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Since Preen Natural Vegetable Garden Weed Preventer only inhibits sprouting seeds, it can be used with confidence around established plants. However, do not apply on newly seeded areas. When your vegetable sprouts have true leaves and are 2-3 inches tall, it is safe to apply this product even up to the day of harvest.
First remove any existing weeds that may be growing. Sprinkle Preen Natural Vegetable Garden Weed Preventer evenly over the entire soil surface, at the rate of 5 lbs. per 250 sq. ft. Rake lightly into the soil then immediately water the top 1-2 inches of soil to activate the product. After, do not water for at least 2-3 days. If excessive rain occurs, reapplication may be necessary.
Preen Guarantee: To the extent consistent with applicable law, Lebanon Seaboard Corporation guarantees you will be satisfied with the performance of Preen products when used as directed, or your money back. If not satisfied, describe the nature of your problem, and send with proof of purchase to:
I then proceeded to spread it across multiple beds, add it around the trees in my front yard food forest, and turn it into the ground along the front fence line where I was planting dozens of newly purchased thornless blackberries.
Person after person has written me to share tales of wrecked gardens. Some people lost beds because of contaminated hay they used in their compost. Others lost beds due to manure. Still others purchased compost or garden soil and had it kill their plants.
As a matter of fact, herbicides can contaminate commercially made soils that are approved for Organic agriculture! Learn 5 essential questions to ask a producer before buying compost soil for your garden.
Alfalfa hay and pellets were, at one time, considered safe alternatives to regular hay, as it was not typically sprayed with persistent herbicides. However, that appears to not be the case any longer.
A friend lost a chunk of her food forest plants after picking up a load of well-rotted hay and spreading it around. Members of the grass family may be sprayed with Aminopyralid-containing pesticides. Avoid.
Learn how to source herbicide-free compost, then ask questions and learn more about their process. If they have control over all of the materials in the supply chain and emphatically say they do not spray, then they deserve to have your business.
My husband and I had a similar problem several years ago after harvesting free manure from the free-range cattle areas near our home. After we contaminated our entire urban homestead, we discovered that the herbicides are a major culprit as are the inoculations that they give the cattle every year. These chemicals, from both sources, contaminate the cows and their fecal matter, but usually they are slaughtered before there is an outward manifestation of the toxicity.
Hello,
I have had much success using corrugated cardboard boxes put on top of existing beds fields and cover with compost, leaves, mulch.
No more weeds, plus great soft soil, and direct sow no problem. Also, plants are easy to pull out of ground!
Yes! For adult rabbits kept as pets (not kidding does, young rabbits or meat rabbits who need the higher protien in alfalfa) timothy hay is reccomended by most vets, shelters and rabbit organizations as the main dietary staple. For all of us using our bunnies poo in the yard and garden we now know to be careful if this aminopyralid is used on the hay we feed our bunnos so thankyou!
Yes, but watch the salt in your diet. If you like your chips, save your pee for salt tolerant veggies. And girl pee is different than boy pee. I talked to some folks using urine as fertilizer to grow algae, and they mentioned using just male urine because of the anti microbial properties of female urine.
I do thermal composting. I use a 50/30/20 mix of brown/green/and high nitrogen. I monitor with a temperature probe. Moisture level monitoring is essential. You want a 50% moisture content(an easy test is to grab a handful of your compost and squeeze. You should get just a few drop of water to come out. If no water but the compost holds its shape you are about 40%. If the compost falls apart you are 30% or less). You want the compost to be above 130F. 130F-140F turn 3 times. If 140-160F turn two times. If above 160F turn one time. If the temperature gets to 170F turn immediately. At approximately 180F the compost goes anaerobic and will start to make methane and can catch fire. Also, in the temperatures noted above you want the compost to maintain the temperature range for at least 24 hours before turning.
I am relieved to hear that alfalfa is not sprayed with Grazon. I Have been trying to find organic alfalfa pellets for my goats and it is just not available around here. I was afraid to buy the non-organic version for fear of poisoning my garden as you described (not to mention the goats!). Thank you for this information!
Since sunflowers absorb heavy metals & some chemicals, is it possible to sunflower the hell out of my garden to help clean it a little if this is the problem? Will the flowers from my plants poison the bees or hummingbirds? Pollinators are a premium out here!
If you are applying mulch that deep your plants and soil may not be getting enough air which could also explain why the other plants are doing fine. Plants need sun, moisture and air to grow. The earthworms and other soil life also need air.
I was a cotton scout for a summer 20 years ago. One farmer had spiny pigweed in one field. He had to abandon that field because the pigweed crowded out the cotton and I was unable to scout it. It has one and half inch cactus like spines, you can not walk through it.
Grazon does not contain aminopyralid, but a mixture of picloram and 2,4D. The picloram has the long residual. The label states that very fact. The farmer should have read the label and either, not use that herbicide or not sell the manure.
Not all manures are bad as the author implies.
I had the same problem with a big load of mulch I purchased. Being a new gardener, I thought I must be to blame for all the dying plants, until I realized that the area where the mulch had been dumped was not even growing weeds. Every bed, every plant I used it on died. I gathered and disposed of what I could, but even a year later I have a big sand patch where that mulch was dumped.
My goodness, this was timely. I was about to mulch my 15 year old mixed home orchard of 2.5 acres with straw hay and horse manure for the first time. Was hoping to save on water use.
I am in Australia and did a search and yes Grazon is used out here.
For some time now I was wondering why my plants which I raise in pots before planting out into the house gardens were really acting up. Have not had a decent home grown tomato in about 5 years.
I bought all my compost and potting mix in cheaply. Cannot see me buying lucerne or pea straw out here for mulching as it hugely expensive.
Back to the drawing board!
YES!!!!! Thank U, Amy. I feel exactly as U do: a primary basic right has been taken away from us. I have heard from old-timers that fresh/green chicken manure can burn plants unless it has been well composted. I wonder: is chicken manure safe from herbicides? Can anyone advise on this? This comment is respectfully submitted.
CHICKENS LOVE TO EAT GREEN PLANTS IF THEY ARE FREE RANGING. AS LONG AS THIS CHEMICAL HAD NOT BEEN USED ON THE AREA CHICKENS ARE AT THEN I ASSUME IT WOULD BE SAFE. I PLACE MY CHICKEN MANURE IN AN AREA WHERE I CAN MAINTAIN IT. AS LONG AS IT HAS SET FOR A YEAR OR MORE IT IS SAFE TO USE IN SMALL AMOUNTS, OTHERWISE THE NITROGEN LEVEL IS VERY HIGH AND ALTHOUGH IT WILL NOT KILL THE PLANTS THEY MAY NOT PRODUCE THE FRUIT EXPECTED AT HARVEST.
Thank you for the alert & for mentioning that beans will sound the alarm. I was just preparing to load my raised beds with soil & bagged manure. Now i will plant some beans inthemanure first to see if they grow well. Now what to do with the hay from the backyard chicken run. I normally add hay during the rainy season to keep the mud, smell & flies at a minimum. We use it about twice a year to mulch around our fruit trees. I guess i will have to find a new source.
Well said! We to refuse to use chemical on our pasture and use mechanical means/ plant means to control weeds in our field. I wish the author would have separate the farmers who actually care about improving the soil. We use our cattle manure on our garden and fruit trees with never having this issue. We know our manure is clean and safe too!
Here in UK we had a problem with (probably) Aminopyralid on our allotment site a few years ago. Fortunately it was not too severe but it has made me very cautious about the horse manure which we get for free. It is very strawy and I am only using it on pathways to keep down weeds, I watch carefully for any distorted growth on the adjacent plants. Farmers here are not supposed to let contaminated hay or manure get into the food chain, but who knows? I am told straw should be OK as it is from grain destined for human consumption. I have had disastrous results using potting soil containing recycled green waste, presumably because weedkiller was present on grass etc sent for recycling. I believe Chlorpyralid is a very common weedkiller for gardeners and related to Aminopyralid. How difficult it is becoming to grow healthy food!
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