Watch Fast 8

[Yury Morris]

Please help mark the post about reporting this via Feedback - Watch - Apple as helpful, so it appears at the top on the first page. The more people that report it, the higher likelyhood it will be taken seriously.

The thing that bothers me with all of the advice to remove 3rd party apps as that is the problem...seems like most, if not all of us didn't have this problem UNTIL the update to 10.1. Thus, how can the issue be the 3rd party apps? Clearly something changed in 10.1 from 10.0 that caused this excess battery drain. To blame the 3rd party apps seems like a copout.

It is time to realize watchOS 10 is a planned obsolescence strategy via an update. It is a migration that involves execution of a plan that renders older system architectures and batteries obsolete, affecting most S8 and earlier systems. Why else would such a bloated inefficient watchOS 10 be allowed to update everything back to S4 with no way to revert to the previous watchOS that worked perfectly well?

Posted this in another thread. Updated to 10.1 yesterday after charging to 100%. Three hours later was shocked to see low battery alert. Tried to charge in the evening but could only get to 56% after two hours. After a hard restart, it went from 34% to 56% pretty fast. But then it died overnight.

Same for me on a Series 8. I took mine off the charger at 100 percent at 9 p.m., then went to bed. In sleep focus with the screen off and at 1:30 it was totally dead. I've reset and restarted and the drain persists. I've had trouble getting it to charge as well. It sat on the charger for 30 minutes today and lost 1 percent battery. I had to turn on airplane mode to get it to charge and even then it went from 41 to 45 percent in 45 minutes.

As a side note, Apple Technical Support has been consulted twice: online and in-person at an Apple Store Genius Bar. Diagnostics pass, my watch has never been wet, and my S4 is not covered by a warranty.

Parts from a similar movement are not always compatible so we may have a problem there. Check the height of the balance spring and for fouling either the balance rim , the balance cock , or even the fourth wheel, It it magnetised , coils sticking , is the spring breathing ok and evenly. all relavant things to check.

Both hairsprings have same strength, yet the replacement one might be shorter therefore not comptable with the other balance , though its a screw balance, you would be disturbing its static poise as soon as mess with the screws, thence create a bigger problem for yourself. Unpoised balance wheel would result in excessive positional variation and dynmaic instability on wrist . My vote is not to mess with it until you master static poising at least.

Agree with the above changing parts from one movement to another can be problematic. The mainspring could now be too strong also the hairspring is not sitting correctly. The coils should be evenly spaced so when you adjust the regulation arm it adjusts the effective length of the hairspring without altering the hairsprings balance and poise. See pic.

I can try adjust the hairspring. Visually, the hairsprings from both movements looks like same and the diameter of both movements is same . By the way, the beat error is approxx. 3-4, when regulator pin os centered.

The problem with hairsprings are there not sort of interchangeable? If were talking about American pocket watch or some Swiss watches typically with an over coil their pre-made to exacting specifications. They were matched the balance wheel by timing screws on the balance wheel to have the balance wheel exactly calibrated to that hairspring. So for these examples the American or Swiss if you look at the parts list it will actually list a part number for the hairspring it was available separately.

Typically with everything else in the universe whether the balance had screws or not almost universally all flat hairsprings are vibrated to each balance wheel. So all the parts are mass-produced but every single balance wheel gets a unique hairspring for that specific balance wheel only. Yes in the factory every single balance wheel was on a machine and got a unique hairspring just for that balance wheel. That means typically on a parts list for watch you will never see the hairspring it's a balance complete.

This can make things more complicated? Like in addition to the hairspring changing what else did they change? Did they make this watch over a span of time with variations? For instance if we look at the parts list like at the link below we find more than one balance wheel then that is a definite problem probably

Once you get your hairspring centered in you get the balance wheel to run it does look like those are screws perhaps I don't know if the unscrew or not. This means you can possibly add weight or possibly add more screws if they have more screw holes which typically American pocket watches did. In other words you could make adjustments if you're lucky. Is working in a modern balance wheel with no screws then that is an issue if you try to swap a hairspring as there's nothing you can do.

Hi The fact that after servicing and changing parts there are problems it is always best to revert back to the originals where possible and re analyse the problem from that standpoint. In your case it the original balance spring was ruined go back to the original mainspring and start from there to see if there are any changes. The fact that the barrel lid closed doesn't mean a lot other than it fitted in the barrel, it may be binding on the closed lid 0.15 might just be too much.

For the answer of can you use the old mainspring yes you can but? But as the replies of indicated correctly it's no longer sort of functional? In other words you can wind the spring up the watch will run but it will not run for 24 hours and depending upon how badly the mainspring is lost its spring characteristics it may not run very well at all. As far as it's not being flat that's usually the result of people hand winding the spring in putting a severe distortion on it and then the spring gets set in a inappropriate shape. It could also be wouldn't removing it because it's now soft that could also occur.

If the spring was severely distorted by inserting and you look inside the barrel the bottom and the lid should be nice and smooth and still have the plating it probably has if the spring is distorted you put pressure on those parts and you'll see wearing which is not good. The same thing would occur with putting a mainspring that is too tall is that you might utter altogether but it's too tight and you're getting no power out of it.

I snipped out a picture for you depending upon where you're located one number will be more useful than the other the GR number is useful for people ordering from cousins. The number at the very top is a best fit number sometimes that shows up on eBay or particular material house here you can buy it from them providing it's still in stock to do that you have to go to the main webpage enter the number and see what happens and I will do that for you.

It looks like they haven't it's available and this is where you always get a discrepancy between the parts listing which is ancient and the homepage it's $21 but it is available. Here are usually not always but on vintage or older watches mainsprings can be more common like when you look at the link I gave first it shows all the watches that use the same spring more watches on the list the more likely the spring may still be available versus of the spring only goes in one watch then you're probably going to be screwed because nobody will ever have that.

Then if you understand how the numbers work you change the number slightly to something like searching for this on eBay 711P Mainspring I see that one person has it and they'll even taken off for they want five dollars for it. By the packages in its a brand-new white spring exactly what you're looking for. Then you do have to be careful of eBay because later down the page they'll give you other results where they shorten your search term liked the word mainspring because eBay just assumes at all mainsprings will interchange.

For now you could insert the old spring back in knowing that it's not perfect but it's good enough to get the watch running and testing things out it just won't have maximum performance and a run out of energy before 24 hours. But regularly for incoming watches I will do a lot of testing of things with a set spring just because it's there. Then when the watches cleaned and I see how badly set it is I always replace it so it will work with its wound up tight. Which is probably why a lot of people don't change the mainspring is because they don't realize that is going to be a problem hours later when they run out about and then the blame all kinds of other stuff and be really confused over what's going on.

Oh almost forgot yes they look identical the balance wheels will look identical and they will not be identical. The length of the hairspring is extremely critical because of it wasn't critical the factory would just make them and push them on in their good to go. So yes they will all look identical but they will not be identical which is why every single one is vibrated to the specific balance wheel.

but even with the wrong spring the watch should run the balance wheel should turn. Providing they hairspring as you said looks identical you should build a put it in their put the watch in beat setter they hairspring so it's not rubbing on the balance arm or the balance bridge in the watch should run it just won't keep time it may look like crap on the timing machine because ill be off in timekeeping considerably but the balance wheel should run visually really nice.

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