The grinding isn't quick, and I wondered if the stone is fouled with the
swarf or glazed or whatever. Not having a brick or sidewalk that I would
consider flat, I stuck some 80 grit sandpaper on glass (the green
background in the photo) and rubbed the stone on that. Indeed rubbing
for 30 seconds or so seems to do some good. I see more metal in the oil,
but this doesn't last long.
Coarse Crystolon is supposed to "the fastest cutting oil stones", but
how fast is fast?
--
Anthony Carrico
Your explanations about wear bevels and back bevels on plane blades are
very convincing, but they leave me scratching my head when it comes to
chisels.
As I'm sure you've read, Leonard Lee says, "if you did not first lap the
chisel but devoted your attention only to the bevel, regardless of how
well you honed that bevel, it would still be intersecting with a grooved
face and the resulting edge would be ragged." This makes sense, but you
say not to flatten the back ("face" in Lee's terminology), so what do
you actually do to the back of your chisels?
I can understand that trying to get rid of a hallow that is back from
the edge is foolish, but I can't imagine you do nothing to the back and
leave the factory grind as one half of your edge. Do you hone (with 15u
paper to start, for example) a small area near the edge, essentially a
very slight, almost zero degree, back bevel?
--
Anthony Carrico