Whole buncha questions...
paircon01
First, may your new year be the best ever...
Now to the important stuff...
On a whim, I purchased some marble tile to use rather than glass...for
several reasons. The main one...I am a total klutz and will likely not
drop a four pound marble tile. The question..is marble sufficiently
smooth to work in lieu of glass?
Next...ironically, SHOPNOTES had a similar article at about the same
time FINE WOODWORKING carried Brent's article. Concepts identical,
executioin identical, details somewhat different. The SHOPNOTE guru
suggested using plain ole woodworking sandpaper (80 and 120 grit IIRC)
to establish the initial bevel and then plain ole wet/dry from 160 to
2000 grit (again IIRC, the article is upstairs and I feel lazy this
AM). He uses a 25 and 30 degree microbevel. Any thoughts on the
different approach? I am more of a hobbyist than avocationalist so the
devil IS in the details for me...
Third issue that is vexing me. While I do have a number of Western
style chisels...mostly Marples Blue Chip, I also have a number of
Japanese laminated blade chisels. Neither article addresses the latter
from either techique or "angle"...although I have never really felt
that 25 soft wood, 28-30 degree hardwood was different Occident to
Orient. That said, I would appreciate some comment on any difference
needed for the Japanese chisels, if any.
Fourth issue...could you comment on modifying the technique for
sharpening other edges...for instance fine kitchen knives. My other
passion is cooking and I have good knives. Seems the same set-up could
be used there as well.
All the above not withstanding, I am eternally grateful for your
article. It has saved me from explaining to my beloved wife just WHY I
needed to spend nearly $200 on waterstones...and just what the heck a
waterstone is.
Thank you again..
Bill Wright
Coastal New Jersey
Brent Beach
paircon01 wrote:
>
> Brent and gang...
> First, may your new year be the best ever...
>
> Now to the important stuff...
>
> On a whim, I purchased some marble tile to use rather than glass...for
> several reasons. The main one...I am a total klutz and will likely not
> drop a four pound marble tile. The question..is marble sufficiently
> smooth to work in lieu of glass?
If it is flat and smooth, I don't expect any problems. You will find out
when you try the 5 micron paper - if the surface is not smooth it will tear.
I now have 7 different grits, each with its own sheet of glass, in a
cheap plastic toolbox. No way to do that with marble, unless I put
rollers on the toolbox.
> Next...ironically, SHOPNOTES had a similar article at about the same
> time FINE WOODWORKING carried Brent's article. Concepts identical,
> executioin identical, details somewhat different. The SHOPNOTE guru
> suggested using plain ole woodworking sandpaper (80 and 120 grit IIRC)
> to establish the initial bevel and then plain ole wet/dry from 160 to
> 2000 grit (again IIRC, the article is upstairs and I feel lazy this
> AM). He uses a 25 and 30 degree microbevel. Any thoughts on the
> different approach? I am more of a hobbyist than avocationalist so the
> devil IS in the details for me...
The 3M paper is better - more consistent grit, better backing, PSA
backed so no hassles with glue. You can hone 150 times per half sheet,
so less than 1 cent a honing with 3M. A little tougher to find, but no
problem after that.
As for the initial bevel, I have been experimenting with Norton 3X and
have just about decided it won't work. I have had success with a coarse
Silicon Carbide bench stone, but you would have to make the stone vise
as well.
If you use a belt sander and grind almost to the edge, rather than
turning a burr, you should have no problems. You will have to replace
the tool rest though. I would not bother experimenting with regular
woodworking sandpaper - garnet is not hard enough and that is one of the
best plain old woodworking sandpapers.
> Third issue that is vexing me. While I do have a number of Western
> style chisels...mostly Marples Blue Chip, I also have a number of
> Japanese laminated blade chisels. Neither article addresses the latter
> from either techique or "angle"...although I have never really felt
> that 25 soft wood, 28-30 degree hardwood was different Occident to
> Orient. That said, I would appreciate some comment on any difference
> needed for the Japanese chisels, if any.
The problem with Japanese chisels is that they are so short - hard to
grab in a jig. I will be adding a section on jigs for chisels,
especially short chisels. The jig design should be a little different -
it should be slanted. You can make a jig that is 1/2" thick, 5" tall,
with top having included angle 35 degrees (looke like a plane iron with
a 35 degree primary bevel) and about 3" wide. This will let you hone
even very short chisels with no problem. An image of such a jig is on
the stonevise page.
I have no experience with Japanese chisels. I have read though that part
of the sharpening process involves tapping the bevel with a small hammer
to reshape the back whenever the land on the back gets too small. I am
not sure how this works with back flattening. A complex issue. You might
hunt around for a group that discusses Japanese tools - I have seen such
a group but do not know where.
> Fourth issue...could you comment on modifying the technique for
> sharpening other edges...for instance fine kitchen knives. My other
> passion is cooking and I have good knives. Seems the same set-up could
> be used there as well.
For renewing a knife I use a standard knife steel - a good blade rarely
needs to be actually sharpened.
For grinding, I use my belt sander with a very fine grit belt to put the
bevel on kitchen knives - eyeball this, no tool rest.
The problem is the shaped edge - you cannot have an abrasive the shape
of the knife, so must innovate. For hand grinding, the jig design that
makes the most sense to me is the Edgepro Apex. I can imagine making
something like this, attaching some 15 micron abrasive, and using it to
hand grind edges on knives.
> All the above not withstanding, I am eternally grateful for your
> article. It has saved me from explaining to my beloved wife just WHY I
> needed to spend nearly $200 on waterstones...and just what the heck a
> waterstone is.
> Thank you again..
>
> Bill Wright
> Coastal New Jersey
Brent
--
Victoria, B.C., Canada