City Of Darkness - Life In Kowloon Walled City (1993).pdf
Kuldip Mansager
City of Darkness: Life in Kowloon Walled City (1993)
Kowloon Walled City was a remarkable phenomenon: a densely populated, self-governing enclave within Hong Kong that existed outside the law and the control of the authorities. For decades, it was home to tens of thousands of people who built their own homes, businesses, schools, temples, and clinics in a labyrinth of narrow alleys and towering buildings. It was also a notorious hub of crime, vice, and squalor, where triads, drug dealers, prostitutes, and unlicensed doctors thrived.
In 1993, after years of negotiations and planning, the Walled City was finally demolished and its residents relocated to public housing estates. But before that happened, two photographers, Greg Girard and Ian Lambot, spent four years documenting the life and culture of this unique community. Their book, City of Darkness: Life in Kowloon Walled City (1993), is a rare and fascinating glimpse into a world that no longer exists.
In this article, we will explore some of the aspects of the Walled City that made it so remarkable: its history, its architecture, its social organization, its economy, and its spirituality. We will also look at some of the challenges and controversies that surrounded its existence and its eventual clearance. Finally, we will reflect on the legacy and impact of the Walled City on Hong Kong and beyond.
The History of Kowloon Walled City
The origins of Kowloon Walled City date back to the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), when China ceded Hong Kong Island to Britain after the First Opium War (1839-1842). In order to protect its interests on the mainland, China built a fort on a small hill in Kowloon Peninsula in 1847. The fort was surrounded by a wall with six gates and four watchtowers. It housed a small garrison of soldiers and officials who administered the area.
However, China's control over Kowloon was short-lived. In 1860, after the Second Opium War (1856-1860), China ceded Kowloon Peninsula to Britain as well. The British did not interfere with the fort at first, but in 1898 they leased the New Territories from China for 99 years. The lease included the area around the fort, which became known as Kowloon Walled City. The British offered to buy out the Chinese residents of the fort, but most of them refused to leave. The British then decided to leave them alone as long as they did not cause trouble.
As a result, the Walled City became a lawless zone where neither British nor Chinese authority applied. It attracted refugees, squatters, criminals, and outcasts who sought shelter and freedom from persecution. Over time, the population grew rapidly as more people moved in and built makeshift structures on top of each other. The original wall was gradually demolished or incorporated into the buildings. By 1940, there were about 10,000 people living in the Walled City.
The situation changed again after World War II (1939-1945), when Japan occupied Hong Kong. The Japanese invaders razed most of the Walled City to make way for an airstrip. Many residents fled or were killed during the war. After Japan's surrender in 1945, Hong Kong was returned to Britain. The Walled City was left in ruins, but soon people began to return and rebuild their homes.
In 1948, China became a communist state under Mao Zedong. Many Chinese nationalists and anti-communists fled to Hong Kong and sought refuge in the Walled City. They were joined by other migrants who escaped from poverty or political turmoil in mainland China. The Walled City became a haven for dissidents and rebels who opposed both British colonialism and Chinese communism.
The population of the Walled City exploded in the 1950s and 1960s as more people crammed into the limited space. The buildings became taller and denser, reaching up to 14 stories high. The streets became narrower and darker, some only one meter wide. The Walled City became known as the "City of Darkness" because of its lack of natural light and ventilation. It also lacked basic amenities such as water supply,
sanitation, electricity, or fire safety. Water had to be collected from communal taps or wells. Electricity was illegally tapped from nearby buildings or power lines. Fire was a constant threat that could engulf the whole city in minutes. The Walled City was also plagued by diseases, rats, cockroaches, and garbage.
Despite these harsh conditions, the Walled City also developed a vibrant and resilient community that adapted to its environment and created its own order and culture. The residents formed mutual aid associations, neighborhood committees, religious groups, and social clubs to provide services and support to each other. They also established their own schools, clinics, temples, shops, restaurants, factories, and entertainment venues to meet their needs and desires. The Walled City was a hive of activity and creativity that defied the norms and expectations of the outside world.
The Architecture of Kowloon Walled City
The architecture of Kowloon Walled City was a result of both necessity and ingenuity. The residents had to make use of every inch of space and every available material to construct their homes and workplaces. They also had to cope with the lack of planning, regulation, and infrastructure that characterized the Walled City. The result was a chaotic but functional urban landscape that reflected the diversity and dynamism of its inhabitants.
The buildings in the Walled City were mostly made of concrete, brick, wood, metal, and plastic. They were built on top of each other without any regard for alignment, symmetry, or aesthetics. They often encroached on the streets or the airspace above them, creating a maze of corridors and passages that connected the different levels and sections of the city. The buildings were also constantly modified and extended by their owners or tenants to accommodate their changing needs and preferences.
The interior of the buildings was equally varied and improvised. The rooms were small and cramped, often measuring less than 10 square meters. They were divided by thin walls or curtains into living spaces, sleeping areas, kitchens, bathrooms, workshops, or storage spaces. They were furnished with simple or salvaged items such as beds, tables, chairs, cabinets, stoves, sinks, toilets, fans, lights, radios, TVs, or refrigerators. They were also decorated with personal belongings such as photos,
posters, paintings, or religious symbols. The rooms were also connected by wires, pipes, cables, or ducts that provided water, electricity, or ventilation.
The exterior of the buildings was equally diverse and eclectic. The facades were covered with signs, banners, billboards, or graffiti that advertised the various businesses or activities that took place inside. The roofs were used as gardens, playgrounds, laundry areas, or storage spaces. The walls were also punctured by windows, balconies, air conditioners, or antennas that added to the visual complexity and variety of the cityscape.
The Social Organization of Kowloon Walled City
The social organization of Kowloon Walled City was based on a combination of kinship, ethnicity, occupation, religion, and mutual interest. The residents formed various groups and networks that provided them with identity, solidarity, protection, and assistance. They also developed their own norms and values that governed their behavior and interactions.
One of the most important social units in the Walled City was the family. Many residents lived with their relatives or spouses in the same room or building. They shared resources and responsibilities and supported each other in times of need. They also maintained ties with their extended families or clans who lived elsewhere in Hong Kong or mainland China. Some families also adopted or fostered children who were orphaned or abandoned in the Walled City.
Another important social unit was the ethnic group. The majority of the residents were Cantonese speakers who originated from Guangdong province in southern China. They formed the dominant culture and language of the Walled City. However, there were also other ethnic groups who lived in the Walled City, such as Hakka, Chiu Chow, Shanghainese, Fujianese, Vietnamese, Indians, Pakistanis, Nepalese, and Filipinos. They often clustered together in certain areas or buildings and maintained their own customs and traditions.
A third important social unit was the occupation group. The residents engaged in a wide range of occupations that reflected their skills,
interests, or opportunities. They included factory workers, shopkeepers, restaurateurs, hawkers, tailors, carpenters, electricians, plumbers, mechanics, barbers, dentists, doctors, teachers, artists, musicians, actors, gamblers, drug addicts, prostitutes, and triad members. They often formed guilds, unions, cooperatives, or syndicates to regulate their trades and protect their rights and interests. They also competed or cooperated with each other to survive and prosper in the Walled City.
A fourth important social unit was the religious group. The residents practiced various religions and beliefs that gave them meaning and guidance in their lives. They included Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity, Islam, Hinduism, Sikhism, and folk religions. They built temples, churches, mosques, shrines, and altars to worship their gods and ancestors. They also celebrated festivals, rituals, ceremonies, and rites to mark important occasions and events.
A fifth important social unit was the mutual interest group. The residents formed various groups and clubs based on their hobbies, passions, or causes. They included sports teams, chess clubs, singing groups, drama troupes, martial arts schools, political parties, social movements, and charities. They organized activities and events to entertain themselves and others. They also expressed their opinions and voices on various issues and matters that concerned them.
The Economy of Kowloon Walled City
The economy of Kowloon Walled City was largely informal and underground. The residents did not pay taxes or rent to the government or the landowner. They also did not follow any laws or regulations that governed their businesses or transactions. They operated on a cash basis and relied on personal trust and reputation. They also exploited the loopholes and opportunities that the Walled City offered them.
The Walled City was a hub of manufacturing and commerce that catered to both local and external markets. The residents produced a variety of goods such as clothing,
Conclusion
Kowloon Walled City was a unique and remarkable phenomenon that defied conventional wisdom and expectations. It was a city within a city that existed outside the law and the control of the authorities. It was a city of darkness that was also a city of light. It was a city of chaos that was also a city of order. It was a city of despair that was also a city of hope.
Kowloon Walled City was also a living and breathing community that adapted to its environment and created its own culture and identity. It was a community of diversity and resilience that embraced its differences and challenges. It was a community of creativity and innovation that generated its own solutions and opportunities. It was a community of solidarity and cooperation that supported and cared for each other.
Kowloon Walled City was finally demolished in 1993 and its residents relocated to public housing estates. It was replaced by a park that commemorates its history and legacy. But the memory and spirit of the Walled City lives on in the hearts and minds of its former inhabitants and admirers. It also serves as an inspiration and a lesson for anyone who seeks to understand the complexity and possibility of human society.
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