How To Connect Ps4 Controller To Gta V Pc

[Karriem Drewery]

Whatdoes your setup look like? Where are the connectors running?

What is your tenant name (I can look on the backend).

When you say you think it is the controller not connecting - what did you find that made you think this? Logs? Can you share what you found?

Ok here is my problem with the new zwift play controllers.

My Left controller will not connect by bluetooth on my pc running windows 11.

During the start up of zwift it will see my wahoo kicker, heartrate monitor just fine.

Then I try to connect my play controllers in the steering section and it sees both controllers but will only connect to the right one. The Z on the controller will go from flashing blue to steady blue on the right one but the left one will continue to flash.

The steering section shows both controllers and the battery levels and I can check the boxes to select both controllers but it will just keep showing connecting.

I wanted to know if the bluetooth was a problem with the controller so I closed the zwift program on my laptop and opened the companion app on my table and was able to connect both controllers to the companion right away and could see that both controllers were up to date with firmware.

SO back to the zwift on the pc, still would not connect the left controller. I even went all the way to uninstall zwift from my PC and reinstall zwift again. Still same issue, left controller would not connect.

If it is a distance issue I do not believe it as right now I have both controllers sitting RIGHT NEXT to the PC.

Both controllers worked fine the first 3 times that I used them and it was with the last version of zwift as today I just got the new update zwift, so the problem is with the most current and the last version.

Kind of at a loss right now with these controller, loved them the 3 rides that I did get to use them but kind of a big disappointment now, and if I can not figure this out soon they are going back!

I just tried that and there is one heck of a lag time around 2-3 seconds from when I pressed a button and something happened.

But yes I was able to connect both controllers by using my tablet as a bridge but just not usable.

As soon as I went back to bluetooth thru the PC the problem came right back, the left controller will not connect and the Z just keeps flashing.

It is just odd that it will not connect thru the PC but I can see the battery level and the controller it self? I mean if I turn off the left controller the controller on the list of devices in the steering section will go away? So the PC and zwift is seeing the left controller it just will not finish the connecting process.

I had a similar issue where the left controller would not connect. Contacted Zwift help and they sent me an article relating to calibrating the play controllers. Note the article only says to calibrate if told to do so by Zwift. Anyhow, this seems to have fixed the connection issue I was having. Suggest you contact Zwift help for support.

I am currently having the same issues with the same symptoms as D Hardy. I have updated the firmware on the controllers. I have purchased a new USB hub and dongle to move the dongle closer to the controllers. I have tried both Windows 11 and Windows 10 versions on 2 different computers still without success. I have turned controllers on after Zwift program has booted without success. Initially, I had intermittent connection issues, then with the new USB hub, it seems to connect just like D Hardy describes in his email. The Zwift Play controllers show they are connected on the computer screen, the lights on the controller are both solid blue. I see the icon showing connection when I ride, but the controllers do not function. I am at a loss on what to do now for they simply will not work even though they show they are connected on either PC computer running WII or W10.

im hoping someone can help me here I have a 1983 le mans scalecitric track and I'm wondering how to connect the controller to the track. I have the classic controller with the red tab that connects underneath the track but I do not know where it clips in. I'm not sure am I missing a piece for this. Can someone please send me instructions on how this is connected to the track Or where exactly it clips in? Thanks

Good Morning, I'm afraid we do not have any Instruction Leaflets from 1983. However, the red rectangular plug with two copper contacts plugs into the underside of the track. One on each lane. The wires from these plugs go to the hand controllers and powerbase. These are hard-wired so nothing needs doing here.

On the underside of a straight track piece, about 1 foot long (350mm), you should find a moulded stamp of C160. On each lane you'll find a receiving rectangle for the red plug. Push the red plug in to this moulded rectangle and the two copper pins will nestle against the metal track rails. With the power turned on, put a car on the track and pull the trigger. The car might move backwards, in which case you should turn the car round or turn the red plug 180 degrees as per your 'direction of travel' preference.

One more thing, if you have lane change crossovers (not crossroads) always use these in pairs to make sure that a car on a lane can cross over to the other side of the track and then cross back again! I hope this helps.

How do you connect the remote to the power control unit. I can see the plug for underneath the track. But that leaves two wire. Do they go on the same side of the unit or do they go either side. This is a 1960's set. Thank you

I have controller W3200 and 4x AP124. I startup controller, gave it name, address ip, netmask, gateway, admin & enable password, country code, time etc. everything like is written in Quick Start Guide. I have access to the controller from web browser, and have acces via console. I didn't install any licences. I enable DHCP on controller, and this is the only DHCP service in my network.

Ad2) I have purchased licence with description "Policy Enforcement Firewall Module (16 AP Licence), but I don't install this licence, because I have only paper, and I don't know how to get this licence. Is it just this licence I have to install?

Ad2) I have purchased licence with description "Policy Enforcement Firewall Module (16 AP Licence), but I don't install this licence, because I have only paper, and I don't know how to get this licence. Is it just this licence I have to install?

Now I see access points in "AP Instalation" in "Provisioning" and "Campus AP Whitelist" tabs. I've tried to provision my AP, but it failed with error description about "invalid gain value". I'm using AP-ANT-16, with gain values 4.7 and 3.9. I found on forum, that WebUI doesn't accept value other then 0.5 step, so I change this values to 5.0 and 4.0 and I successfuly provision my AP.

I have a tp-link UB400 nano USB adapter that I am trying to use to pair an xbox one controller to my PC using Windows 10.

The adapter is working (I have the Bluetooth icon in my notification area, which I have it turned on and set to discoverable, when I go to add a device via it, my controller shows up in the discoverable devices, but when I go to pair it, it sits there until it times out and says that the connection failed.... and if I try to add a Bluetooth device through Windows it says that there is nothing there to connect.

I have gone through this guide from Microsoft yes my controller matches the bottom picture (X is surrounded by plastic separate from the shoulder buttons. When I push the button on top for it to enter into pairing mode ( the X flashes) " If I click the Bluetooth icon in my notification area and try and add a device there, it detects the Xbox controller, but when I go to pair, it says it's pairing for about a minute then ends up showing me and if I go under the Windows Bluetooth options it does not give me an "On/Off" slider underneath, and it shows me this whenever I click "Add Bluetooth Device"

It says that for Windows 8/8.1/10 its plug and play which had the above results, so I installed the driver manually from the website to the same results.

So what step did I miss?

Thank you.

Unplug the adapter and insert it into another USB slot, if that does not work, disable/enable the device in the device manager and try to pair it again. If the OS is Win 10 you do not need the driver.

The first image is the aerial view of the capture and the following images are the zoomed in versions of the traffic from left to right in aerial view. I really appreciate your insight to help me figure out whats going on and solve the problem.

Hi Archit,

Four thoughts:

1) In the window where you configure your target configuration in CCS, there is a button labelled 'Test Connection'. Can you press this button and provide its output results?

2) How far is the emulator from the C2000 device? Are both on the same board?

3) Would it be possible for you to provide a snippet from your schematics containing the emulator section, its JTAG connection to the C2000 device, and any other places where the JTAG nets go?

4) What is XRSn doing during this time & how are the boot-mode pins configured?

Based on the error being thrown, and the fact that there appears to be some kind of signalling from the C2000 side, I feel the TCK's return signal is somehow involved.

Thank you,

Brett

Hi Archit,

Thanks.

3) As you likely know, there are a fair amount of connections and components surrounding the FTDI chip. My suspicion is that your board is missing something minor. I may be able to spot it.

4) If the device is in the boot mode, Get Mode, you should see periodic pulsing on the XRSn pin in an unprogrammed device (which highlights the device is getting reset by the watchdog timer). This will prove the C2000 is alive, powered appropriately, etc.

I don't understand the full design rationale of the immediate xds100v2 emulation circuit, but I've gathered some things over time. I think A:R7 is responsible for feeding TCK back to the FTDI device as 'TCK return'. If there was large distance between the FTDI chip and the C2000 device, I believe it would be correct to have that TCK signal go all the way to the C2000 and back before feeding into the FTDI chip at pin 24 (to compensate for skew). For the distances you're working and the speeds being used, this likely shouldn't matter. That being said, even in your case A:R7's equivalent, in your design, would need to exist.

Hopefully this helps!

Thank you,

Brett

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