[OT] Crank threads stripped

[Tom Hazelton]

On my ride in today I managed to completely de-thread my crank on the left side.  Starting from the water stop my left pedal gradually got looser and looser, which I initially thought was a lose seal between my shoe and pedal.  I eventually completely lost my left pedal, around East Palo Alto.  I managed the rest of the ride with one leg.

This is totally my fault from a prior incident involving erroneous pedal installation.

I was wondering if this means a new crank for sure, or if I can somehow get away with retooling the existing one somehow.  It's pretty damn stripped.

I have a FSA Omega BB30, 50/34 crank right now on my Cannondale Synapse 6 Apex.  If I need a new crank, any suggestions for an upgrade? =D

[Peter Chang]

2013/8/8 Tom Hazelton <thaz...@gmail.com>:

> I was wondering if this means a new crank for sure, or if I can somehow get
> away with retooling the existing one somehow. It's pretty damn stripped.

it might not be cost effective but the threaded pedal mounting area is
often (w/ 'modern' cranks) a sleeve that can be replaced. on the other
hand, if these threads are that jacked, your pedal threads are
probably unhappy as well.

\p

[djconnel]

You can also use a helicoil.  A friend of mind did this for me on some aerobars.

http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/deauville/helicoil/

[Jason Thorpe]

You need a new crank. Unless you can find a separate left crank arm, which do show up on eBay from time to time.

That said, a SRAM Force BB30 crank is not terribly expensive, and they're pretty damn good (only thing I don't like about them are the somewhat soft SRAM chainrings, but when they wear out just replace them w/ Praxis rings and be done). Make sure to NOT get Force 22 (for the new 11-speed drivetrain).

-- thorpej

[Johan Beisser]

I've done a helicoil and rethread of motorcycle and car heads for
spark plugs. They're tough and will work for quite some time.

It's just a matter if the effort and time is worth avoiding replacing the part.

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[Peter Chang]

2013/8/8 Jason Thorpe <tho...@me.com>:

>
> That said, a SRAM Force BB30 crank is not terribly expensive, and they're pretty damn good (only thing I don't like about them are the somewhat soft SRAM chainrings, but when they wear out just replace them w/ Praxis rings and be done).

and i can give you the sf2g-er deal on one if you like 172.5.

\p

[w e]

left crank arm? Probably a few coming out since the release of http://www.stagescycling.com meter

Or just buy a stages power meter?

[Peter Chang]

2013/8/8 djconnel <djco...@gmail.com>:

> You can also use a helicoil. A friend of mind did this for me on some
> aerobars.
>
> http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/deauville/helicoil/

if there's a sleeve though i wouldn't recommend this w/o removing the
remnants of the old sleeve. the sleeve is sort of done w/ the method
that the link mentions above (unless your crank is carbon), and you're
going to be 'cutting' the sleeve material to re-do a new sleeve.

\p

[Aaron Nathan]

Hi Tom-

I did the EXACT same thing. I went to about 10 bike shops before I found one that would do it. Valencia cyclery put a helicoil in my SRAM red cranks, and I had absolutely no problems (put about 1000 miles on them afterwards). It was also relatively cheap, like 50 bucks. DEFINITELY have someone do it who knows what they are doing.

-aaron

\p

[Jason Thorpe]

On Aug 8, 2013, at 11:09 AM, w e <ewa...@gmail.com> wrote:

left crank arm? Probably a few coming out since the release of http://www.stagescycling.com meter

Or just buy a stages power meter?

...except Stages doesn't make one compatible with the FSA Omega.

-- thorpej

[Tom Hazelton]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.  Since I live near Valencia Cyclery I may check them out first before replacing the whole crank.  Peter, I may take you up on that crank if things don't go well there =)

Cheers

Tom

[Ben Blizard]

Yeah, after JT mentioned it, I looked at a couple of used cranks on eBay.  ~100-150 for a new-to-you one, several reds available at that price.

--

Ben Blizard
Voice: (650) 450-0037

[Judd Blair]

Yeah, honestly an FSA Omega doesn't seem worth repairing - put that money toward a used crank on ebay/CL, you could get a serious upgrade for not much more than a repair. 

[Marcello Pedersen]

I had problems with a helicoil installation on a turbo gasket (more torque and heat than your pedals, I think) . I found Time Sert to be a much better solution that is still working after 30k+ miles later:

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/service___repair/thread_repair/time_sert.php

[Ken MacInnis]

Time Sert kits are going to be almost as much as a good condition used crank, but agreed that it's a much better solution. You can use Loctite with them (ends up with a spinning insert on Helicoils), plus the torque/heat advantages - I've even heard of people using them for head bolt repair (!!) but I don't know if I'd be comfortable doing that.

You can always follow up a failed Helicoil with a T-S. :)

On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 1:59 PM, Marcello Pedersen <mped...@google.com> wrote:

I had problems with a helicoil installation on a turbo gasket (more torque and heat than your pedals, I think) . I found Time Sert to be a much better solution that is still working after 30k+ miles later:

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/service___repair/thread_repair/time_sert.php

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