Braemar Th320ng Manual
Fairy Dawdy
Also under mine there is a fluff gatherer, it is a roller with a mesh cover under it, which spins to suck and vent the air , the mesh cover/wire just slides out for clearing of dust, if it is full of dust the heater will not light, or keeps turning off.
Yes it would, but you would hear all the normal sounds....electronic spark followed by solenoid lift....followed by ignition.....you would still have ignition for a few seconds and the unit will lockout due to not sensing the flame.
1. Thermostat control call for heat
2. PCB sends voltage to combustion fan
3. Combustion fan runs and proves airflow vai flow/ pressure switch
4. Depending on model combustion fan completes purge of combustion chamber
5 PCB prepares for ignition.
6. Usuall voltage is lowered to the combustion fan slowing the speed.
7. Voltage is sent out to both the ignition module and the gas control
8. Ignition module sparks split second befor the coil is energised on the gas valve
9. Ignition modul continues to spark until a gas flame is detected.
10. Gas flame signal is received by the PCB.
11. Ignition module stops sparking.
12. Normal combustion is monitored by the PCB via the rectified signal from the flame rod.
13. Room air fan will start shortly.
3) Previously had a new controller board box on the side last time it happened the breamar tech charged well over $1000 to fix it (thus the turn off to rush to get him back). The heater is still doing after it worked for some time. Guessing that wasnt the problem.
5) I have had a electrician who was a gas service (brivis) tech who has also looked at it without much luck unless we want to start buying parts he doesnt have to try out. Suspecting the thermistor? or maybe gas valve, vacuum pressure switch possibility. Given the thing starts it doesnt sound like anything to do with spark. I dont mind buying part for him to put in if we can work out the part and its not going to cost a small fortune.
I hate my braemar spectrolink, installed about six years ago. Worked great for 4 years now just keeps turning off and going to reset. Have had 3 techs all say its something different. Replaced the thermister, etc etc. Still wont work am freezing and just want to be warm. Have tried all the suggestions on forum and nothing works. Surely it cant be difficult. Techs say thermister to close to heat source but really how did it work like a dream for four years and now kaput.
Hiya
Just checking to see if you can assist with Braemar GE65 failure.
Unit lights by holding manual button inside heater box then seems to operate OK up to the set temperature. Then goes out and fails to come back until you go outside and hold button down again.
The voltage going to the thermostat reads zero at first check but 7.2 volt after I unplug the igniter(?). Is 7.2V correct? I have a Vulcan with 24V required.
I got the same issue with OP. Let me check the model number tonight.
A technician came yesterday and diagnosed that the ignition pack is faulty and quoted me $600.
I am not such convinced that it can only be replaced.