Six on Food: Kyushoku: The Making of a Japanese School Lunch; Food Justice; Maple Leaves Can Be a Crispy, Fried Snack; Amuse-Bouche; During the Jim Crow Era, Pig Intestines Were a Code
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"Our nation is a paradox, founded both on democratic, egalitarian ideals and on systematic practices of injustice and oppression—colonialism, slavery, genocide, and exploitation of labor, especially immigrant labor—that we have never fully confronted, repudiated, or made amends for.
Our food system is Exhibit A. Our supermarket shelves display an astonishing variety of food options, yet millions of our people are excluded from that abundance. Racial and economic privilege determine what kinds of food are available to us. Food justice advocates refer to this systematic stratification of our food choices as “food apartheid”.
These inequities will not just go away; we have to do the work of dismantling them, often in the face of opposition. A host of national and local organizations are engaged in food justice work, and UCS has collaborated with several of them, most notably through our partnerships with the HEAL Food Alliance and the Good Food for All Collaborative."
Unequal access and its consequences"
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"Why were chitlins designated “slave food”? Since one’s social status dictated which part of the animal they ate, slaves mostly dined on the trotters (feet), maw (stomach), and chitlins, all of which required intense cleaning. Wealthy people tended to eat the upper portions of leg and back, hence the affluence-denoting phrase “high on the hog.”
But it wasn’t just just necessity that led African-Americans to identify with eating chitlins. Western Africans cooked and ate every edible part of animals, so slaves viewed entrails as more than just scraps. These resourceful cooking techniques linger today, as Southerners continue to slow-cook or deep-fry chitlins with vinegar and hot sauce, serving it alongside collard greens and cornbread."
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