Re: [Sea Spray Forum] Digest for seasprayquestions@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic
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stor...@vip.net
Aug 30, 2017, 2:12:17 PM8/30/17
to seaspray...@googlegroups.com
On 2017-08-29 6:03, seaspray...@googlegroups.com wrote:
> seaspray...@googlegroups.com [1]
Hi Eric:
Quite a few questions in your e mail. Doing a rebuild or retrofit of a
Sea Spray can be a bit of a challenge but if done correctly is quite
rewarding. You seem to have read information contained on the web site
so I will try to answer your questions.
To lift a deck it should take about an hour if things go well. I
usually start at the rear. Once started by inserting a knife blade and
going forward about 12 inches you may be able to lift the deck off by
slipping a hand under each side and lifting gently. This should get you
up to the dagger board slot area. If you are really lucky you might be
able to lift the deck and have the dagger board area come free. More
likely you will need to saw the dagger board casing using a carpenter's
handsaw or cutting blade on a dremel.
An option here would be to leave the dagger board housing intact and
lift the forward section of the deck, By starting at the back you will
have discovered that the deck seam is really quite thin and now will be
able to find the seam in the foredeck.
The bow tube casting was changed in latter Sea Sprays and fits on top of
the deck while the older boats are fitted through the deck with two
holes drilled for bridle wire and bow tube. If you have a newer Sea
Spray you will need to remove the fitting to be able to lift the deck.
If older leave the fitting and separate the deck from the hull starting
about 12 inches from the bow and work forward carefully. Once you are
able to slip your hands between the deck and hull again lift gently and
the deck should come free.
Lift it back to the dagger board casing and then make the decision to
either stop there or to saw through the dagger board case. If you are
going to saw so the entire deck is removed lift the deck from the hull
on both sides, slip a saw into the space between deck and hull and cut
through the casing. Do not try to saw the seam open as you will create
a major repair problem.
To replace the deck I would stick with fiberglass. I use epoxy as the
fumes from the polyester resin are quite strong and it also tends to set
in a very short time compared to the epoxy. I cut strips of mat the
width of the lip of hull and deck. Be sure to sand and repair any
damage done when lifting the deck. Note: at one time the boats had
plastic bumper material similar to the material sometimes used for door
edges that was riveted along the edges the decks. This tended to break
and did not seal the decks.
If you were to use gasket material and rivets you would likely find
making sure the seal worked a large number of rivets would be required.
Drilling them out if you needed to reopen the deck could be a major task
which woould likely take about the same amount of time as the fiberglass
method.
Once you have removed the foam it would be a good idea to add some empty
one gallon containers or closed cell foam. I usually don't as I am
trying to keep weight to a minimum.
For the ribs I would use a dremel to open up the bottom of them. If
the ribs are filled with foam and are one inch or so and round you may
be able to remove the foam with a hand held and driven toilet auger. I
recall doing this on a couple of boats
Finally I wish you the best and hopefully will meet you on the water.
Stan Storwick
to get your help with several repairs and mods to my Sea
> Spray.
> I've reviewed the pages on the Sea Spray Association website and have
> a
> few more questions that I'd like some help with. I'm new to
> fibreglass
> repairs.
>
> Approximately how much time does it take to disassemble the decks?
> Time
> for re-assembly?
>
> Do you know of anyone who's re-assembled the decks using gasket and
> rivets,
> vice fiberglass? If I'm going to dismantle them I want to put them
> back
> together in a way that lets me dismantle them much easier in the
> future.
> Any suggestions for gasket material?
>
> The forward portions of my decks are fused to the hulls very
> securely;
> there is no seam as far as I can tell. Apart from what is suggested
> on the
> SeaSpray blog should I use heat or anything else to help separate the
> decks
> from the hulls?
>
> Looking at the slots for my daggerboards, it appears that the deck
> has a
> sleeve that fits down approximately 1-inch into the upper portion of
> the
> slots. I'm hoping that I don't have to saw the slots to get the decks
> off;
> ideally the decks come off the slots without too much trouble. Any
> advice
> on how to remove the decks from the slots without resorting to sawing
> them
> apart?
>
> After removing the flotation foam, did anyone install something to
> assist
> with flotation in the event of capsizing such as empty plastic water
> bottles with caps on? Do you have any photos of this improvised
> flotation
> along with how it was installed?
>
> For water access holes drilled in the bottoms of the ribs, how do I
> avoid
> drilling into the bottom of the hulls? Do I need to use any special
> tooling to make these holes? Do I apply any special coating to the
> insides
> of the access holes to prevent water from seeping into the hull
> structure
> or the foam core inside each of the ribs?
>
> Any other details on hull repairs, apart from what is mentioned in
> the
> SeaSpray Association blog and photos will be greatly appreciated!
>
> Back to top
>
> You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for
> this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page
> [4].
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send
> an email to seasprayquesti...@googlegroups.com.
>
>
>
> Links:
> ------
> [1]
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/seasprayquestions/topics
> [2]
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email/#!overview
> [3]
> http://groups.google.com/group/seasprayquestions/t/861342bebf3681e6?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email
> [4]
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/seasprayquestions/join
> seaspray...@googlegroups.com [1]
Hi Eric:
Quite a few questions in your e mail. Doing a rebuild or retrofit of a
Sea Spray can be a bit of a challenge but if done correctly is quite
rewarding. You seem to have read information contained on the web site
so I will try to answer your questions.
To lift a deck it should take about an hour if things go well. I
usually start at the rear. Once started by inserting a knife blade and
going forward about 12 inches you may be able to lift the deck off by
slipping a hand under each side and lifting gently. This should get you
up to the dagger board slot area. If you are really lucky you might be
able to lift the deck and have the dagger board area come free. More
likely you will need to saw the dagger board casing using a carpenter's
handsaw or cutting blade on a dremel.
An option here would be to leave the dagger board housing intact and
lift the forward section of the deck, By starting at the back you will
have discovered that the deck seam is really quite thin and now will be
able to find the seam in the foredeck.
The bow tube casting was changed in latter Sea Sprays and fits on top of
the deck while the older boats are fitted through the deck with two
holes drilled for bridle wire and bow tube. If you have a newer Sea
Spray you will need to remove the fitting to be able to lift the deck.
If older leave the fitting and separate the deck from the hull starting
about 12 inches from the bow and work forward carefully. Once you are
able to slip your hands between the deck and hull again lift gently and
the deck should come free.
Lift it back to the dagger board casing and then make the decision to
either stop there or to saw through the dagger board case. If you are
going to saw so the entire deck is removed lift the deck from the hull
on both sides, slip a saw into the space between deck and hull and cut
through the casing. Do not try to saw the seam open as you will create
a major repair problem.
To replace the deck I would stick with fiberglass. I use epoxy as the
fumes from the polyester resin are quite strong and it also tends to set
in a very short time compared to the epoxy. I cut strips of mat the
width of the lip of hull and deck. Be sure to sand and repair any
damage done when lifting the deck. Note: at one time the boats had
plastic bumper material similar to the material sometimes used for door
edges that was riveted along the edges the decks. This tended to break
and did not seal the decks.
If you were to use gasket material and rivets you would likely find
making sure the seal worked a large number of rivets would be required.
Drilling them out if you needed to reopen the deck could be a major task
which woould likely take about the same amount of time as the fiberglass
method.
Once you have removed the foam it would be a good idea to add some empty
one gallon containers or closed cell foam. I usually don't as I am
trying to keep weight to a minimum.
For the ribs I would use a dremel to open up the bottom of them. If
the ribs are filled with foam and are one inch or so and round you may
be able to remove the foam with a hand held and driven toilet auger. I
recall doing this on a couple of boats
Finally I wish you the best and hopefully will meet you on the water.
Stan Storwick
to get your help with several repairs and mods to my Sea
> Spray.
> I've reviewed the pages on the Sea Spray Association website and have
> a
> few more questions that I'd like some help with. I'm new to
> fibreglass
> repairs.
>
> Approximately how much time does it take to disassemble the decks?
> Time
> for re-assembly?
>
> Do you know of anyone who's re-assembled the decks using gasket and
> rivets,
> vice fiberglass? If I'm going to dismantle them I want to put them
> back
> together in a way that lets me dismantle them much easier in the
> future.
> Any suggestions for gasket material?
>
> The forward portions of my decks are fused to the hulls very
> securely;
> there is no seam as far as I can tell. Apart from what is suggested
> on the
> SeaSpray blog should I use heat or anything else to help separate the
> decks
> from the hulls?
>
> Looking at the slots for my daggerboards, it appears that the deck
> has a
> sleeve that fits down approximately 1-inch into the upper portion of
> the
> slots. I'm hoping that I don't have to saw the slots to get the decks
> off;
> ideally the decks come off the slots without too much trouble. Any
> advice
> on how to remove the decks from the slots without resorting to sawing
> them
> apart?
>
> After removing the flotation foam, did anyone install something to
> assist
> with flotation in the event of capsizing such as empty plastic water
> bottles with caps on? Do you have any photos of this improvised
> flotation
> along with how it was installed?
>
> For water access holes drilled in the bottoms of the ribs, how do I
> avoid
> drilling into the bottom of the hulls? Do I need to use any special
> tooling to make these holes? Do I apply any special coating to the
> insides
> of the access holes to prevent water from seeping into the hull
> structure
> or the foam core inside each of the ribs?
>
> Any other details on hull repairs, apart from what is mentioned in
> the
> SeaSpray Association blog and photos will be greatly appreciated!
>
> Back to top
>
> You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for
> this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page
> [4].
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send
> an email to seasprayquesti...@googlegroups.com.
>
>
>
> Links:
> ------
> [1]
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/seasprayquestions/topics
> [2]
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email/#!overview
> [3]
> http://groups.google.com/group/seasprayquestions/t/861342bebf3681e6?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email
> [4]
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/seasprayquestions/join
Eric North
Sep 2, 2017, 1:40:24 PM9/2/17
to Sea Spray Questions
Thank-you very much for this information! I'll look for help from a friend or two prior to starting any work on my boat as I'm new to fiberglass repairs. We have a few people up here at 4 Wing who I'm hoping to get help from.
Are you related to Paul by any chance? He's helped our Squadrons a tremendous amount here in Cold Lake.
Take care and have a great Long Weekend,
Eric
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