OT: Any idea how to get this freehub off?

[Matt Egan]

Does anyone have experience removing Bontrager (I believe also DT Swiss style) freehubs?

Here's my question on the bicycles Stackexchange site. This is my first time doing this, so not sure what I'm missing. Any help or tips would be appreciated! I gotta get my gravel bike back on the roa-  errr.... gravel!

Thanks!

Matt

[Rob]

put a rag around the free hub and tug. try not to punch yourself in the face when it comes loose.

[Rob]

also, i believe that the freehub will come off regardless if the cassette is on or off. i think i used the cassette as something to push against to get it off once.

[d chang]

Le sam. 11 avr. 2020 à 18:04, 'Rob' via SF2G <sf...@googlegroups.com> a écrit :
>
> put a rag around the free hub and tug. try not to punch yourself in the face when it comes loose.

you can also put a dowel through the other side and tap it out (to
avoid punching yourself in the face), assuming you can get the end cap
off (since the beraing inner diameter is larger than the end cap's).

\p

[Matt Egan]

It is _solidly_ affixed. Very strange how the only thing keeping the freehub body onto the hub. I did some searching and a few people have complained that when their wheel was off the freehub "fell off", but not that many, so I'm imagining it's somewhat of an interference fit.

I made some progress by putting the lock ring back on and then using a punch to tap on the back side of the exposed part of the ring. I could see the outer spacer moving further away from the main tube of the thru axle hole, and there was play left-right in the whole assembly. However, I just didn't feel comfortable putting much more sideways load on the spokes/rim as I banged on the lock ring. Percussive disassembly always makes me tingle that I'm doing something the "wrong way".

Unfortunately a typical bearing press doesn't work here -- since those typically push against whatever is in the middle of the bearing (like a front wheel spindle of a car), but in this case I'm trying to pull the thing in the middle off, so I actually need a "pusher". My idea would be for something like this:

Basically just a piece of wood with a hole in it that fits over the freehub and rests on the area of the hub where the spokes attach. Then a similar piece of metal or wood that slides between the lockring and the freehub. Each piece of wood has two holes in it to accept a piece of threaded rod through it. Then a nut can be pressed up against each side of the piece of wood and tightened in opposite directions from one another -- pushing the two pieces of wood apart, and the freehub off the hub.

At this point though, I'm just going to let the Trek shop do it. I want to get back on the road. I'm interested to see how they get the job done too.

Thanks for everyone's input!!

[Matt Egan]

Whoops -- typo -- "Very strange how the only thing keeping the freehub body onto the hub is the compression of of the entire assembly into the frame.

[Scott Crosby]

Very strange how the only thing keeping the freehub body onto the hub is the compression of of the entire assembly into the frame.

I was surprised about that too when I recently swapped out a shimano freehub body for a campy on a powertap hub. it was reluctant to come off but finally did, and I narrowly avoided punching myself in the friggin' face.

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[Patrick Kitto]

You clearly didn’t heed Chang’s Advice. It was the second and fifth sentence ‘try not to punch yourself in the face’.

On Apr 13, 2020, at 19:39, Scott Crosby <scr...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Scott Crosby]

I would have, had I read it 6 months ago!

separately, Kitto, I broke down and bought a campy ultratorque bearing puller/seater for that one time I'll ever need it. happy to mail it to you.

[Patrick Kitto]

I got one too. It’s required kit to remove a power torque crankset. 

Funny how the expensive tool is required to pull the cheaper crank (and a 14mm Allen to install it?!?) while the super duper fancy one goes on/off with a 10mm Allen. Fucking Italians. 

On Apr 13, 2020, at 20:50, Scott Crosby <scr...@gmail.com> wrote:



[d chang]

Le lun. 13 avr. 2020 à 19:13, Matt Egan <matt.ma...@gmail.com> a écrit :

Unfortunately a typical bearing press doesn't work here

it's a blind bearing puller, there's a split ring collar that you feed through the one side that backs up against the back of the bearing and you can pull the bearing straight out.

\p

 

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[Ken MacInnis]

You can usually rent these for free from an auto parts store. Whether or not a given store's kit will have the right size, I dunno.

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[Rob]

not sure how a bearing puller is going to work when the bearings are stuck on an aluminum axle, perhaps i am misunderstanding.

one thing to try, put some of the cassette back on and then some line around it. secure the line to something sturdy, parking meter, sign post, then give the wheel a yank.

[d chang]

Le mar. 14 avr. 2020 à 09:51, 'Rob' via SF2G <sf...@googlegroups.com> a écrit :
>
> not sure how a bearing puller is going to work when the bearings are stuck on an aluminum axle, perhaps i am misunderstanding.

i think the outer bearing should be on a shoulder on the freehub. if
you can pull on that it should pullout the whole freehub?

\p

[Scott Crosby]

not sure how a bearing puller is going to work when the bearings are stuck on an aluminum axle, perhaps i am misunderstanding.

 the bearing puller was OT within this OT; mentioned it to Kitto (and by extension all Campy people out there) in case they needed to borrow it for ultratorque cranks.

On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 9:51 AM 'Rob' via SF2G <sf...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

not sure how a bearing puller is going to work when the bearings are stuck on an aluminum axle, perhaps i am misunderstanding.

one thing to try, put some of the cassette back on and then some line around it. secure the line to something sturdy, parking meter, sign post, then give the wheel a yank.

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[Matt Egan]

I thought about this, not a bad idea, but I'm not sure how sturdy the cassette is in that dimension -- want to avoid buying a new cassette as well :)

[Matt Egan]

Just got off the phone with the folks at the Trek Superstore in Berkeley. They said a year or two ago they would have punched it out from the inside using a punch or an allen key, but now they use a tool called the "Hub Genie". Here's a video of one in action. I'm still a little skeptical that it's going to be as easy to pull off as it is in the video. I'm just going to have the Trek store do it for me, I'll peer through the window into the shop as they're doing it and report back how well it goes for them.

[Rob]

On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 1:54:06 PM UTC-7, Matt Egan wrote:

Just got off the phone with the folks at the Trek Superstore in Berkeley. They said a year or two ago they would have punched it out from the inside using a punch or an allen key, but now they use a tool called the "Hub Genie". Here's a video of one in action. I'm still a little skeptical that it's going to be as easy to pull off as it is in the video. I'm just going to have the Trek store do it for me, I'll peer through the window into the shop as they're doing it and report back how well it goes for them.

looks like that tool is for just getting the cap off. FWIW looks like the new dt swiss models (180 and 240 thus far) have caps with a little flange to make them easier to remove. I cleaned the freehub internals of mine yesterday and just yanked the whole thing off with the cassette and lock ring still attached. I have 2 dt swiss rear hubs and the one i just cleaned is def easier to remove than the other, but both nowhere near the problems you faced. on the other one i do not even bother trying to remove the cap first either and just tug at the free hub.

so i looked at the photo on stackexchange a few weeks ago and noticed how your free hub is gouged, even on the inboard side. since you just replaced your freehub you might want to consider a different cassette. the shimano ultegra series use an aluminum carrier which is shared with the inboard cogs -- on my 11s 11-34 the  6 inboard cogs use a carrier (see attached photo from  https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RACS001-03-ENG.pdf) so only the 5 outboard cogs will gouge the aluminum freehub.