Scale length for amp in case guitars

[silvertonemike]

Hello Silvertonians

Does anyone know the correct scale lengths for the 1448 and 1457 amp
in case guitars?

I've been searching and I'm finding some conflicting information. I
know the 1448 is a so called short scale, but is the scale really
shorter, or did a few of the higher frets just get deleted making it a
shorter neck? I have a thrashed 1457 and I'm looking for a trashed out
1448, or other short scale silvertone guitar.

Anyone know the difference in scale??

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Until next time,

Silvertonemike

[Indr...@aol.com]

Sivertonemike,

 

My 1457 is right at 25" from bridge to nut.  I've never owned a 1448, so I'm not sure about those, but my understanding is that they truly do have a shorter scale length.  I'm sure someone else can weigh in with one in hand to measure.

 

Regards,

 

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[Michael Pacheco]

Thanks for the reply,

 

The latest information I found puts the1448 scale at 23.5". I still don't know for sure. I'd like to get my hands on one and compare. I've been looking around but it seems even beat up 1448's are getting pricey. Who knew in the mid sixties that these would even last for over forty years much less become popular all over again. A good, simple design will always stand the test of time.

 

SilvertoneMike

[Indr...@aol.com]

In general, from what I've read, you'd might be happier with a 1457.  Longer scale, better intonation, two pickups.  But whatever you decide they are wonderful little guitars, so good luck on your search. 

 

I recently wired a new switch into my 1457.  Talk about an experience.  I opened it up and didn't have the slightest idea what was going on.  I assumed it would have the usual SPDT On-On-On switch.  No-sir-ee, apparently, whoever was making them (Danelectro?) had a bunch of SPDT On-Off-On switches left over from building single pickup guitars, so they decided not to waste them.  This resulted in one of the weirdest switching systems I've ever seen.  Down is bridge pickup; Middle is both pickups in series (sort of like a humbucker with the coils spread 3 inches apart); and Up is neck pickup.

 

I finally had to draw a full schematic and trace the flow to figure out what they were doing.  Then I had to find an On-Off-On switch, which must not be in great demand for low-voltage applications.  I finally had to settle on one that was built heavier than I'd like.  But it works.

 

Regards,

Travis

[Michael Pacheco]

Hi Travis,

 

I have a beat up rattle can painted 1457 that I got years ago and it really is a great guitar. I like the neck and even the skate key tuners work pretty good. I haven't had any tuning problems as long as I keep decent heavy gauge strings on it. I adjusted the bridge and the neck angle just how I like it. It's nice to be able to do this without adding a neck shim. The intonation is fine even with just the single rosewood bridge saddle.

 

I'm glad you mention the switch. I'm having a problem with mine and it may need to be replaced. Sometimes it will turn on the bridge pickup, sometimes not. If bumped just right, the whole guitar is off. I don't see a bad connection, it may be a ground issue, not sure yet.

 

I traded away my excellent condition amp case many years ago to a friend that had a pristine red burst 1457 guitar. I miss that amp because it was reliable and sounded really good, but it went to a good home.

 

I'm really just looking for a neck for a short scale project. I don't want to tear apart a perfectly good 1448 so I'm looking for something kinda trashed.

 

Thanks for the details about the selector switch. This will be very helpful.

 

SilvertoneMike

[Indr...@aol.com]

SilvertoneMike,

 

In my case, the switch had similar symptoms as yours, with the exception of the "whole guitar off" thing.  My issues were definitely inside the switch.  I didn't attempt to pull it apart to try to see if I could fix it.  Just replaced it.  I think these switches just flat wear out.  Good luck with yours.

 

Travis