On 3/20/2013 5:15 PM, Evan Kirshenbaum wrote:
> "Peter T. Daniels" <
gram...@verizon.net> writes:
>
>> On Mar 20, 1:01 pm, Evan Kirshenbaum <
evan.kirshenb...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>> "Peter T. Daniels" <
gramma...@verizon.net> writes:
>>>> On Mar 20, 11:19 am, R H Draney <
dadoc...@spamcop.net> wrote:
>>>>> Peter T. Daniels filted:
>>>
>>>>>> My objection is to "beef sauce." The collocation is uninterpretable.
>>>>>> Normally it would mean 'sauce for beef', but that's not the case, so
>>>>>> there's nothing else it could mean but 'sauce made of beef', which is
>>>>>> absurd.
>>>
>>>>> Ever heard of "soy sauce"?...r
>>>
>>>> do you put soy sauce on your spaghetti?
>>>
>>> No, clearly he puts it on his soy. Just as he puts clam sauce on his
>>> clams, oyster sauce on his oysters, tomato sauce on his tomatoes,
>>> lobster sauce on his lobster, black bean sauce on his black beans,
>>> orange sauce on his oranges, etc.
>>
>> A little careless of you -- lobster sauce is indeed sauce designed for
>> lobster, not sauce with lobster in it.
>
> Interesting. I knew it didn't actually have lobster in it, at least
> as served in the US, but I didn't know it was a sauce designed for
> lobster. I had figured that it was originally made with lobster, but
> chefs had found a way of making something that tasted similar with
> cheaper ingredients.
>
> On the other hand, Wikipedia says that it "may have" gotten that name
> due to being derived from a family of sauces that were poured over
> stir-fried lobster, and follows that with a "citation needed".
>
> Actually, if I was being picky, I could note that there are quite a
> few recipes for "lobster sauce" in other cuisines that do, indeed,
> contain lobster. (For instance, the recipe in Raquel Roque's _The
> Cuban Kitchen_, Sophia Lindhal's _The Swedish-American Cookbook_, or
> Olive Green's, _How to Cook Fish_.) But the Chinese sauce was the one
> I was thinking of.
>
> On the other other hand:
>
> When the recipe arrived, I was puzzled that it didn't include
> lobster. So I called Kim. She explained that long ago, lobster
> shells were used to make the sauce for this dish. But the majority
> of restaurants now simply use a "creamy" sauce.
>
> so perhaps it's not really clear why the sauce got that name.
Not likely.
First of all, most Chinese cuisines (Cantonese included)
do not have a "sauce" in the French sense. What is
there is thickened jus. Near the end of stir-frying
(or braising, etc), a small amount of a starch (corn
starch, tapioca flour, etc) is mixed with water and
then stirred into the wok to thicken the jus. The
idea is to not waste the flavors in the jus by
thickening it and coating the food chunks with it.
Black bean sauce, hoisin sauce, oyster (flavored)
sauce etc are pre-made like steak sauce. They are
mainly for cooking, though some of them can also be
used directly on cooked food.
Second, when stir-frying chunks of lobsters or crabs
(with shells, always), it is a common technique to
add seasoned ground pork so that the meat flavor and
seafood flavor would complement each other. The
small pieces of meat also helps to spread heat more
evenly and carry the jus into the crevices between
the shell and the meat. And since pork is cheaper
than lobsters or crabs, this also makes a dish more
substantial in an inexpensive way. Egg or egg white
is sometimes added to the ground pork.
So that is the nature of "lobster sauce" in authentic
Cantonese cuisine. It is just a cooking method, and
not specifically for lobsters.
I don't know when this became a pour-over sauce for
shrimps.
I suppose if a restaurant also serves shelled lobster,
the chef might start this pour-over sauce with a stock
made with lobster shells. Otherwise there is really
no way to get lobster shells cheaply.
>> Cf. the Cantonese menu standard "shrimp with lobster sauce," one of
>> my favorites in the 1950s when Charlie Chan -style Chinese
>> restaurants were the only ones there were. (Now they're almost all
>> gone.)
Tak
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