[Tiny Png Photoshop Plugin 26
Christel Malden
I wanted to know what the best way to save a JPG to be very small and still keep its quality as much as possible. I have 1200x1200 psd files that when I save them while keeping quality the jpg is around 500kb. I used to save them as JPG 10 which is maximum and changed it to 5 that is medium, I think anything less than that and the quality is bad. Is there any third party software that shrinks? Preferably as a Photoshop plugin like JPEGmini Pro and tinyPNG promise they do, script or action or any other Photoshop method to shrink it?
We can see that we can reduce the size of this non-destructively compressed photo from 5 MB down to 33 kB with highly compressed JPEG format. A compression down to 88 kB still is fairly tolerable in this case. These levels of compression as well as the amount of artifacts will be much fewer in images with large flat spaces or geometrical content.
When I shoot the pano, the drone shows it already like a tiny planet, but if I download it on my pc it is like distorted flat panorama. Also, it is in jpeg, the raw files are avaible in another folder but they are not stitched.
Then I noticed that the jpeg pano stitched by the drone is in 2:1 proportion, and there is a fake sky added (it can't shoot upwards because of the props), so i reseized the canvas to 2:1 and added more sky, and this is the result:
I wonder if you are expecting too much from a one click solution? I managed this with one click (2010 Shanghai) but I would have experimented with the starting end points, as well as aspect ratio and vertical position before applying Polar Coordinates. If you are chasing a more controlled result, then consider taking multiple steps to achieve it. Think in terms of a composite.
If anyone could give you a better answer, then it would be Russell Brown, who has some excellent, and really quite clever, tips and tricks for processing DJI /Go Pro panoramas. Think of the links below as a starting point, and work your way through the videos on the side bar. I thought I knew how to do this stuff, but I learned a ton watching these.
By applying the effect to the jpeg pano made by the drone, I obtained the wanted result in one click, and the raw images are exactly the same image only separated in more files. The problem is in the way that Photoshop stitches the image, it seems that the bottom part is cropped and missing, so the solution may be in using another program to stitch. You have the same problem in your image... That's not a wrong thing but it's simply not what I want in this case.
In photoshop, I opened the raw stitched panorama, then added over it the jpeg pano, with 50% opacity. Then I lined up the raw image with the jpeg, and ended up with a blank space at the bottom. Then proceded as before with the effect: this is the result.
We will start by choosing our background plate. This is the dog photo. It will become the canvas where we assemble everything together. If you need to clean the plate, such as remove destractions in the background etc, now is a great time to do it. Also do any of your retouching and compositing the build the plate.
Use Layer masks to hide different parts of the photos to make it look like they are behind objects. (The photos are already cut out at this stage, you are using the masks to blend the people into the scene). Also use jaggy brushes to make it look like the feet are buried in fur. You can also use tiny sized brushes to paint in fur on the masks.
In this step you can use curves adjustment layers to match the images, or use levels. Make sure that the darks and lights match on each photo. (Tip: Use a Black an White Adjustment layer to hide the color for a moment so you can see the tones (luminosity) better).
Make sure the saturation matches the photos (Saturation is the amount of color). Use a hue saturation adjustment layer for this and adjust the amount of saturation. Also adjust the hue (color) if you need to. Here is a tutorial on how to perfectly match colors across different photos in photoshop.
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This comparison page does show some alternatives. I personally use ImageOptim, but it doesn't seem to have the same preview UI and I just use blind. I know Photoshop's Save for Web stuff lets you configure PNGs a bit, but I don't know how well it compares.
ImageOptim does tend to take quite a while as it seems to run through various ways to try to reduce the size. Note that he default settings don't use any lossy compression for PNG, so if the others are doing that it will definitely affect the results quite a bit. It looks like ImageAlpha is lossy by default. Personally I keep all my PNGs lossless and just use JPEG if I want something lossy, but I guess this may depend on your usage of alpha transparency in the image. It also seems like PNGCrush isn't enabled by default, but I'm less clear on the tradeoffs there.
Yeah, I spoke to the developer of ImageAlpha. He considers the project "dead" as it was written in Python 2. He is leaving it up there for now and as long as the OS supports it your computer should be able to run it. Furthermore, he suggests using Squoosh going forward. I like the two main contributor surma and jakearchibald of Squoosh (and their YouTube show will be dearly missed), I don't like that it isn't native.
I can't tell from tinypng.com's site if their plugin compresses any more than the web interface. I'm guessing it would be the same, but their plugin isn't M1 processor compatible yet, so I can't try it.
Using the Tiny Png web interface, my files come in at 34KB and 9KB for photo.png and text.png respectively. Not quite as small as I Love Img, ImageAlpha in this particular case. What helps give ImageAlpha an edge is that I can manually reduce the number of colors.
I recently purchased a new Yoga 2 Pro with a gorgeous 3200 x 1800 display. My main purposes for this device was to do some heavy lifting on the the road with many of my professional applications. I was quickly discouraged when I first fired up Fireworks, Photoshop, Dreamweaver, and Illustrator to find that I needed a magnifying glass to see simple menu options.
Now comes the fun part. You will just have to copy your manifest file to all of the application folders that you would like to change the scaling on. For example, Photoshop.exe is located at: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CS6 (64 Bit) and I created a manifest file in text editor named photoshop.exe.manifest to place in that folder.
Now place this file in the same directory as your executable. All of the ones listed above are are in pretty straight forward locations like C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe or C:\Program Files\Adobe.
Also, when I edit DWORD by changing it to decimal and I click OK, I go back to make sure it has changed and reverts back to Hex. Is this normal when I go back to the DWORD window, or is it supposed to stay on decimal?
Thank you SO much, this worked just right and you had excellent instructions. Shame on you Adobe, for making things so hard, but Bravo Bravo to you Dan for helping us all in such a simple way, when one considers the immense headache this has been giving SO many people.
Hi Dan, I just used the above to get my copy of Photoshop CS5 to look right on my new 4k screen HP. However, the bridge software that comes with it still looks like ants and I didnt see a link for it. I also cant find the program files for it by following the same path as above. Can you help?
Thank you for this tip. This sounds like a great solution for the programs mentioned, but will it work for other apps with similar scaling problems (like Microsoft Streets & Trips and Quicken)? If so, do I just rename the manifest file and place it in the same directory as the corresponding executable file? Are any other changes required in the manifest file.
I just got my Dell xps 15 and ran into this frustrating problem, I had given up all hope until I found this solution, so thank you! I did notice that I had to reboot my system for the changes to take effect, so if anyone is not seeing it work right away, definitely try restarting.
Figured out that I needed to specify in windows that Notepad should be used to open the Photoshop.exe.manifest file. For any newbies like me = save it as a .txt file. Fixed it just fine. (Sorry, new to registry edits)
I am wondering for the adobe programs with space in the name ei: after effects, flash builder, content viewer, media encoder, widget browser, premier pro
Do you name the file aftereffects.exe.manifest
Or
after effects.exe.manifest
thank you so much for this now i have got my adobe working. However i just cant get it working on autodesk maya at all, do you know where exactly should i place the file and what name do i need to change it to? thank you
1) If the app launches properly. There is something wrong with the external manifest procedure.
2) If the app runs the same error as with the manifest file. There is something wrong with your applications install.
Mac is either also lagging behind, or Adobe is. I am a digital illustrator and graphic designer. I have had NO problem using Adobe software until now. I have been using Illustrator and Photoshop since Illustrator 88 and Photoshop 1, and I use CS5.5 about 12 hours a day.
I use a 27-inch monitor in both cases. The older iMac is set to 19201080 and still looks sharp. Unfortunately, reducing the monitor resolution on the higher-res Retina monitor creates distortions and halos, so that is not an option and I had to leave it alone.
Brad S., yes the software is old, but they still sell it. CS6 clearly has a bug in that it reports being DpiAware when it very evidently is not. If nothing else, Adobe could fix that flag in their CS6 applications so that this work-around their error was no longer needed.
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