On 8/29/24 00:44, Luky Kuky wrote:
Hello,I also want to say that the vyking LDB-1 does not use a 12 power supply. The relay is powered from the telephone line. 12 volts is only for powering the output. By connecting 12 V, 12 V will be given to the output of the relay.
Apparently when a 1A2 system has a call on Hold, the Hold resistor across the line prevents the LDB-1's line sense relay from operating, leaving the A lead open, and the line remains on Hold, and the volume of the call is muted. Hanging up the single-line phone leaves the call on Hold, until someone hangs up the line, or until the other end hangs up, hopefully causing the CO to briefly interrupt the line with a CPC, or Calling Party Control signal (aka "Disconnect Supervision") which will free the line out of Hold automatically, assuming that feature is provided by the CO equipment.Another smaller issue with the LDB-1 is that the relay flutters during rotary dialing of the single-line phone, causing the Line lamp on the 1A2 phones to also flutter during dialing. This is more of a cosmetic issue it seems; dialing works fine, allowing calls to be made successfully. The LDB-2 doesn't have this issue, as it has a timing circuit that keeps the relay triggered when the loop current briefly flutters.
Viking's other product, the LDB-2, has a more sensitive optocoupler circuit (needs 12V to operate) which properly retrieves calls on Hold when the single-line phone goes off-hook. so one can properly pick up a 1A2 call on Hold, and hanging up is also handled properly.
The LDB-2 would be great if not for the fact it ALSO operates during ringing, apparently not an optional feature of that device. AFAIK there's no way to disable this; the manufacturer's recommendation to cut a lead on one of the LDB-2's optocouplers to disable ring detect does not seem to affect it. The manufacturer does recommend trying an LDB-3, which has a way to disable ring detect - I haven't evaluated that device yet, but plan to.
Note that these work by being in series with the telephone line, and will trigger during ringing and dialing unless external components are included, such as the parallel capacitors across the windings to pass AC ringing, as you show in your schematic..
..I am a bit curious to try that; might have to grab a few of those TelTone relays from ebay to do some experiments..! Western Electric had their own custom dual coil reed relay they used on the 400 type line for the line sense "L" relay, which looked like this:
..and can be found on most all of the 400 type line cards that WE provided, AFAIK.
Hello . You can also make the Loop Detector at home not even for $10 . You need relay, capacitor, and phone 😁(one-coil relay is ok, but two-coil relay is better if you have a longer cable so that the loop is not broken ). I am also attaching a wiring diagram.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "seriss-1a2-ksu" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to seriss-1a2-ks...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/seriss-1a2-ksu/17354e97-4742-4d56-a019-bfc658617d38n%40googlegroups.com.
Hello,I also want to say that the vyking LDB-1 does not use a 12 power supply. The relay is powered from the telephone line. 12 volts is only for powering the output. By connecting 12 V, 12 V will be given to the output of the relay.
Goodbye
Lukas
Hello, I tried it and if you use a normal 12 volt relay it's ok. And when it rings, it doesn't respond because the relay is not on AC voltage . And when you dial using DTMF, the relay stays on, but if you dial with pulses and the relay pulses, you need to put a capacitor that has more F(you know what I mean)
Hello, I tried it and if you use a normal 12 volt relay it's ok.
And when it rings, it doesn't respond because the relay is not on AC voltage.
And when you dial using DTMF, the relay stays on, but if you dial with pulses and the relay pulses, you need to put a capacitor that has more F(you know what I mean)
Right, I assume you mean by "F" you're referring to the farads rating of the capacitor, or in the case of most capacitors, micro-farads, usually abbreviated "uF" or "μF".
I'm talking about mine, not the ldb-1
On 8/29/24 12:41, Luky Kuky wrote:
I'm talking about mine, not the ldb-1
Hello, I can't find it exactly but this is the closest I had but in black color
I tried one, and it's a great solution.
.. that pic excerpted from BSP 512-210-103.
So after evaluating the loop detector devices, I think the better way to attach a single line phone to a 1A2 system is with these Motorola units: https://www.ebay.com/itm/330382384390
So apparently the built in piezo ringer in these units won't ring on the Y-S if your KSU uses a diode matrix to program ringing (the standard 1A2 way to program which lines ring which extensions).
It seems no matter which way you polarize the Y-S pair, the unit's piezo ringer doesn't react to half-wave ringing. It only reacts to full wave ringing, which means diodes can't be used.
I've not searched for a practice for this device yet, so I'm not sure if there's some trick one can do to change this other than to bypass diode ringing for this extension at the KSU or diode matrix block. On the Seriss KSU this can be done by jumpering across the "BELL CALL" diodes for that extension.
So that'd be my only beef with this device; not supporting diode matrix ringing. Someone in the Motorola engineering dept dropped the ball on that one..!
On 9/21/24 23:54, Greg Ercolano wrote:
So after evaluating the loop detector devices, I think the better way to attach a single line phone to a 1A2 system is with these Motorola units: https://www.ebay.com/itm/330382384390
Regarding the line buttons, one can easily remove the clear plastic button covers by popping it off with your fingers, and inserting the label and relpacing the cover.
In the unlikely event you need to change a burned out 51a bulb, you have to disassemble the unit. Each bulb has a white diffusion cover that's under the clear plastic button cover which is retained by a plastic bezel that can only be removed by disassembly.
To change the bulbs, take the unit apart:
- Remove the 4 rubber feet (by prying them up to break the rubbery glue)
- Remove the 4 philips screws beneath the rubber feet; they are deep down a narrow plastic channel, and take /many/ turns to remove; the threading pitch is tiny!
- Bend the shells apart.
If you're lucky , there'll be enough play in the cabling that you won't have to cut the two cable strain relief zip ties and later replace.
- Remove the other 4 screws on the back of the line button assembly that hold it in place to the plastic shell, as shown in the disassembly photo below.
At this point the line button assembly and its plastic bezel can be removed, at which point it's easy to remove the clear button cover and diffusion cover to gain access to the bulbs by popping the covers off with your fingers.
To actually remove the bulb, "the usual" clever bulb removal techniques must be used, as the bulbs are buried deep down inside the buttons. Chances are needle nose pliers won't work. I've had good luck removing bulbs by taking a few inches of sheathing from a cat5 network cable, and twisting it down over the bulb, and then popping it out that way. YMMV.