I'm not exactly a gram weenie, but I come down on the side of as light as reasonable possible. That's because I like to ride with others, and whenever the hill tips up, I'm in jeopardy of losing the group I'm with.
It's often said that rather than drop x grams from your bike, you should eat one less cupcake and get the weight off your body. While it's certainly helpful to drop weight from your body, you can do both. It will make a huge difference if you can lose 5 pounds of fat and also 5 pounds of unnecessary bike weight.
You can have a reasonably light bike, and still one that includes the gear you need for longer treks. Litespeed used to make a tourer called Blue Ridge with rear eyelets for racks. You should be able to find one on ebay. Listen to what everyone says, then make up you mind what you think will work for you. Good luck, and hope to see you on the road. --- On Thu, 7/31/08, Chris <Four...@gmail.com> wrote: |
I pointed this out to someone once and they responded "Your bike won't
gain the weight back" :)
I'm a newer cyclist myself, just over two years now, so I'll pitch in my two cents worth.
From what I have heard from other cyclists and most LBS, fit is more important than just about anything else, and especially true the longer the ride. If the bike is not comfortable, your going to want to get off it, and be pretty miserable when the 100 mile mark is only half the ride.
I'm doing my first brevet in a couple of weeks, so I'd like to know what the veterans think, but I would guess that weight does matter, since they are self supported you are packing some extra gear and already adding some weight to the bike.
Many companies now make some kind of "plush road" where they keep the weight down, but add ride dampening features to offset the harshness.
I see you live in Sabre Springs. May I suggest asking the guys a Black Mountain Bikes what they think? They have been great to me since I got involved in cycling.
(I don't work there, they don't pay me).
Good luck with whatever you decide.
-Steve
Personally I keep coming back to my carbon Trek even though
I have a stable of other bikes from Ti racer to steel
touring to choose from. Of course, my body position with my
current Trek setup looks a little strange compared with the
way Lance had his bike set up in 2002! A 3" stem steerer
extension and very short 80mm stem solved the reach problem
for me, but the steering does now act at bit quickly -- it
might not be acceptable to everyone. But the the bike planes
well over a wide range and the carbon, though stiff where it
needs to be, absorbs road buzz better than anything else
I've ridden. With its light weight and wheels, it keeps
winning out. The only problems are with figuring out ways
to mount gear on a carbon frame, and the lack of fenders for
wet weather and no possibility of mounting them.
Ironically, my second choice is my steel Bianchi Eros light
tourer -- light only in concept since it weighs nearly 25
lbs stripped! But its got all the necessary eyelets and
brazeons, with fenders mounted for wet weather. Also, 25mm
instead of 23mm tires. Its a very smooth ride, though not
quite as good and different from the Trek. A minor oddity
is that it goes on to a plane all of a sudden and takes just
a bit of effort to keep it there -- it sort of surprizes you
and you say to yourself-- oh yeh -- when it happens.
Although its far from being a Moots, its a lot like many of
the bikes I've seen from Colorado and the Northwest where
they don't have the luxury of being able to count on good
weather.
As to tires, I've been going with less pressure -- just
enough (what ever that could possibly be) to avoid pinch
flats -- right now about 83# front /95# rear for my 170#.
According to Jan Heine's studies, this usually reduces
rolling resistance on all but the smoothest surfaces. I'm
also toying with the idea, next time I change rubber, of
putting 25mm tires on the Trek to see if that will smooth it
out even more, and going to 28mm on the Bianchi and others
with sufficient clearance.
For me, on a brevet everything hurts at one point or
another -- usually its my butt first at somewhere between 70
and 100 miles. But I just keep going, and 7-8 miles later
it'll be something else. Some might say that I need to work
some more on fit, but I've done a lot of that and now think
that it is an indication that fit is right but the static
position that we're locked into on long rides takes a toll
everywhere. As a result, I make it a point to shift my hand
positions almost constantly and to stand up a lot, and maybe
even stretch a bit while rolling along.
Dion Dyer
If you're not too keen on a bent yet, and are budget minded, look at the
Surly LHT and Cross Check. Great bikes that are a good bang for the buck.
Mark