Transformers Feet
Anfos Sin
I'd rather not use extra parts for the feet of the combined mode if I don't have to, so I came up with these "leg+feet" modes for Swoop and Slug. Now I hope I can come up with hand modes for the other two dinobot limbs.
The Combiner Wars have indeed begun! At least in regards to accessories! Not to stand on the sidelines, but it seems Nonnef Productions has decided to enter the ring once again, this time offering a set of feet for Combiner Wars Menasor, Defensor, and Superion! Priced at $10 tentatively, it looks like those unsatisfied with the stock feet will have another place to go to get some. Special thanks to TFW2005 user roguesaint for bringing this to our attention! Check out the picture of the render, and discuss, after the jump!
There seems to have been a bit of confusion about this, I know I was confused myself initially, but most of the "out of stock" items on Nonnef's site were never actually in stock to begin with, having previously been up for preorder only. However Nonnef has stopped taking preorders and will make the listings open for order again once the items are made and ready to ship.
I'm a plus 1 on making the feet slightly wider. I'm not talking about PE wide. Somebody said those look like clown feet, and I kind of agree. However, a little wider than what was shown would be great to fill out Menasor's lower foot since his lower legs are so wide.
When can we expect these to be done? I couldn't make myself pay $30+ for the PE set for each of my combines, but I'm totally down for $10 for a new pair of shoes, especially since I really don't mind the stock hands and really don't like the PE hands.
I know this is a long shot, and sorry if it's been asked/addressed before, but are you maybe considering doing slightly different feet for Menasor? The feet look fine on Superion, because he's leaner than Menasor, but all of Menasor's limbs are quite thick in leg mode, so I think slightly shorter, wider feet would look better. Not that they look bad or anything, just musing for the sake of more consistent proportions.
The foot design isn't final, and I'll be making a few more tweaks to help them fill out the large legged combiners. Including being slightly wider at the base (via the rubber supports) and modifying the 5mm port piece.
But for the most part they have to all use the same molds to make things cost effective.
I'd originally had two extra points of articulation (toes and heels) as well as slightly altered designs for each combiner. But was unable to get the labor costs down to the goal of $10 a pair. It really sucked having to cut things, but the numbers showed people wouldn't buy unless we hit that price mark.
The First cord is a bit over 6 feet long. It has a custom-fit jack that inserts into the back of the Stick-up cam. The other end of this cord has a small, weather-proof electrical transformer that accepts an adapter. This transformer already comes with the
UPDATE CORRECTION: In my previous post in this tread on 08-26-2020, I tried to measure the length the cord length as best that I could, without pulling down the already-mounted cord. These previous rough measurements were as a minimum. I purchased another Stick-up camera, and I received it today. So, I re-measured the cords right out of the box. And I wanted to post the corrected, more accurate lengths of the cords.
One 40VA transformer will reliably power up to two SunPak patio heaters, up to two SunGlo patio heaters with e-heads, one Schwank patio heater, or use individual transformers for each heater. Dimensions: 3-5/8" feet x 3" wide x 2" high.
The problem is that the barn is about 300 feet away. I understand that voltage drop over 300 feet is fairly significant. Buying thicker wire to accomodate voltage drop of that magnitude may be very costly, and I'd have to figure out how to terminate the end in the panel at such a thick gauge.
Using Table 8 in chapter 9 of the NEC along with Ohm's Law (the max drop generally permitted by good practice on a branch circuit is 5% or 6V on a 120V circuit) gets you a minimum wire size of 6AWG in copper or 4AWG in aluminum.
Even with 240V being tapped at the house (source) end of this instead of 120V (so you only need one transformer) -- you'd still be out a good $850, which is comparable to simply burying 6/2 UF. A further drawback created by the transformer idea is the extra labor involved with creating a separately derived system in the barn (the equipment grounding arrangement gets...funky, see NEC 250.30 for details), so simply burying 6/2 UF is going to be your best option.
As to terminating it in the panel? Don't worry about it! The main lugs on a panelboard will easily accept 6AWG! If you're not using a panelboard (as this is a single branch circuit feeding an outbuilding), simply use appropriate wirenuts to pigtail the 6AWG UF to a length of 10AWG for the indoor branch circuit in the barn.
I believe you are complicating this issue somewhat. It would have been helpful to know the load distributions at the barn, lights, motors, number of circuits etc. Generally running two #4 wire for power and neutral and #10 for ground should work very well for conventional loading. There maybe cheaper solutions but more details would be required.
In the UK these transformers are commonly available, so reasonably priced - usually in tough yellow waterproof enclosures, used on hazardous environments like building sites. This allows the use of 110V tools to minimize the danger of cut or crushed cables. If these are available local to you, they sound ideal for a barn.
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Examination. The employer shall ensure that electrical equipment is free from recognized hazards that are likely to cause death or serious physical harm to employees. Safety of equipment shall be determined on the basis of the following considerations:
Mounting. Electric equipment shall be firmly secured to the surface on which it is mounted. Wooden plugs driven into holes in masonry, concrete, plaster, or similar materials shall not be used.
Cooling. Electrical equipment which depends upon the natural circulation of air and convection principles for cooling of exposed surfaces shall be installed so that room air flow over such surfaces is not prevented by walls or by adjacent installed equipment. For equipment designed for floor mounting, clearance between top surfaces and adjacent surfaces shall be provided to dissipate rising warm air. Electrical equipment provided with ventilating openings shall be installed so that walls or other obstructions do not prevent the free circulation of air through the equipment.
Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices designed for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be so spliced or joined as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an insulating device designed for the purpose.
Arcing parts. Parts of electric equipment which in ordinary operation produce arcs, sparks, flames, or molten metal shall be enclosed or separated and isolated from all combustible material.
Marking. Electrical equipment shall not be used unless the manufacturer's name, trademark, or other descriptive marking by which the organization responsible for the product may be identified is placed on the equipment and unless other markings are provided giving voltage, current, wattage, or other ratings as necessary. The marking shall be of sufficient durability to withstand the environment involved.
Identification of disconnecting means and circuits. Each disconnecting means required by this subpart for motors and appliances shall be legibly marked to indicate its purpose, unless located and arranged so the purpose is evident. Each service, feeder, and branch circuit, at its disconnecting means or overcurrent device, shall be legibly marked to indicate its purpose, unless located and arranged so the purpose is evident. These markings shall be of sufficient durability to withstand the environment involved.
Working space about electric equipment. Sufficient access and working space shall be provided and maintained about all electric equipment to permit ready and safe operation and maintenance of such equipment.
Working clearances. Except as required or permitted elsewhere in this subpart, the dimension of the working space in the direction of access to live parts operating at 600 volts or less and likely to require examination, adjustment, servicing, or maintenance while alive shall not be less than indicated in Table K-1. In addition to the dimensions shown in Table K-1, workspace shall not be less than 30 inches (762 mm) wide in front of the electric equipment. Distances shall be measured from the live parts if they are exposed, or from the enclosure front or opening if the live parts are enclosed. Walls constructed of concrete, brick, or tile are considered to be grounded. Working space is not required in back of assemblies such as dead-front switchboards or motor control centers where there are no renewable or adjustable parts such as fuses or switches on the back and where all connections are accessible from locations other than the back.
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