Is Adobe Photoshop 7.0 Good

[Tina Larzelere]

Isthis RTX 3060Ti the cheapest option that could deal with basic Pet Portrait editing on Photoshop? Well, if that's the case I (and I am not doubting you at all!!) then I am going to have to wait quite a while and save up, thanks!!

I have just spoken to someone who builds computers and he has recommended the exact same card you did - not that I was doubting you, but it is great to know I am talking to someone who may build my machine that knows what they are talking about.

I have an RTX 2060 installed, and it works OK, but I am not sure how long it will last. In my opinion, the RTX 2060 is the minimum you can go for, as it is the first RTX GPU from NVIDIA and they still support it with updates. Usually, vendors support the last three generations. I guess the 20 series will be end of life when the RTX 50 series or MRTX or whatever they decide to call them come out.

Either way, it's important that you have enough disk space. A 1 TB NVMe system drive (that's the kind you plug directly into the motherboard) will be pretty much optimal. You can put OS/applications there, as well as the all-important Photoshop scratch disk.

Oh I know it would be better to go with 32GB ram....so would 64gb!! In a few weeks, I could afford this system....just. It would be used to run Photoshop and would have no other programmes on it at all, I would use my other computer for everything else. Thanks!

The 2700 is good but will probably be where your bottleneck is for photoshop due to age. The 3050 will be a big help to offload some of the processing. You don't need 32gb of RAM unless you are doing more in depth stuff with larger files.

@Md. Asraful37919139auys you're using a non-genuine/pirated copy of Photoshop, we can't help you any further, there in no such thing as a "Perpetual Volume Licence" for Adobe Creative Cloud apps, Photoshop is available on subscription only

Looking at your first example, the lightest parts of the image -- unprinted paper -- are actually a light grey and the darkest -- 'black' ink -- are a mid grey. And there's "blotchiness" in the lightest areas caused by the texture of the paper. One accepts this when viewing the original on paper, but not when viewing on screen, or when reproduced in higher quality print.

In Photoshop (sorry, not familiar with the Gimp, but I'm sure it's a similar process), I add a Levels adjustment layer to avoid altering the original pixel values, and then use the white point and black point sliders to "clip" the lightest and darkest points of the image to pure white and black. There's are eyedropper tools in the dialog for setting these points by sampling from the image, but it's easier to adjust the sliders manually.

Depending on context, I might add the paper colour back in as a a very light grey underlying layer, then set the scan layer's blending mode to "Multiply". This is essential if the original is printed on coloured paper, like the Financial Times.

its old school, but put a sheet of black paper behind the newspaper. A lot of the issues are caused by the fact that newsprint is thin poor quality paper. The scanner sees the front and the back of the page at the same time. Black paper matches the black ink and makes the "back" side of the newsprint disappear.

For best quality, you basically choose the right resolution (the same as the print) and scan using a descreening filter (often available in your scanner software). You can then apply a despeckling filter (like median) to remove most of the remaining artefacts.

Jim's tip of using a black paper behind the newspaper is very useful. In my opinion, any not too too old scanners are good enough to scan newspapers. The main problem is that newspaper is printed in low quality on poor quality paper comparing with photos. This problem can be resolved by software like photoshop.

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