How to setup for aluminum on the Thermal Arc 185tsw
Dan Tucker
looking for somewhere within all the posts but I am trying to get an
initial setup that is tried and true with the Thermal Arc 185TSW
machine on aluminum!
I have not ever TIG welded before! So I have no idea where to set all
the settings for 1/8" aluminum flat stock. I just want to practice
running some beads on a complete proven setup for the TA 185TSW.
Pulse (Yes or No)
AC - I am sure this is Yes
Pre Flow =
Hot Start=
Initial Current=
Up Slope=
Peak Current=
Base=
Pulse Width=
Pulse Freq.=
Crater Current=
AC Freq=
Wave Balance=
Stick, HF, Lift= Probably HF
Std, Slope, Repeat, Spot=
Spot Time=
Tungston Type=
Filler Type=
Filler Size=
Argon Flow (CFH)=
Anything else that might make my day easier=
To any that respond, yes I have talked to Ernie and he has given me
great advise, I just want someone that has a complete setup for this
situation with this specific machine. So thank you all and whoever
responds...thank you in advance.
Dan Tucker
New Owner of Thermal Arc 185TSW
Sisters, Oregon
Jeff Dantzler
> I know that there is probably every bit of information that I am
> looking for somewhere within all the posts but I am trying to get an
> initial setup that is tried and true with the Thermal Arc 185TSW
> machine on aluminum!
> I have not ever TIG welded before! So I have no idea where to set all
> the settings for 1/8" aluminum flat stock. I just want to practice
> running some beads on a complete proven setup for the TA 185TSW.
Start just using the foot pedal to control amperage. Don't worry
about pulsing or using the slope function. These will become useful
as you get better at it, but will introduce too many variables
right now.
> Pulse (Yes or No)
No
> AC - I am sure this is Yes
Yes AC.
> Pre Flow =
1-2 seconds
Skip the next paramneters.
> Hot Start=
> Initial Current=
> Up Slope=
> Peak Current=
> Base=
> Pulse Width=
> Pulse Freq.=
> Crater Current=
> AC Freq=
Try 60 Hz although this can be varied to
change how the puddle behaves.
> Wave Balance=
Try 50% but this also can be varied depending
on how clean or thin the aluminum is
> Stick, HF, Lift= Probably HF
You want HF mode.
> Std, Slope, Repeat, Spot=
> Spot Time=
You want Std.
> Tungston Type=
3/32" or 1/8" lanthanated. pure tungsten or zirconated
if you can't find lanthanated
> Filler Type=
depends on your base metal aluminum alloy
common fillers are 4043 and 5356
4043 works fine on 6063 aluminum
> Filler Size=
1/16"
> Argon Flow (CFH)=
15-20 cfh
> Anything else that might make my day easier=
Amperage = 125 - 140 Amps
Post Flow = 10 seconds
Lots of practice
Check this link out (all one one line of course):
http://www.thefabricator.com/xp/Fabricator/Articles/Welding/Article33/
Article33_p1.xml
I'm sure you'll get more advice, but this will get you started.
By the way, most of this is in the manual on page 36. If you don't
have one, you can find it on the TA site as a .PDF download.
Have fun!
Jeff Dantzler
Ernie Leimkuhler
Tucker <dnbt...@aol.com> wrote:
> I know that there is probably every bit of information that I am
> looking for somewhere within all the posts but I am trying to get an
> initial setup that is tried and true with the Thermal Arc 185TSW
> machine on aluminum!
>
> I have not ever TIG welded before! So I have no idea where to set all
> the settings for 1/8" aluminum flat stock. I just want to practice
> running some beads on a complete proven setup for the TA 185TSW.
>
> Pulse (Yes or No)
>
For now: NO
> AC - I am sure this is Yes
>
Correct
> Pre Flow =
> Hot Start=
> Initial Current=
> Up Slope=
> Base=
> Crater Current=
> Std, Slope, Repeat, Spot=
> Spot Time=
Skip all of the above for now.
They are part of the sequencer which CANNOT be accessed with a foot
pedal controller.
You need a separate hand controller to access the sequencer.
> Peak Current=
> Pulse Width=
> Pulse Freq.=
Those are your pulser settings.
Skip them for now.
Later on you can try them out with these starter settings
Background current 40% - 50%
Pulse Width 40% - 50%
Pulse Frequency 1 - 1.5 PPS (Pulses Per Second)
> AC Freq=
100-150 hz
> Wave Balance=
30%
> Stick, HF, Lift= Probably HF
HF Continuous
>
> Tungsten Type=
Zirconiated or Lanthanated ground to a point
> Filler Type=
4043 or 5356
> Filler Size=
for 1/16" to 1/8" base metal 1/16" filler
for 1/8" to 1/4" base metal 3/32" filler
> Argon Flow (CFH)=
Standard Collet Body 20-25 cfh
Gas Lens Collet Body 10-12 cfh
>
> Anything else that might make my day easier=
>
Take a TIG class at a local community college.
>
> To any that respond, yes I have talked to Ernie and he has given me
> great advise,
Watch out for that Ernie guy.
Real cocky, and a bit arrogant about TIG stuff.
I suppose he can be useful, but you knowthose know-it-all types...
Oh wait....that's me.
Never mind.
breezed
"Zirconiated or Lanthanated ground to a point"
I've only played with aluminum a couple times (and hope to be picking
up this very welder for that capability), but I thought you wanted to
ball (please refrain from the obvious) the tip of the tungsten for
aluminum?
Mr Wizzard
"Jeff Dantzler" <dant...@nospam78.com> wrote in message
news:1084287929.103173@yasure...
> Dan Tucker <dnbt...@aol.com> wrote:
> Post Flow = 10 seconds
Wow, this seems pretty long,
can you explain why this should
be this long? I'm brand new to
al TIG and have a new 185STW
too, and only run my post flow
till most of the red glow is gone,
like 4-5 seconds max. (just trying
to conserve gas I guess since I
danced thru my first cylinder in
record time, and handed up having
to go to bigger cylinders)
Thanks.
Mr Wizzard
"breezed" <bre...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:7989-40A...@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net...
I think he's right - with a very pointed tip,
it balls up real nice in the first coulpla
seconds on A/C. I use the Lanthanated
tungsten now after reading all about the
dangers of 2% Thoriated stuff - seems
people should mention some standard
disclaimer on the dangers whenever a
newbie mentions using thoriated tungsten,
and tungsten grinding (and its dust etc.)
>
Jeff Dantzler
> "Jeff Dantzler" <dant...@nospam78.com> wrote in message
> > Post Flow = 10 seconds
> Wow, this seems pretty long,
> can you explain why this should
> be this long? I'm brand new to
> al TIG and have a new 185STW
> too, and only run my post flow
> till most of the red glow is gone,
> like 4-5 seconds max. (just trying
> to conserve gas I guess since I
> danced thru my first cylinder in
> record time, and handed up having
> to go to bigger cylinders)
This number stuck in my head from class and is what I use
for mild steel. I think you want to let the tungsten cool
a bit past the not-glowing-red stage. Also--keep the torch
on the work to shield the weld as it cools.
Higher amperages and DCEP may require even longer post
flow times.
The gas lense noticably helps reduce gas consumption.
I sucked up and bought a 249 cu ft bottle just because
I hate lugging them around more often than I have to.
Jeff Dantzler
Ernie Leimkuhler
<bre...@webtv.net> wrote:
Inverters are very different .
With a transformer machine your tungsten will ball up automatically on
AC, whether you like it or not.
I recommend forming that ball over a block of copper using DCEP, then
switch to AC for the welding.
This way you will get a more spherical ball.
With an inverter, if you increase the output AC wave frequency, you can
weld aluminum with a pointed tungsten.
The Thermal Arc 185TSW maxes out at 150hz on the output AC wave
frequency.
I think the Miller Dynasty 200DX goes up to 200hz.
The higher the frequency, the easier it is on your tungsten tip.
Also the higher the frequency the narrower your arc is.
This is especially good for fillet welds on aluminum.
breezed
"With an inverter, if you increase the output AC wave frequency, you
can weld aluminum with a pointed tungsten."
Me:
"Ah."
Me again:
So do you keep a long taper for the point, or is it better to have a
shorter taper? Or does it matter at all?
Ernie Leimkuhler
<bre...@webtv.net> wrote:
Normal taper.
2.5 - 3.0 x the diameter of the tungsten
or
About the same taper as a pencil point.
R. Duncan
small flat at end of tungsten. Is this any better than pointed tip?
Why?
Ernie Leimkuhler
<fi...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
The lower the amperage you are welding at , the pointier your tungsten
should be.
go to
http://www.Pro-FusionOnline.com/
and read up about tungsten geometry.