Thanks in advance,
John
Perhaps you can get a solder head for the blowtorch.
I'd consider making a fold joint. If you are shielding with it then you don't
want a seam down the line that is just a melted zone. Have the melts before
and after or only on the outside.
Only on the outside - make two L shapes - but up the edges so you have a small
section in the seam and crimp then solder. Or do a lap joint and solder both
sides as one overrides the other to seal off the joint.
Remember lead vapor is not nice. Keep it off the hands also.
The application is not known - but roofing companies that do copper crimp
standing seams. They have the hand tools and the lead pots and irons.
Martin
Unfortunately, the lead is in a state of decay (MUCH oxidation all over the
box), so I have been trying to handle it as little as possible and plan to
place it inside 2-3 mil plastic bags once I have the piece back in place. I
will still be able to use the box in the bags.
I have used 2 part store bought epoxies on other types of metals with pretty
good success in the past and wondered, if I lapped over the joints and
applied epoxy between them, would the mend hold? If epoxies can work, which
would be the best?
Thanks in advance and thanks for the initial reply.
John
"Martin H. Eastburn" <lion...@consolidated.net> wrote in message
news:6m9el.48061$pp1....@en-nntp-06.dc1.easynews.com...
Martin
fold a seam, then fuse a bead, much like you see with tigged aluminum,
with a [small] oxy-acetylene torch. you'll need to extensively deoxidize,
maybe flux first.
have you ever /seen/ lead being soldered??? [rhetorical] no, you're just
guessing. why?
Martin
which is not soldering, it's simply fusing!