Ets 2 1.35 Product Key
Florene Pothoven
The voltage output of a battery is a function of its chemistry, and it just happens that the only chemistry that produces 1.35 volts is Mercury, which becomes a health problem when millions (billions?) of them are discarded in landfills.
The Zinc/Air hearing aid batteries are 1.4 volts, and their voltage/discharge curve is nearly identical to the original Mercury batteries specified for these older cameras and meters (close enough for good performance in anything I know of). In some cases they are very easy to adapt, in others less so, it depends on the design of your camera. There are other ways of making do with non-poisonous batteries, but the Zinc/Air is the most accurate and the easiest if you can get it to physically fit in your camera (Wein makes a Zinc/Air cell in the 625 form, but it's pretty expensive).
Charles, here's a voltage discharge chart of various battery chemistries. As you can see, neither the Mercury nor the Zinc/Air battery actually puts out 1.35 volts in actual service during most of its life. The two batteries are virtually identical in their output curves though.
The graph of the discharge curve is interesting. It doesn't, however, show the lifespan of each battery's discharge curve. The zinc-air battery has a considerably shorter lifespan, about a year in cameras, about a quarter the life of a mercury battery. But they are good for those using 1.35v power supplies. You can also consider getting the power supply modified to take 1.5v silver oxide batteries. Some shops will do this for cameras and may do it for light meters.
The concern about mercury is mailing since it's considered a hazardous material by the US Post Office, and can't be shipped through the mail system. This concern, with small batteries, may be insignficant but the rules applies to the material (mercury), not the product (batteries). You should ask at the shipping company about their rules.
This is true. But the batteries cost less than a dollar apiece and contain no hazardous materials, and I think a year, or even six months (which is about what I get out of them) is a reasonable life span at that price.
An update to the power supply conversion, I've had both my Minolta SRT's converted for silver oxide batteries and the light meter recalibrated for the (small) voltage difference, and they work as good as new. And as the graph shows, the silver oxide discharge curve is quite similar to the mercury battery curve, and the batteries last almost as long. The conversion was done as part of the a normal cleaning and calibration, so it wasn't that much more.
Thank you Richard Oleson for revealing the technical revelation. The fact that it's a chemical problem is a forgivable explanation for why they no longer make batteries in this voltage. I've popped a 1.4v in the meter and am going out today with my trusty in camera meter to test it out. It's a very small accessory shoe fiting meter that I simply bought to use with some older cameras in tricky situations.
My specific case is:
I have the Alienware m17xR3 laptop with a 2630QM Sandy Bridge board. Currently, I have the stock 1.5 V modules and when I check the overclocking options in my bios, the RAM voltage option ranges from 1.5 - 1.65 V. Is this simply because the bios recognizes that these are the values which my current RAM support and thus they will change when I install 1.35 V RAM or will I have to run the 1.35 V sticks at minimum 1.5 V?
Crucial refers to this as Dual Voltage: In the past, most DDR3 memory voltage ranged from 1.5 - 1.65v. More recently, dual 1.35/1.5 voltage modules came available at Crucial.com. The dual-voltage module will run only run at 1.35V if your specific system supports that voltage, otherwise the memory will run at 1.5V.
Kingston: As DRAM manufacturers shrink their dies and/or increase their yields of DDR3L, they soon reach a point where the majority of their DRAM output becomes DDR3L or dual-voltage, handling 1.5V or 1.35V voltages.
DDR3L (low-voltage DDR3) is just an "extension" of the DDR3 standard, so companies has to be aware that plugging a module will default to 1.5V on most systems. At 1.5V, the worst that will happen will be a waste of electricity/battery.
RAM modules contain pre-defined configurations (SPD, XMP, etc.) but the default one is often safer value that will work on as many systems as possible. For compatibility purposes, that setting might not be factory-set to 1.35V, but 1.5V instead. The default timings can also be different and slower from the ones indicated on your module package (I have an other answer on this topic).
For this reason, there's no chance it will overclock by itself even if it's running at a higher voltage (unless your current BIOS settings are manually set to run at specific speeds higher than your new modules would support - if so, reset your memory settings to AUTO before installing them).
In conclusion, 1.35V is perfectly safe. It's still always a good idea after installing RAM to go in the BIOS and verify/adjust the settings to ensure they match the module packages and perform optimally.
I believe the difference is that the lower voltage 1.35 V parts have their ratings at this voltage. Parts will normally slow down with lower voltage, so rating the part for a given speed, at lower voltage allows the part to be used in those applications.
MediaWiki 1.35 is an obsolete long-term support release of MediaWiki. Consult the RELEASE NOTES file for the full list of changes.It was deployed on Wikimedia Foundation wikis through incremental "wmf "-branches starting 1 October 2019. The 1.35.0 stable release came out on 25 September 2020.Download 1.35.14 or checkout the REL1_35 branch in Git to follow this release.It went end-of-life on December 21, 2023.
MediaWiki 1.35 bundled the VisualEditor extension, which provides a visual editing experience as an alternative to the traditional source editor. It will not be necessary to setup a separate instance of Parsoid, as it is built into MediaWiki core.
Hi, I wanted to update my BIOS and Microcodes of my HP DC7800 SFF so that I can upgrade my CPU from Core2Duo E6550 to Core2Quad Q6600. I have tried all of the methods, and I have known that my BIOS with version 1.04 won't save any of the settings except the time and date. What can I do? I need urgent answers because I wanted to improve the speed of my unit. Thanks!
EDIT: I had to change the title and my issue, so no more people are confused, I am sorry about that. My issue was I was updating my bios via SP73582 (the 1.35) and after restarting, nothing change. Still at 1.04. I have done the Windows and DOS Environment update. And nothing changed. No POST errors though. I cleared the CMOS including resetting the BIOS configs to factory. I still can't update my bios. Was it because of my hard drive? or my OS? (Win7Ult x32) I wanna fix this already guys pls
Hello, thanks for answering my post. But I see what you mean, I am trying to say that when I update my BIOS from 1.04 to 1.35. I doesn't work and still says 1.04 in bootup. What should I do? I have already tried the bios update you have sent me, but it doesn't work. Still stays in version 1.04. All of this also happens with the Microcode update from 1.0 to 1.14
Hi, so here's what happened. I have installed the BIOS you gave me. I have followed all the exact steps to install and update the new bios. I opened the windows update through C:/swsetup/SP38811/HPQFlash then ran as administrator. Beforehand, I disabled my anti-virus (aka Windows Defender) and disabled my internet also. Then proceed to updating the bios. It showed first what BIOS my computer has (1.04) and the update which is 1.24. Next, it processes the update, then there's a countdown before it restarts my computer. So, I waited. And as it restarted, I saw my BIOS in the bootup, it is still 1.04. I have done also the DOS Flash method where I make a MS-DOS bootable flash drive and update the BIOS through that. Still, didn't do anything. What factors could still prevent me from updating the BIOS? Was it my OS? Or I may have hardware problems? I also tried to install a new OS, which is Windows 8.1 x64 with another bootable flash drive. It just froze and didn't load.
Crucial is selling additonal memory for the iMac 21.5" 2.5 Ghz Mid-2011 model, two identical memory products except one is 1.5V and one is 1.35V. They recommend that although lower voltage is theoretically better, you should match whatever is already installed in your computer, which is probably 1.5V. I can't seem to find any reference to that at all. Can anyone help shed some light on this?
Higher voltage means more heat. You can use the lower voltage, it will use slightly less power. RAM needs to be of a higher quality to run stable at lower voltage. Just use the correct voltage ram that is recommended however.
Let's be careful, here. Heat is generated from power dissipation. Power (wattage) is the product of Voltage times Current (amperes). Unless there is a change in the power dissipation there is no change in heat production. A product using a higher voltage at a lower current can dissipate exactly the same heat as one with a lower voltage and higher current.
Of greater importance is that the memory bus provides the voltage that is used by the memory. If the bus provides 1.5 volts and you install RAM that runs at 1.35 volts that could result in damaging the module or at least shortening its useful life.
All of your answers were helpful, but it all comes back to my original question. I can't find info anywhere, including in the user manual, online, etc. as to what voltage the memory bus supplies. The specs for additional memory have no mention of voltage that I can find.
The typical product sold for your computer use 1.5 volts. I'd stick to that to avoid any possible problems associated with using RAM that is not known to match what's currently installed. In general unless you plan to replace all the RAM modules in the compute, it's not a good idea to "mix" modules of different specifications (other than amount of memory on the module.) Vendors such as those I've mentioned are selling RAM for your model that use 1.5 volts. I would trust they must know something about what should work properly. I've used memory from Datamem for more than 20 year in every Mac I've every owned. I've never had a problem with the memory nor with the vendor. I've purchased many other products such as hard drives, enclosures, SSDs, etc. from OWC. They, too, are a highly reliable and well respected vendor of products for Mac computers. I don't think you can go wrong with either of them.
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