Sewing Overlocker

[Lalo Scalf]

A4-thread overlock stitch is sewn with two needle threads which essentially sews two rows of stitching in your fabric while the looper threads wrap the edge. This stitch is best used on medium to heavy weight fabrics or on seams that see a bit of stress, such as on fitted garments. When you need flexibility in a seam, as well as durability, the 4-thread overlock is your best bet.

An overlock stitch, regardless of the number of threads you employ, is a great stitch for construction and general edge finishing. You can use this stitch to completely construct a garment and finish the edges simultaneously but you could use it in tandem with your domestic sewing machine. Some seams or fabrics benefit from being pressed open after being sewn in order to reduce bulk. In these cases, overlocking raw edges before construction may be the best bet.

There may be patterns that require extra attention to fit and detail where you prefer to baste seams before committing to a particular fit. In these cases, you may want to construct on the sewing machine before finishing edges on the overlocker.

Needle thread issues can be identified a few different ways. If looper threads can be seen from the front side at the point where the needle is penetrating through the fabric, your needle threads are probably too tight. On this sample, you can see little red dots where our lower looper thread is being pulled too tightly.

Alternatively, if your needle tensions are too loose, those threads will no longer appear as a clean, straight line of stitching. The looper threads will pull needle threads toward the seam allowance, which can be seen on both the front and back side of the fabric.

When needle threads get extremely too loose, it can even cause looping on the front and/or back side of the fabric. On this sample, you can see the little loops of green thread, meaning our right needle is too loose.

Last is tunneling. If your seam allowance is just pulled too tight (or conversely, if both looper threads are hanging loosely off the edge of the fabric), we need to adjust Micro Thread Control, or mtc. This is a lever that controls the stitch finger, a small metal piece that sits under the fabric at the needle area that supports the fabric at the point where looper threads are wrapping the raw edge.

Increasing the mtc (MicroThread Tension) will move the stitch finger out, creating more room between the fabric and the threads and thus reducing tension that results in tunneling. Conversely, reducing mtc moves the stitch finger in, bringing threads closer to the raw edge and eliminates looping.

An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines being called sergers in North America), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.

Overlock sewing machines usually run at high speeds, from 1000 to 9000 rpm, and most are used in industry for edging, hemming and seaming a variety of fabrics and products. Overlock stitches are extremely versatile, as they can be used for decoration, reinforcement, or construction.

J. Makens Merrow and his son Joseph Merrow, who owned a knitting mill established in Connecticut in 1838, developed a number of technological advancements to be used in the mill's operations. Merrow's first patent was a machine for crochet stitching, and the Merrow Machine Company still produces crochet machines based on this original model. This technology was a starting point for the development of the overlock machine, patented by Joseph Merrow in 1889. Unlike standard lockstitching, which uses a bobbin, overlock sewing machines utilize loopers to create thread loops for the needle to pass through, in a manner similar to crocheting. Merrow's original three-thread overedge sewing machine is the forerunner of contemporary overlocking machines. Over time, the Merrow Machine Company pioneered the design of new machines to create a variety of overlock stitches, such as two- and four-thread machines, the one-thread butted seam, and the cutterless emblem edger.

A landmark lawsuit between Willcox & Gibbs and the Merrow Machine Company in 1905 established the ownership and rights to the early mechanical development of overlocking to the Merrow Machine Company.

Throughout the early 20th Century, the areas of Connecticut, US and New York, US were the centres of textile manufacturing and machine production. Consequently, many overlock machine companies established themselves in the Northeastern United States.

In 1964 several engineers and managers at one Japanese manufacturer[which?] redesigned the industrial serger they were currently manufacturing as a smaller, lighter model intended for home use. They presented their concept to their employer, and after it was rejected they quit and formed the Juki Corporation.

Nick Tacony, founder of Tacony Corporation, introduced machinery for producing the overlock stitch (so called "baby lock") to the United States market. This allowed sewing enthusiasts to produce clothing with finishing seams like those made by industrial garment manufacturers.[1]

Overlock stitches are classified in a number of ways. The most basic classification is by the number of threads used in the stitch. Industrial overlock machines are generally made in 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 thread formations. Each of these formations has unique uses and benefits:

Additional variables in the types of overlock stitches are the stitch eccentric, and the stitch width. The stitch eccentric indicates how many stitches per inch there are, which is adjustable and can vary widely within one machine. Different stitch eccentrics create more or less dense and solid-looking edges. The stitch width indicates how wide the stitch is from the edge of the fabric. Lightweight fabrics often require a wider stitch to prevent pulling.

Adding extra variation in stitch types is the differential feed feature, which allows feed to be adjusted; extra-fast feed creates a ruffled or "lettuce-leaf" effect. Finally, some merrowing machines contain parts to roll the fabric edge into the stitch for added durability.

Do you want to give your projects a more professional finish? Are you working with stretchy fabrics and find your sewing machine is not giving you the finish that you desire? Then we have a range of overlockers from well-known brands, Elna, Baby Lock, Brother, Janome, Frister+Rossmann, Husqvarna & Pfaff

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A few weeks ago, a co-worker who knows that I sew approached me to ask me if I have a serger. She wanted to know what a serger is, and if it was something that she should consider buying. I immediately started to show her the inside of my woven skirt with its raw edges finished with a serger, and the inside of my knit top, sewn with a serger. I was very excited for the opportunity to talk about one of my most prized possessions, my Juki MO654DE. By the end of our talk, I think I converted her.

On a 4-thread serger, the upper looper creates the stitch on top of the fabric while the lower looper provides stability. The loopers work like knitting needles; they overcast over the threads of the left and right needles. The left needle sews the first row of stitches, and the right needle, the second row of stitching. Together, loopers secure the stitch at the edge of the fabric once it has been trimmed by the blade. This system allows for strong seams that are properly trimmed and beautifully finished.

1. Beautifully finished raw edges: A raw edge finished with a serger is a thing of beauty. Most of my woven garments are finished like this. Of course, you can finish raw edges without a serger, but it makes the process much faster, and the results are very nice.

1. Cost: A serger is an extra cost. The cheapest sergers come at around $200 depending on where you buy them. This is not an insignificant amount, especially if you are on a tight budget. Sergers also use a ton of thread, so this is another additional cost.

2. Space: Some sewists are blessed with a dedicated sewing room; others, including myself, need to squeeze all they can from a corner of the room. A second machine will definitely take space.

3. Threading: While a sewing machine is pretty simple to get the hang of, sergers can be a bit of a (or a whole lot of) pain. Every time my thread chain breaks, I have to rethread the machine. It took me quite some time to get the hang of threading my serger, and I often need to refer back to the video manual.

If you are asking me, the answer is a resounding YES. Of course, if your sewing machine has a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch, you can sew woven as well as knit fabrics without any problem. The thing with a serger, however, is that it makes sewing life easier. You can give your garments a professional look while being faster and more efficient.

This was my first serger, and it lasted for 10 years. As a first machine, it worked well. If you sew a lot of thick fabrics or multiple layers of fabric, this is not the machine for you. Still, it is a good buy at around $250.

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