Introduction - me and bot #449
Sparky
one should a local meetup happen.
I got one of the batch #8 bots (#449) and have printed a few things,
but given the fact that it is winter and I live in an old victorian, I
am having problems with the raft sticking to the build platform. I've
also seen the "USB slowdown" problem - most apparent when printing the
lanyard area of the whistle (glob city) - I'm going to try printing
from an SD card next time I get a crack at printing. And finally I've
been plagued with stripping out the filament - especially when mashing
the filament into the build platform when making the first layer of
the raft - presumably because the pressure gets too high. But I have
had this happen even when printing the part itself. I've even seen
cases where the motor stops running (LED out).
I just ordered some PLA from makerbot and ordered parts to make a 2nd
heater nozzle. I'm seriously considering the ceramic encased heater
that makergear has. Anyone tried that as of yet?
Or better yet - mold a ceramic insulator? I suspect Douglas and
Sturgess may have the ceramic (they have everything else moldable).
Hmmm - FGR-95 (a gypsum plaster with glass fibers for re-enforcement)
may work since the insulator isn't load bearing.
A friend of mine that lives in Berkeley is getting one of the batch 9
bots.
--
sparky
Tox
> I got one of the batch #8 bots (#449) and have printed a few things,
> but given the fact that it is winter and I live in an old victorian, I
> am having problems with the raft sticking to the build platform.
Try bumping the temp up a few degrees, see if it improves. Mine is in
the garage in Alameda, and I am having more issue right now prying
stray bits of raft *off* my platform.
> I've
> also seen the "USB slowdown" problem - most apparent when printing the
> lanyard area of the whistle (glob city) - I'm going to try printing
> from an SD card next time I get a crack at printing.
That sounds to be a real improvement, doing more tests myself.
Anyone tested alternates to the FTDI cable? Any luck?
> And finally I've
> been plagued with stripping out the filament - especially when mashing
> the filament into the build platform when making the first layer of
> the raft - presumably because the pressure gets too high. But I have
> had this happen even when printing the part itself.
Usually this seems like either:
Teeth need flossing
chipout is wedging in the insulator
not running warm enough
not letting head preheat long enough before starting to print
> I've even seen
> cases where the motor stops running (LED out).
>
As in, just stalls, or you actually seeing lights not come on?
Stalling, especially if the PWM is up above 245 or so, shouldn't
happen.
Sounds like you may be running a bit cool?
>
> A friend of mine that lives in Berkeley is getting one of the batch 9
> bots.
Excellent!
>
> --
> sparky
Tox
Sparky Bartlett Jewell
On Mon, Jan 11, 2010 at 5:45 PM, Tox <scott...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Welcome!
>
>> I got one of the batch #8 bots (#449) and have printed a few things,
>> but given the fact that it is winter and I live in an old victorian, I
>> am having problems with the raft sticking to the build platform.
>
> Try bumping the temp up a few degrees, see if it improves. Mine is in
> the garage in Alameda, and I am having more issue right now prying
> stray bits of raft *off* my platform.
I've been running at 240 - based upon the thread regarding the small thermistor.
And yeah - I have the opposite problem too if I mash the raft in too much. :)
>> I've
>> also seen the "USB slowdown" problem - most apparent when printing the
>> lanyard area of the whistle (glob city) - I'm going to try printing
>> from an SD card next time I get a crack at printing.
> That sounds to be a real improvement, doing more tests myself.
>
> Anyone tested alternates to the FTDI cable? Any luck?
>
>> And finally I've
>> been plagued with stripping out the filament - especially when mashing
>> the filament into the build platform when making the first layer of
>> the raft - presumably because the pressure gets too high. But I have
>> had this happen even when printing the part itself.
> Usually this seems like either:
> Teeth need flossing
Did that before.
> chipout is wedging in the insulator
Doubtful - had just rebuilt the heater (now have heater core backwards
since I did it during the confusion over which direction was which).
> not running warm enough
> not letting head preheat long enough before starting to print
is 5 or 10 mins long enough?
>> I've even seen
>> cases where the motor stops running (LED out).
>>
> As in, just stalls, or you actually seeing lights not come on?
> Stalling, especially if the PWM is up above 245 or so, shouldn't
> happen.
As in, it was extruding (extruder motor channel LED on), then while
the X, Y, and Z steppers are still moving, the extruder had turned off
- no LED for motor channel, no motor running.
There was no M-code command to turn off the motor - this happens
randomly. A re-run will not have this problem in the same place if at
all. ie, generally this doesn't happen, but it has happened about 10%
of the time.
>>
>> A friend of mine that lives in Berkeley is getting one of the batch 9
>> bots.
Make that batch 10 (again, off by one)
Eric Smith
the Makerbot end is just too slow. I've heard it said that they're
running it slower than the USB cable is capable of because at higher
serial speeds they lose data, because they are polling the serial port
rather than using interrupt-driven receive with a ring buffer. But
even if that was fixed and they ran it at a higher serial speed, I
think it would still be too slow. For now, using the SD card is the
best solution.
MakerBlock
SD reader, so its easy to "build to file" on it, pop the chip into the
'bot and start printing.
MakerBlock