My mom recently upgraded to the M2 mac mini in December 2023. I'd been setting it up with my wired razer mouse and a bluetooth Apple keyboard, and everything was running smoothly until I decided to use my bluetooth Apple mouse instead of my razer mouse. Then weird stuff started happening. After a little while, my mouse would start lagging and skipping. And not long after, I heard clicking noises coming from the mini and the system would sometimes freeze up as would my keyboard.
I've used the mini multiple times before now with no issues. It seems to only be the bluetooth Apple mouse that messes it up. It's not a huge deal, since my mom uses a wired apple keyboard and Logitech mouse. But I found it incredibly concerning especially the clicking thing.
I read a lot of other posts on here that says the Apple mouse in particular does not play well with the M2 Mac mini. Is it just having multiple bluetooth devices going at the same time? Or is it just the Apple mouse that's the issue? I just wanted to make sure the mini isn't defective or something. From what I've read it sounds like it's just the bluetooth. It is an older magic mouse, probably the 1st model as is the compact Apple bluetooth keyboard. This just doesn't seem normal at all. I still use both of them with my 2011 Macbook Pro and don't have this issues. The M2 mini is still running the latest Ventura, because I didn't want to deal with compatibility issues with Adobe stuff yet in Sonoma. Although, I've heard Sonoma doesn't make it any better. Thoughts?
Bluetooth issues can be tricky, but it's not uncommon for certain peripherals to have compatibility problems with specific Mac models or macOS versions. Since your Apple mouse is an older model, it might not be optimized for the M2 Mac mini or the latest macOS version.
If the problem continues, it might be worth reaching out to Apple Support for more specific guidance on your M2 Mac mini and its compatibility with older Bluetooth peripherals. They can provide tailored advice based on the current state of software updates and known issues.
Yes, I also have a 2023 Mac mini, with wireless mouse, keyboard, pad (all apple devices - keyboard & trackpad are the older style battery ones, the mouse is the one you charge every few days with a wire), and a studio display. I also have an apple time capsule which I use for backups.
Ever since new, periodically, I get the laggy mouse, and usually turning the trackpad on & off fixes it. But not today. Nothing worked, I could hear the clicking from the Mac, but not way of finding what was the issue - so I had to power the Mac off (not an ideal solution). However, trying to follow the instructions, there is no "System Preferences" > "Bluetooth" > "Advanced" > "Reset Bluetooth Module."
I have just purchased a brand new Mac Mini and App Wireless Keyboard. Unfortunately upon first boot, the Mac Mini is requesting I connect my bluetooth keyboard by switching it on, however even though the green light flashes, after the 5 second startup acknowledgement, there is no response from the Mac Mini.
To confirm the keyboard is working, I have successfully paired it with my MacBook. I do not have a USB Keyboard or Mouse and without purchasing additional hardware, do you have any suggestions to work around this problem?
I will do the following if the brand new Mac can't pickup the bluetooth connection, but make sure the bluetooth keyboard and mouse is not yet paired with other computer, that means you have to un-pair the keyboard and mouse from your MacBook before you perform the follow step:
- Switch on the Keyboard and Mouse first, make sure both devices have a green light flashes (the light flashed at intervals, like a pulse **...**...sorry my poor English), that means the devices is discoverable.
If the method still doesn't work, the worst case is: i'm afraid you have to connect wired keyboard and mouse to finish the Setup Assistant, and pair both bluetooth devices by Bluetooth Preferences. Once both bluetooth devices connected, disconnect wired keyboard and mouse.
OK - New to all this so please be kind to me. I'm trying to interface an HC-06 Bluetooth transceiver with a DFRobot DFPlayer Mini and aN L298N motor shield to provide remote control (from a RoboRemo app) for a large scale model locomotive with sound - using a Nano
GE_Rik:
OK - New to all this so please be kind to me. I'm trying to interface an HC-06 Bluetooth transceiver with a
I've included libraries for the DFPlayer, and AltSoftSerial to try and cope with the two serial devices (Bluetooth and Player) - but hit a dead end.
The Mini and the Nano have essentially the same capability so using one in preference to the other is not going to solve whatever your problem might be. If you have a Nano and it will fit where you want to use it, you might as well stick with it as it is probably more convenient.
You are using two software serial libraries, which might not be such a good idea, and you aren't using hardware serial at all, which is probably a bad idea. Putting one of the devices on hardware serial will absolve you from using one of the software serial libraries. All you need do is ensure that the serial device is disconnected when you upload the programe. You might also check if altsoftserial can run more than one port.
My posting a message here may amount to hijacking the current thread, which is not my intent. I'm using a Tinycircuits ble board. I'm using raspberry pi to try to program the Tinycircuits board (also called Tinyduino), because my Windows PC is in horrible shape. I don't know if anyone will take on this, or would someone prefer I start a new thread.The little "blink" program works fine with the Tinycircuits setup, but the ble (bluetooth low energy) is giving me fits. I didn't mean to musle in here, maybe someone can help.
Grumpy_Mike:
You might think that description tells us what you want to do. Unfortunately it puzzles me. Can you draw a block diagram of what you think you want to connect to what, and also show the Arduino.
The system will now not respond to the Bluetooth app - no response from the motor or the Player. I assumed it was because I was using two serial devices - and so used AltSoftSerial to communicate with HC-06. AltSoftSerial uses the timer on Pin 10 but the FPlayer library uses P10 so I wondered if there was a clash there.
Nick_Pyner:
The Mini and the Nano have essentially the same capability so using one in preference to the other is not going to solve whatever your problem might be. If you have a Nano and it will fit where you want to use it, you might as well stick with it as it is probably more convenient.
Thanks, that's helpful. I'll give the hardware port a try - I'll attach the HC-06 via a socket. I assumed AltSoftSerial was able to use more than one port but as I say, I'm still a bit new to all this.
You really should post links to your hardware. I would worry about the power arrangements. Is there a 5V regulator on the motor drive control? Otherwise where is the 5V coming from? Likewise is your DF player happy with 5V? They normally take 3V3.
Sorry Mike
I make the assumption that everyone knows all this stuff while I'm the numpty. Here's the blurb for the Player - -dfr-562_-_dfplayer_mini_mp3_player.pdf - it shows 5v supply. Also, interestingly, they use Pins 0 and 1 for their serial connection.
I don't kbnow anything about DFPlayer, but I would guess that there is good reason for having it on hardware serial, while Bluetooth is just for control and should be OK on software serial @9600 baud.
If you DO use hardware serial for Bluetooth, that link won't help much. It has Bluetooth on software serial. Also it is good practice to have a 1k/2k voltage divider on Arduino Tx. You might find the following background notes useful.
Thanks for those links, chaps. Interesting reading particularly the info about master and slave on the hc-05. A big limitation for me in trying to use a phone app for controlling trains out in the garden is sunlight on the screen. Ultimately, I'd prefer to replace the phone app with some hardware so a BT master transceiver would be useful.
If you were referring to my reply#12, I was alluding to the Tx line from Arduino to Bluetooth, which has nothing to do with the DF player. This divider brings the 5v Tx down to 3.3v which is the working voltage for Bluetooth as is shown on the back of the board. Checking examples in Google Images, you will see that about half of them don't bother with it. Indeed, I was running Bluetooth for at least a couple of years before I even knew about this. Nonetheless, it is still "good practice", as I said. Note that Arduino Rx has no problem receiving 3.3v from Bluetooth.
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