I would like to do some different finishes on some wrought iron. Something
using two colors to achieve what looks like a "granite" finish. Or
patinated copper. There are paints available at HD that will do it, but
they are pricey, and I would need about 150 cans.
Any tips? Maybe sponge on the second color? Air brush in shadows and
highlights? Help me out here.
Steve
Go here and order a sample kit.
http://www.patinasfinishes.com/
I have been using their stuff for 8 years.
Their system allows you to create any finish on any materiel.
You can make a brick look like bronze or stainless steel look like
copper.
You prime and paint your metal with a good rust proof paint, then do a
layer of the metal paint of your choice, then another layer of the
metal paint gets patinaed while it is still wet, then you sponge in
some pigment die to add character and clear coat with their clear
primer sealer.
Repeatable and tough as nails.
> I would like to do some different finishes on some wrought iron. Something
> using two colors to achieve what looks like a "granite" finish. Or
> patinated copper. There are paints available at HD that will do it, but
> they are pricey, and I would need about 150 cans.
No doubt Ernie's suggestion will end up being more useful, but my
suggestion will probably be cheaper - if you want a two layer finish
evocative of the 'candy-apple' colours they used to put on muscle cars, then
the thing to do is to paint the thing gold, then mix a can of clear-coat
maybe 50/50 (not sure) with your primary colour (black, red, whatever) then
spray it on. The gold will 'peep' through and you get a snazzy effect.
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Mike Graham | Fighting the good fight against porosity,
mi...@metalmangler.com | lack of fusion, and people who constantly
<http://www.metalmangler.com>| try to correct the spelling of 'weldor'.
> If you really were making wronght iron, it wouldn't need painting. Admit
> it, you are making stuff out of soft steel. You are not making wought iron.
And you're not really using Kleenex to blow your nose, you're using
Kleenex brand facial tissue.
Since *real* wrought iron is so difficult and/or expensive to come by in
new stock these days, 'wrought iron' refers to a *style* of product more
than the material it is made out of. Like 'Shaker furniture' is still
Shaker furniture even if the guy who made it wasn't a Shaker - it's the
style that counts.
Guess that is why my contractor's license specified "ornamental metal."
Steve
Read Steve's post, again and again until you get it. Whether it is actually wrought iron, 1018, or A-36, he works with
makes no difference. He is wanting to PAINT a Granite or two-toned finish on the metal. To recap, even if it's wrought
iron, he intends to PAINT it. Admit it, you need some lessons in reading comprehension.
JP
Uh. Thank you, Jules. I think. Yes. I admit it. I am making stuff out
of soft steel. Once again, you are right. Atta boy.
What does that mean?
What is Kermit the Frog's middle name?
Does anyone care?
Steve ......... yawn ......... ZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzz............ pfffffttttttt !
Speaking of old Kermit....maybe he knows what is long, green, and smells like pork!
JP
> Steve, I would look in your phone book for some of the powder coaters in
> your area. You will need to look for one that has a large enough oven to put
> your work in it. There is a company called "Tiger Drylac"
Interestingly enough, I work for the company that makes the machines that
Tiger buys to make their powder coatings. If you use Tiger powder, it came
out of one of our hammer mills - almost guaranteed (they have a few small
mills from other companies... of course, if the powder in question came from
one of Tiger's overseas plants, then it gets a bit dicier...)