Desperately Seeking Clever Designer/3D-Printer Person For Unique Accessory Bracket

[mtoma...@outlook.com]

I want to be able to mount a finder scope onto any telescope or pair of binoculars.

The photos below show a crude wooden bracket that I fabricated, a $10 finder scope dovetail base attached to it via two bolts screwed into two brass threaded inserts, and a big hose clamp.  The last photo shows a Clear Skies Astro "Hopper" e-finder mounted onto a pair of binoculars using this make-shift system.

Anyone out there interested in fabricating (i.e., 3D-printing) for me a better, more elegant solution?  If so, what design would you propose, what would you charge me, and how long would it take?

Thanks in advance to all responders.

Mark T.

[Alex]

Hi Mark,

Do you need a universal mount similar to your current design, or are you targeting a few specific instruments you have?

What is the practical reason for seeking a change from your current setup? Additionally, what do you plan to mount on it specifically?

Lastly, what is your location and/or how do you plan to conduct required measurements?

Best regards,

Alex

--
Observing Sites, Observing Reports, About TAC linked at top of:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/sf-bay-tac
 
Subscribers post to the mailing list at:
 
sf-ba...@googlegroups.com,
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The Astronomy Connection (TAC)" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to sf-bay-tac+...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sf-bay-tac/67caf7d9-77af-4670-8b91-892e4a2ff22fn%40googlegroups.com.

[Joe Acosta]

Looks like a fairly easy design. Have you looked at DIY using tinkercad?  Then you can print it using craftcloud

It looks like 4 blocks and 2 holes?

Joe

[Alex]

To elaborate on my inquiries above. Plastics are deforming from thermals widely. If the expansion rates are too different you would need a robust tension mechanism designed specifically to address that (surely if the idea is to make a nice mount, not with the same worm clamps).
To make things mate neatly (glove-fit) you need good measurements in the first place. Though in 80% of cases fit-check/reprint yields much better designs. Thus you would want to either mail/bring your stuff to me (if I take the challenge :) or measure everything correctly and produce specific features images.
Target accessories would dictate the level of the mount rigidity. Plywood is very rigid compared to most 3DP materials. The camera is lightweight and is software driven tus self-recalibrating. But a heavy optical finder or a high zoom guider might suffer from the plastic flex. In particular after re-tensioning of the clamp.

Thus, perhaps, just neat manual sanding and proper paint coating of that plywood piece, together with the clamp padding and sleeving could be a better working option for some applications. :)

E.g. the latest implementation I had for one of my projects (StarsenseExplorer-like pointer) looks like this...

...for very specific reasons (mounted on the Orion 70mm Multi-Use Finder Scope, which is in fact the front piece of their binos).

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sf-bay-tac/106a152d-ef17-4d88-88b1-2f84f7c17180n%40googlegroups.com.

[Alex]

Finally, I'm not familiar with the "Hopper" gag design. How it's tolerant to the variable OA orthogonality, sensor axis roll, what is the error, front lens mount rigidity, etc, so additional research or/and experimenting with the camera would be needed to figure out what would work and what's not. i.o.w. it's not like "I need a mount", ="Here it is". Neither "Here is my aluminum mount, 3D print 1:1 in PLA". It simply would not work the same mechanically. THough with some answers and above images quite safe assumptions can be made. All of the above would contribute to the cost, as even though materials are very cheap, the scarce personal time is golden.

[Joe Acosta]

I would not use play for anything I wanted to last. I converted my manual dobsonian to go and it uses 3d printed gears. One of my altitude bearings is a 3d printed gear. Works great!

I'd use petg as it lasts longer and can withstand higher heat. I have a 3d printed petg solar finder. Did not melt in the sun.

Joe

On Sun, Feb 1, 2026, 8:51 PM Alex <alex.k...@gmail.com> wrote:

Finally, I'm not familiar with the "Hopper" gag design. How it's tolerant to the variable OA orthogonality, sensor axis roll, what is the error, front lens mount rigidity, etc, so additional research or/and experimenting with the camera would be needed to figure out what would work and what's not. i.o.w. it's not like "I need a mount", ="Here it is". Neither "Here is my aluminum mount, 3D print 1:1 in PLA". It simply would not work the same mechanically. THough with some answers and above images quite safe assumptions can be made. All of the above would contribute to the cost, as even though materials are very cheap, the scarce personal time is golden.

--

Observing Sites, Observing Reports, About TAC linked at top of:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/sf-bay-tac
 
Subscribers post to the mailing list at:
 
sf-ba...@googlegroups.com,
---

You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "The Astronomy Connection (TAC)" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/sf-bay-tac/KX33jfs1imw/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to sf-bay-tac+...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sf-bay-tac/CAG%2BmxVR%3DfsBFSyLjC9pDCJymVYqiFxpJLUBLVvb6qsE29zd2Aw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Ted Hauter]

I'd go 3M Dual Lock msybe with some zip ties.

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The Astronomy Connection (TAC)" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to sf-bay-tac+...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sf-bay-tac/CA%2BOcyu78ERst40L%3DbwcM2jNBxgbDurGgjxPWfNhQBBqOGaEuuA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Jeff Crilly]

For the celestron binos here’s a few possibilities:

1/ Here’s a 3D print of a red-dot finder mount for the celestron 20x80 binos… it mounts to the center rail.

The finder mount is Picatinny; not vixen/synta (for the hopper) so it would need some modifications (see further down for a possible adapter).

https://www.printables.com/model/124207-red-dot-finder-mount-for-celestron-20x80-binocular

2/ The following 3D print is a similar mount for the 20x80 center rail.   

It seems to have the vixen/synta female bracket for the Hopper.

In theory this would work “as-is”; I suspect the poor looking print is simply due to the printer used.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3310755

3/ This is an off-the-shelf (I presume metal) solution which might work on the celestron binos — 1” shaft collar is required on the bino center rail.

It is also for Picatinny, so some adapting will be needed to go to the vixen/synta base.

https://oberwerk.com/product/oberwerk-finder-mount/?srsltid=AfmBOors6lkATS6NfeKKAkxEGfieGHBdHBQaQZVF7thbFfZWZh43FlBZ

Here is how the picatinny rail can be adapted to Synta female:

https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/948148-reinventing-the-wheel-picatinny-to-synta-mount/#findComment-13891289

These are the components used in the post.

It might be a bit tricky finding a suitable 1/4-20 screw to hold the two parts together.

https://a.co/d/hx1XsEV

https://a.co/d/0beokqF

4/ The other alternative is a ring-clamp design (similar to the flat panel ring-clamp from deep-sky-dad).

I couldn’t find any already designed print files on the web, but one could be designed in a couple hours.

I’ve done some small (e.g 3/4”) ring clamps with a 1/4-20 screw to clamp, but not like the deep sky-dad ring which seems quite nice.

Doable to design, but just takes some patience.

If 3D printing, I would suggest using ASA.  It is supposed to be UV and temp insensitive, and doesn’t smell like ABS.

I recently printed a 102mm “press fit” dew shield and while I have only one night using it, it worked fine — no deformity under typical norcal winter lows (like 40-50F).

-Jeff

P.S.  I think I have those same exact binos, and need a red-dot finder on them.  

I’ll probably go with one of the above picatinny bases — maybe 3d printed since I have the capability.

I also have a Hopper (and pifinder) and have considered putting the Hopper on the 20x80 binos and mounting them on my parallelogram.

So.. thx for the motivation!

<IMG_7584.JPG>

<IMG_7582.JPG>

<IMG_7585 2.JPG>

--
Observing Sites, Observing Reports, About TAC linked at top of:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/sf-bay-tac
 
Subscribers post to the mailing list at:
 
sf-ba...@googlegroups.com,
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The Astronomy Connection (TAC)" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to sf-bay-tac+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sf-bay-tac/67caf7d9-77af-4670-8b91-892e4a2ff22fn%40googlegroups.com.
<IMG_7585 2.JPG><IMG_7582.JPG><IMG_7584.JPG>

[Alex]

As another alternative to 3DP of that hopper universal mounting (if that's the only attachment you want).

You can probably (depending on the hopper software capabilities) just drill a 6mm hole in the base of that 3D printed dovetail of it and heat-drive-in an 1/4x20 threaded ferrule there. Then use a cheap photo camera clamp with the ballhead to attach it anywhere rigid (and stable with the OA) on your target instrument, then pointing it into the forward direction. E.g.: https://www.temu.com/--camera-clamp-mount---magic-arm-double-ball-head-adapter-with-1-4-20-3-8-16-thread-for--nikon-dslr-action-camera-led-lights--m--mx--movi-g-601100102116968.html I had a similar clamp attached by my 12" UTA rim and holding a heavy 2 ft selfie stck with the smartphone running my plate solving app just fine despite a bit of variable flex. Not ideal for some instruments suffering from heavy UTA loads (e.g. Portaball) as such clamps are quite heavy.

I believe the 3DP engineering should be reserved for truly custom, glove-fit-like requirements. It's significantly less appealing for universal/mass production designs like general use clamps for example.

[Bill Seiler]

I can do this for you.

I have hoppers here.

What do you want to mount the hopper too?

Cost - free!

--

Observing Sites, Observing Reports, About TAC linked at top of:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/sf-bay-tac
 
Subscribers post to the mailing list at:
 
sf-ba...@googlegroups.com,
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The Astronomy Connection (TAC)" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to sf-bay-tac+...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sf-bay-tac/CAG%2BmxVQ_du5Sh9ZEwXqCvBPVQAoH23PEx43s9OC%3DNoxDZHNwaw%40mail.gmail.com

.

[mtoma...@outlook.com]

Thanks to all of you who have responded with excellent suggestions and assistance.  I now have a path to an acceptable solution.  Additional help is not needed.

Thanks again.

Mark T.