Shf Iron Man Mark 6 Battle Damage

[Josefa Palsgrove]

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Unlike previous suits, the Mark 50 has a sleeker design and is more dominantly red, with gold and hints of silver. The suit was first introduced during the battle of New York in Avengers Infinity War. During the battle, Iron Man engages in a bitter fight with Ebony Maw and his goons. The battle caused extensive damage around the suit, which we've tried to capture on this bust.

In addition to the new sleek design, the Mark 50 was the first suit to have nano-booster wings. These wings offered extra stability during flight so that Tony could have better control over the suit. The Queen Studios Iron Man Mark 50 also comes with detachable nano-booster wings and the newest version of the arc reactor that can be displayed fully lit. The base has a simlar design to the overall suit, all the curves are in the right places to add the final element that makes this bust one of a kind.

Iron Man Mark 85, as seen in Marvel Studios' \"Avengers: Endgame,\" gets a new MAFEX action figure, this time with battle damage! This figure completely reproduces Iron Man Mark 85's beaten, battered appearance after he activates the Nano Gauntlet, with weathering and damage to the armor's plating. In addition to the helmeted head, two different Tony Stark head sculpts are included, digitally painted to reflect Tony's weary expresssion. Interchangeable hands and a movable stand are also included. Order him for your own collection today!

Iron Man Mark 85, as seen in Marvel Studios' "Avengers: Endgame," gets a new MAFEX action figure, this time with battle damage! This figure completely reproduces Iron Man Mark 85's beaten, battered appearance after he activates the Nano Gauntlet, with weathering and damage to the armor's plating. In addition to the helmeted head, two different Tony Stark head sculpts are included, digitally painted to reflect Tony's weary expresssion. Interchangeable hands and a movable stand are also included. Order him for your own collection today!

Japanese Original Edition, Brand New Figure

Get ready to add the battle-damaged Iron Man Mark 85 from "Avengers: Endgame" to your action figure collection! This MAFEX figure captures Iron Man's battle-worn appearance after using the Nano Gauntlet, with realistic weathering and damage to the armor's plating. With two different Tony Stark head sculpts included, as well as interchangeable hands and a movable stand, you'll have plenty of display options to choose from. Don't miss out on the chance to own this highly-detailed and faithful representation of the iconic character! Order now!

Inspired by the big moments in Avengers: Endgame, Sideshow, and Hot Toys are excited to present the sixth scale collectible figure battle damaged version of Iron Man Mark LXXXV as the latest addition to the ever-expanding Marvel Cinematic Universe lineup.

Meticulously crafted based on Tony Stark/Iron Man in the movie, the one-of-a-kind collectible figure features two interchangeable head sculpts including a newly developed head sculpt with battle damage and an interchangeable helmeted head with LED-light up function. The Iron Man armor has been faithfully reproduced with red, gold and charcoal grey coloring featuring battle damage and weathering effects, LED light-up functions scattered throughout the upper body, back and Arc Reactor on chest, a battle-damaged sixth scale Nano Gauntlet as seen in the movie equipped with LED light-up function and matching interchangeable hands mounted with all six Infinity Stones, an energy blade, a pair of claw blasters and a highly elaborated rock diorama dynamic figure stand.

Inspired by the big moments in Avengers: Endgame, Hot Toys is excited to present today the battle damaged version of 1/6th scale Iron Man Mark LXXXV collectible figure as the latest addition to the ever-expanding Marvel Cinematic Universe lineup.

Accessories:

- One (1) damaged Nano Gauntlet with three (3) pieces of interchangeable hands including relax, gesture hand and hand with articulated fingers, mounted with six Infinity Stones (6 LED light-up points, battery operated)

- Specially designed rock themed diorama dynamic figure stand

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The Kids Nation series that boasts an intricate sculpt, detailed paintwork and even an LED light-up effect has a battle damaged version of Iron Man Mark XLII joining the line-up! The damage effect is based on the damage he took during his battle with Ultron in the Avengers: Age of Ultron film. Both his eyes and the arc reactor on his chest are fitted with LED light-up effects. Be sure you don't miss out on this limited edition item!

To apply the paint to the miniature, use the foam as a stamp: press it straight down, applying some pressure, and lift it straight up. You want to avoid smearing the paint onto the model at all, as that will ruin the effect. Repeat this several times, getting more paint on the foam as needed. You want to rotate the foam or use a different part of the torn edge for each stamp, to avoid repeating the same pattern. Try to concentrate the paint chips along areas where you would expect the most damage, such as around bolts and on edges, and around the feet and arms.

Go back with a brush to sharpen the effect created in step 3. Using the same color of paint (but now thinning it as you normally would) and a fine brush (such as a #1), add more damage to areas such as edges of armor plates. At this stage you can also join together some of the chips created in step 3 where you want larger chips. This is also a good time to add damage to areas which are difficult to reach with the foam. The reason to go back with a brush is it provides a much greater degree of control, which allows you to concentrate damage in particular areas, such as edges.

At this stage you can also highlight some of the larger chips with a lighter color, such as GW Dark Flesh, or P3 Bloodstone with just a drop of black. To highlight a chip, paint the lighter color in the middle of the chip, leaving the darker color around the edges. You want it to look like the darker area is recessed back from the surrounding surface, and so the edges of it will be in shadow.

Tip from the pros: this is a great way to hide imperfections in the sculpt or casting, or mold-lines you missed while cleaning. Just put a paint chip right where the imperfection is, and nobody will be able to see it!

Highlight the paint underneath the chips created in steps 3 and 4. Go back to your base-coat or highlight color (for my Deathripper, that was Cryx Bane Highlight) with a fine brush (such as a #1), and paint thin line highlights underneath each of the chips.

You want the highlight to be a bit lighter than the surrounding area, so use your base-coat color, highlight color, or a lighter version of your highlight color depending on whether the color around the chip you are highlighting is your shade color, your base-coat color, or your highlight color.

To really sell the effect that the paint has chipped and the underlying metal has rusted, paint rust marks running down from the chip, and subtle glazes of a rust color in the areas around the chips. Begin with several very thin glazes of a rust color (such as P3 Bloodstone) over limited areas centered on the larger chips. Then, paint several very thin vertical lines running down from the larger chips to simulate rust drips.

One should always give credit where credit is due. I learned this technique in a painting class with Todd Swanson, who used it on his Slayer-Sword-winning Festus. The steps above are exactly as he taught them.

Weathering using the blister foam technique is very effective for painted areas, like the gray parts of the Deathripper. However, the metals still look completely undamaged. To fix this, they must be weathered to match the rest of the armor. That is the goal of this second technique, which will leave the metals looking beaten and corroded. As metal is much more durable than paint, much less weathering is needed, so this technique will be much faster than the first one.

Just as with the first technique, before painting on damage, begin painting as you normally would: base-coat, shade, and highlight. (Shading and highlighting is just as important with metallic paints as it is with non-metallic paints.)

After step 1, the Deathripper looks exactly as it did at the end of the first technique. Here, the iron areas were painted with GW Chainmail, given a wash of matte medium + P3 Thamar Black + P3 Traitor Green, then shaded with thin glazes of Thamar Black and highlighted with Chainmail. The brass areas were base-coated with a mix of approximately equal parts Chainmail, P3 Blighted Gold, and P3 Molten Bronze, then shaded with matte medium + Thamar Black + P3 Bloodstone, using two-brush blending to smooth the transitions. But each person has their own favorite recipes for painting metals, and the techniques I describe can be combined with any of them (even if you prefer to paint your metals with non-metallic paints using NMM).

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