F710 Wireless Gamepad Driver

[Aiko Bartels]

Asof right now I have gone over the forum and found a few people are having some difficulties connecting their controllers to gSender for use. My goal is to find out what types of controllers you guys use, what the problems with them are, and how I further solve them. I know some of you guys really love using them to control your machines (as do i) and hope to help you guys out as best I can here!

I dont have a controller but would love to have one. Will Sienci be offering in the near future? If so, I will wait on it. If not, what can you recommend as the best possible controller for the longmill. I use windows 10 PC. Thank you.

When creating the gamepad support on gSender, I did in fact use the Logitech F710 gamepad for testing and it seemed to work fine for me. I did some tests by installing the latest version of gSender on a few other computers and connecting the controller to them to see if I was able to find any connection issues and was not able to find anything.

When connecting the Logitech controller for the first time on Windows 10, it installed the driver automatically, then gSender was able to recognize it when attempting to create a joystick/gamepad profile. These are the windows notifications I got when doing so:

You can double check that your controller is connected properly by checking the bluetooth and other devices settings and verifying your controller shows up in the list somewhere. Additionally you can check the device manager settings on your PC and see if your controller shows up there as well, which it should.

Would I be able to use my TM HOTAS joystick in connection with the Longmill as an offline controller? Or is this strictly for using software already present and using the controller/joystick as a jogging tool?

I do have a question, and that is to ask you for a bit of clarification. If you are asking if a game controller can replace the Long Mill controller, I am pretty sure that the answer is no. The Mill controller is comprised of an Arduino Uno control board, drivers for the motors and other control components. A joystick will not replace them.

However, gSender is capable of being controlled by joysticks and game controllers. They can take the place of the gui controls in on the gSender interface. The joystick may be able to be used to run gcode sender of choice. For example, I believe that UGS can accommodate joystick controllers.

I am simply wondering if, a joystick control with trigger switches, can be used in conjunction with the Longmill controller to add a more responsive and accurate jogger without being tied to any other program designed for CNC milling, or if the joystick and triggers can be set up with the Longmill controller to control the entirety of the Longmill from jogging through to milling without the need of any software.

I do quite enjoy the machine, and it is very accurate with small pieces provided the end mill is the correct size to application. It has been a very welcome addition alongside the plasma and laser cutters in my shop, and it get used almost as much.

@BrandonEvMc Sorry for the delay in replying, Brandon. Several members here are using joysticks/game controllers to control XY and Z movements. Higher up in this thread, @Megistus (Wayne) and @Menglor (Stephen) mention the ones that they are using and the software that they use with them. If you have a specific unit that you want to use and it is not one already mentioned, post the make and model and someone may well be able to set you up.

Yes thanks for pointing that one out, there does seem to be some inconsistencies with jog cancel needing to be invoked in certain situations. I have a few ideas on how to fix this problem now that I reviewed the implementation again, will test them out this week and update you and everyone else here on my progress!

I tried it again, but the F710 (in Direct Input mode) shows up was Logitech Wireless F710, and windows cant find any drivers for it. I have the Logitech software (4.60 i think) installed, but cant seem to find any drivers for it.

Logitech F710 (at least, the one I bought recently) seems to be buggy for old Windows versions (I tried 98se and 2000), so the receiver ignores the joystick mode switch and works in Xinput mode even when it is in DirecInput. But, after some experiments, I have found the way out: you should not only put the switch on the joystick in DirectInput mode but hold any button on it (for example: "X"), while inserting the receiver into the USB port, then it will work in DirectInput mode until you turn off your PC (works even after restart).

I just bought the Logitech F310 controller, when I had initially plugged it into my Windows XP machine, device manager had detected the model of the device but it wouldn't install drivers even when having it briefly connected to the internet. There is a switch on the bottom of the controller labelled X & D. If you're having issues trying to get it to work in Windows XP make sure the controller is in the D position, and you might have to unplug it first put it into the D position then plug it back in, and Windows XP should detect it as a Logitech Dual Action device. I don't have a 98 system to test it on but if you have the controller in the D position you might be able to use some older Logitech game controller drivers and it might work.

The Logitech F310 and it's predecessor with the same design are my go-to gamepads for Windows/Linux. The F310 has been recently discontinued in favor of it's wireless replacements, so grab one or more, while stock is available.

It was put on clearance in physical retail stores some time ago, before being marked as "no longer available" through website purchases and when I checked with Logitech after finding it to be unavailable for purchase on their website, they said it was being discontinued in favor of the F710. Some retailers have large amounts of them in their warehouses, which is why the price is now so low and other retailers have removed it entirely from their listings.

Interesting. I wonder what possible reason could be for making this move now, considering the fact that it's been running in parallel with F710 for over a decade, while the F510 had been discontinued rather quickly.

The DAGP, F310, F510, and F710 all use the same parts (same design platform). If I had to say why the F510 went away, it's because Rumble wasn't a feature that people necessarily wanted and the demand for the parts required to implement it is driven by the console control manufacturing, as it is a standard feature in console controllers and games. So, dumping the F510 was good business, as it was more expensive to make than the F310 and likely the F710 as well, if not equivalent in manufacturing cost. Replacing the DAGP with the F310 was just a slightly updated design and coloring switch. Moving from the F310/F510 to the F710 makes some sense because more and more gamers are using laptops, with a dwindling number of USB ports and the keyboard/mouse side of the industry has also moved (almost entirely) to wireless, particularly in Logitech's portfolio, so the discontinuation of the wired products certainly makes sense when you account for that, as the Logitech products share the same wireless hardware in their construction, which means cheaper manufacturing cost from buying in large quantities.

I'm aware that the Logitech F-series are slightly updated versions of the classic Dual Action (F310) / Rumblepad 2 (F510) / Cordless Rumblepad (F710). The new pads even identify as the old ones when in DirectInput mode. In addition to adding XInput support and colored buttons to match the Xbox 360 scheme, Logitech also changed the analog stick sockets from squarish to round, and increased the dead zones. Boy, did the last part get many players upset.

There is actually an older version of the Logitech Dual Action - with a different style d-pad, and no d-pad / left analog switch button (along with a couple of cosmetic differences). You can see both side-by-side here. I wonder if any other Logitech pads had used that d-pad design.

I can confirm that LGS v4.60 works for the F310 in Win98SE, and LGS v5.10 works under WinXP. I imagine it works for the F710 as well. I do miss the rumble but "quality of life" seems easier on the F310 so I may purchase a second as a backup.

Guys i have a logitech f710 wireless controller and i have a lot of problems with windows 10.

I have a modded driver unsigned that is working well.

Problem is that i have to have secure boot off and driver signature enforcement off everytime i boot.

Can they be signed so i dont have to do that every time?

Or a workaround to not check those drivers only?

Thanks i have uploaded the drivers.

@ektorasdj :

Since your request is driver related and not completely off-topic, I have moved it into the "Other Drivers" Sub-Forum.

Now to your question: Yes, it is possible to give your modded driver a digital signature, but - to avoid copyright violation problems with Microsoft - I will not do it for you.

You or anyone else should keep in mind, that the related driver

a) has been compiled by Microsoft and not by Logitech and

b) as being part of the OS Win10 has no associated own digital signature (no *.cat file).

So to be able to sign the driver, the related person has to create a new *.cat file and put its name into the *.inf file as shown here:

@Fernando

Hello thanks for answering me! I understand and thank you for helping with my problem.

I gave up with these drivers because nothing fixes the problem my controller exhibits.

I bought an usb hub that turns on and off individually the usb ports and for now i get around my problem.

Well, tonight I tried switching the joypad driver from xinput to dinput. The gamepad immediately started to respond, correctly in the retroarch menu, and not so correctly in- game. The analog stick up/ down were switched in mupen64plus, and start and select were switched in all the NES cores I tried. But so far it is a step forward.

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