the need to transcode. I guess the process of importing the footage into FCPX isn't that complicated or time consuming. I like to limit my "setup" time with video editing so I'm resistant to this idea but maybe I'll come around. ?
Matrox is showing on their web site that Vetura Capture for FCP X is "coming soon" ( ://
www.matrox.com/video/en/solutions/fcp_x/. Of course, "coming soon" could mean anything from weeks, to months, to years, but I am hopeful that one day my Matrox Mini will actually have some use in FCP X as the analog capture device that I bought it for.
Hey Guys, I finally got my LED strip to answer the effects loader on Hyperion Website. I am using a Rpi Zero W with 5V 20 A Power Source and Ws812b Ledstrip with 300 LEDs. So it was time to connect to the TV. Using Hyperbian Alpha 10
I know most of you use a video capture device with loop. I did not want to spend more money and I had a spare HDMI splitter. I tried connecting it with my BTV device, which is a Android 9 Operating System with Apps like Netflix, TV, Movies, etc.. (similar to a fire TV stick) but the led did not light up with the images, I tried activating screen capture USB ( no device connected) and the other option of capturing device with those 2 options, but still did not work.
Spare HDMI splitter? it should be capable of HDCP, thats a safety copy protect protocol signal over HDMI, devices that are not equiped by this protocol and have not the feature of HDCP can not transmit/split DRM protected signals.
but the led did not light up with the images, I tried activating screen capture USB ( no device connected) and the other option of capturing device with those 2 options, but still did not work.
You can turn the DHCP address into static, by going mostly to LAN settings and see if the router recognizes the Raspi, then you can use the option to make it static by enabling the feature into the router.
I have found screen captures to be essential to the articles that I write, whether I'm describing something complicated or explaining how to do an activity, they allow readers to more easily follow along with what I am describing or seeing on my end.
One of the challenges I've faced, however, is that I am not always able to to capture the screen. For example, getting a screen capture when installing an OS or running a command-line-based system like ESXi or Microsoft's Server Core is difficult. I have tried to take manual photos of screens when screen captures are not possible, but my results are mediocre at best.
Recently I have being using a Dododuck 1080P Capture Card, an inexpensive HDMI video capture device which allows me to take screenshots regardless of the OS. In this article, I will look at this capture device, explain how I set it up, and discuss how it has been working out for me.
Over the last couple years, I have noticed a plethora of HDMI-to-USB devices entering the market, many of which have been at an attractive price point (many are under $20). These devices have an HDMI input and a USB output. You connect the device via the HDMI port to the physical system that you want to capture and plug a USB cord from the device to another system where you want to view the HDMI output. Although these inexpensive devices do not come with any software, there are a number of free software options available with which to display the HDMI output.
The Dododuck 1080P Capture Card also has an HDMI output port and basically passes the HDMI to a physical monitor as well as the USB port. At $25 on Amazon, it was priced slightly higher than a basic HDMI capture device, but I wanted the ability to use a physical monitor with it at the same time. It also has a DC/5V port but does not specify what it is used for.
At the time I purchased it, this device had 96 ratings on Amazon with an average rating of 3.5 stars. The company advertises the device as being compatible with Windows and MacOS, and states that it "works with most video capture software, such as for VLC, OBS, Amcap, etc. Wii U, PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Wii, Nintendo Switch, DVD, camera, ZOSI security." It has a maximum output resolution of 1920x1080@30Hz, and video-output modes of YUV and JPEG.
I connected an Intel NUC that was running Windows 10 into the device's HDMI input port, the USB output to my Dell laptop (also running Windows 10), and the HDMI output to a generic 1080P monitor. My laptop automatically detected the device as a "USB Composite Device," and installed the driver for it.
The device is advertised as being compatible with many different software packages. As Windows Camera was already installed on my laptop, I brought it up and cycled through the video sources (by clicking the camera icon in the upper right) until a test pattern appeared. In the app's settings, I noticed that the video quality was set to 1080p 16.9 30fps. I left the 3 x 3 grid enabled to distinguish it from an actual screen.
I rebooted the system again and began video recording in Windows Camera. While it was booting, when the "Press F2 to Enter BIOS Setup" screen should appear, a test screen was shown instead. I then rebooted the system again, this time continually pressing F2, and was then presented with a very clear BIOS screen.
I will investigate if there is a way to tweak it to be less fuzzy, but for now this Capture Card will work with what I am using it for: a low-cost way of capturing screens of installs and command-line systems for my articles.
Tom Fenton has a wealth of hands-on IT experience gained over the past 30 years in a variety of technologies, with the past 20 years focusing on virtualization and storage. He previously worked as a Technical Marketing Manager for ControlUp. He also previously worked at VMware in Staff and Senior level positions. He has also worked as a Senior Validation Engineer with The Taneja Group, where he headed the Validation Service Lab and was instrumental in starting up its vSphere Virtual Volumes practice. He's on X @vDoppler.
I have found that when I attempt to capture in 10-bits (i.e. the P010 pixel format) at UHD resolution I get odd artifacts across a middle band of the capture. At lower resolutions/bit-depth I do not get this issue. This suggests it occurs at higher bandwidth captures.
HI, @oviano 4k is quite a high resolution, with higher data rates its best to enable the high performace mode as you are doing, using jetson-clocks. An easy way to check whats maxing out is using jtop, it shows the usage on CPU, EMC and GPU. It also will depend on the encoding algorithm, ie if it uses CPU. The orin nx supports hardware encoding, so you can use that to offload some CPU usage if thats you bottleneck, for example with nvv4l2h264enc
It has to be a way. I have always wanted to use a mini PC (barebone) from conferences and classroom (connected via VGA/HDMI to a projector) while using mi Laptop or Windows Tablet as Main / Extension Monitor.
This would be an AMAZING gadget for anyone working in IT!
Making the laptop into a keyboard and mouse and display for a server, or switch, or what have you.
Or Raspberry PI for developers and tinkerers
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