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This is to you. I am definitely not addressing advancved and experienced video shooters. As opposed to cell phone videotaping, with a semi professional camera, one is forced to take so many decisions that it takes a lot of time to understand only the basics. It is just so overwhelming. You cannot just shoot. So what I want is to provide some information and decent baseline settings for those who just occasionally want to shoot video with Fujifilm.
My information is based on my X-T4, but certainly transferable to other contemporary Fujifilm camera models. Two and a half years ago, I did the same with my X-T20 (see A decent baseline for Fujifilm video recording (for video beginners)); in the meantime, I went for an X-T4, and I've also learned and practiced a bit more when it comes to video.
There is nearly infinite potential for further investments (camera cage, gimbal, external monitor, external recorder, yadayada), but an external mic and the ND filters are enough to produce really good footage.
The X-T4 offers a plethora of frame rates, and you are forced to take a decision for one of those. They come from different standards (the whole numbers come from the PAL standard, the decimal numbers come from NTSC), and the offering looks pretty confusing if you never concerned yourselves with frame rates. Of course, the higher the frame rate, the greater the memory demand.
The X-T4 offers different bit rates between 50 and 400 Mbit/s, the choice may be limited depending on other settings, and you are forced to take a decision for one of those. Of course, the bit rate directly influences storage requirements.
Difficult for me to give a recommendation. IT equipment wise (post treatment), you should be on the safe side with the MOV/H.264 LPCM. On the other hand, I have no problems with the H.265, at least with shorter sequences, and I don't have a high performance computer.
The X-T4 offers two different compression rates, and you are forced to take a decision for one of those. There are All Intra and Long GOP (stands for "long group of pictures"). All Intra is basically frame by frame recording. Long GOP makes a compromise, is more compressed and of course takes less storage space.
FLog is for the advanced videographs. FLog is about recording with flat colors (but you can display real colors while recording in the viewfinder) and more dynamic range, the colors being added in video post processing using LUTs available from Fujifilm. Stay away from FLog as a beginner. Stay with the film simulation.
But what film simulation to select? Of course it is a matter of taste. Many including me like those with the more moderate colors. Eterna, Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, to mention a few. Often, highlights and shadows are reduced, particularly important with the harsh Classic Chrome. I saved myself a few custom settings.
Movie optimized control is about deactivating all dials and also the aperture ring, and steering those and more parameters on the LCD screen. Beyond the obvious advantage, there is an invaluable advantage to all those who mix video and stills: you keep exposure the settings separate. In video mode, the dial and aperture ring settings play no role. As soon as you leave the video mode, the dials and the aperture ring settings apply. So you can really instantly change betweem video and stills by switching the lever under the ss dial.
For exposure setting, I always go fully manual. Always. I want to have a constant look, I want to have the full control over exposure. I determine my exposure parameters simply by looking into the viewfinder and looking at the histogram. I also use the zebras, I set them to 100 %, but I accept a blown out sky if I want to have the face in good light. Exposure setting comes basically down to the right ISO setting in combination with an ND filter, since the ss is given anyway, and since I mostly want to use apertures around f/2.8....4.
Very important to not leave it on auto. With auto WB, the camera may constantly change the WB as the scene slightly changes which does not look good in your footage. Select a preset (daylight) or do a custom WB. Movie optimized control as well as any video custom setting will remember this.
You have two parameters to set, tracking sensitivity and AF speed. The former is the "stickiness", how fast does the AF react to changes. As a standard, I recommend a high value (+4) which means high stickiness. When it comes to AF speed, I prefer a slow speed (-5, -4 or so) for as smooth as possible focus transitions.
Unfortunately, lenses behave very differently. Not all lenses make a smooth focus transition even if you set the AF speed to a negative value. I will not go too far into that, as I am really not a super experienced video shooter. But I can say I have good results with the XF 16-55, XF 18-55, XF 50/2. Also well usable are the XF 90/2, XF 23/2. This list is not complete. And it is just my opinion. On the other hand, the old ones with the slow and clumsy AF like the old 56/1.2 or the 35/1.4 are of limited value when it comes to video AF capabilities; BUT you of course can use them with manual focus or with care (I used the 35/1.4 very successfully in a more or less constant distance shooting). The Viltrox 23/1.4 does not really provide smooth transitions, according to my experience.
There is much more options and complexity. There is the possibility of utilizing the AF range limiter. There is the possibility of tapping on the LCD screen in different focus modes. There is the possibility to use MF. There is the possibility to use the AF On button. Really, complex.
One more, I recommend to not use the zoom ring during videotaping even with a zoom lens attached. It was one of my beginner's mistakes. Just don't do it. You will definitely not be able to zoom smoothly. Better zoom with your feet
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