Gas welding, popping, why?
Ivan Vegvary
understood why a torch would pop.
Here's the latest. I needed to attach a temporary hook to a 10" ibeam.
Used a short piece of 5/8" rebar (I know it's crap) and laid it on top of
the beam. Both horizontal. I was going to lay a bead on both sides of the
rebar, about 3" long. Then I was going to bend it into a hook.
Acetelyne set to 8 psi, oxygen to 12. Number 5 tip (victor). I would lay
in some filler about 3/8" bead and then all of a sudden "pop" and every bit
of filler would explode and blow all over, including me. After I repeated 4
more times I gave up and used the MIG.
Why does this happened? I made sure that both metals were 'flowing' before
I would add the filler rod. This happens to me too often. All advice
appreciated.
Thanks,
Ivan, amateur in California
{{***~kjw~***}}
too close will cause to pop
how often do you clean the tip?
dirty tip will also cause to pop
--
There is no dumb-ass vaccine - Jimmy Buffet
Ivan Vegvary <iva...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:zWNQ7.19908$wL4.29592@rwcrnsc51...
Mawdeeb
Your over oxidizing like you would for cutting. Also start with your tip
cleaned of all soot (inside and out). Last make sure the two metals are
CLEAN. Contaminates will sometimes absorb water and cause molten metal to
explode. Try to get both side down to bright metal before starting. My two
cents
Jim Vrzal
Ivan Vegvary <iva...@attbi.com> wrote in article
<zWNQ7.19908$wL4.29592@rwcrnsc51>...
Seppo Vataja
keep the outer cone 1/8 inch up off the work
it will pop if too close
if the tip heats up it will try to burn inside and pop as well
angle the torch so the tip does not see a lot of reflected heat
use a bigger tip
"Mawdeeb" <Maw...@ozline.net> wrote in message
news:01c180eb$df3ef6c0$ca1d88d8@mawdeeb...
Eric Wilhelm
being too close to the work, but it sounds like you're saying the weld is
what is popping, not the tip. Yes the tip will pop and usually go out if
you get it too close to the work, but your weld will only pop if it has a
bubble inside of it. Usually, if your materials are dirty, there will be
moisture that gets stuck inside your filler. When you get that spot hot
again, it will explode and leave a big crater in your weld. I have the best
luck if I clean everything really well and try to preheat the whole area a
little before starting in at one end of the weld. I think that helps by
boiling off any moisture that might be on the surface or in the joint.
Hope this helps,
Eric, another amateur
"Ivan Vegvary" <iva...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:zWNQ7.19908$wL4.29592@rwcrnsc51...
JP
You didn't say if your torch pops inadvertently when you aren't
welding. It never hurts to replace the O-rings on the tip(s), clean
the soot out of the mixing body, and give the tip(s) a good cleaning.
Try wire brushing or grinding and de-greasing the parts to be welded.
Was the rebar pretty clean, without junk and gunk between the rings?
Take care,
JP
Ivan Vegvary
The tip was brand new (never used my #5 before), BUT, rebar and ibeam both
very rusty and left unclean. I think all of the comments probably apply.
Will clean first, preheat, mix gases correctly, adjust flame so not too much
oxygen, keep the heat area in away from the tip etc. etc.
Thank you very much. Will try again!
Ivan, amateur in California.
"Ivan Vegvary" <iva...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:zWNQ7.19908$wL4.29592@rwcrnsc51...
Me
Two reasons:
a) Your starving the tip for fuel gas. Turn the pressure up on acetylene.
If your useing a small or nearly empty acetylene cylinder you only can pull
1/10th of the contents of the cylinder per hour with out overdrawing and
losing pressure. As the acetylene gets starved out you get momentary mix
change then "POP"
b) If you touch the wet puddle with the lit tip in will go out and relite
itself = "POP" (this happens very fast)
I vote on Number one, a #3 acetylene has 75 cubic feet full, you can only
pull 7.5 cubic feet an hour. Thats not much, match with with a 1/2 full
tank and maby a dirty tip, and POP POP POP. good luck.
brad
are the factory recommendations, but you were not far off. The big thing is,
as you guessed, is that rebar is crap-it is very cheaply made. Very little,
if any, deoxidization when made. This will make for a difficult weld, even
if surfaces are perfect.
Rust can cause a lot of problems when using acetylene. Tends to burn and
flash. Ask any scrap guy-this is one reason they use propane or natural gas.
Last and probably the most important-a horizontal round laid on a horizontal
flat is one of the most difficult welds one can do, even with electric arc.
It is very hard to get to the bottom of the joint, due to the geometry.You
end up moving slowly which only aggravates the non deoxidized rebar. This
causes the the rebar to burn, pop and sputter. Using a filler like ER70S-2
can help. This is a filler designed for tig, but it is triple-deoxidized-the
most deoxidization available in a common filler wire. This can help
deoxidize the weld pool to get this weld done.
Hope this helps some
Good Luck-brad
rryker1
brad wrote:
> Three things-Set your pressures at 6-12 psi oxy and 4-7psi acetylene. These
> are the factory recommendations, but you were not far off. The big thing is,
> as you guessed, is that rebar is crap-it is very cheaply made. Very little,
> if any, deoxidization when made. This will make for a difficult weld, even
> if surfaces are perfect.
Rod: The settings of pressure are irrelevant .
It is color/results that matter .
> Rust can cause a lot of problems when using acetylene. Tends to burn and
> flash. Ask any scrap guy-this is one reason they use propane or natural gas.
Rod: I started out as a scrap guy and we didn't weld with gas .
> Last and probably the most important-a horizontal round laid on a horizontal
> flat is one of the most difficult welds one can do, even with electric arc.
Rod: ? Encrypted , Brad .
> It is very hard to get to the bottom of the joint, due to the geometry.You
> end up moving slowly which only aggravates the non deoxidized rebar. This
> causes the the rebar to burn, pop and sputter. Using a filler like ER70S-2
> can help. This is a filler designed for tig, but it is triple-deoxidized-the
> most deoxidization available in a common filler wire. This can help
> deoxidize the weld pool to get this weld done.
Rod: ER70s2 a Ryker staple is best used with CO2 MIG or Argon TIG
while welding mild steel , and as Brad pointed out mild steel welding
with oxy-acet. .
Question : If this wire is used whilst TIG / oxy-act. welding mild steel
all the time , why is it the least used of the commonly
purchased MIG wire ?
Answer : Your stupidity. <g>
Not Brad's .
Thank you Bradly for showing our underware ,
now find your own damn drawers . :):):)
Rod Ryker
Get sUm clothes on you tramps !
brad
drawers, I put 'em on, one leg at a time, like everyone else. This has
nothing to do with how they come off, though !!
Good Luck-brad
rryker1 <rry...@fuse.net> wrote in message
news:3C1716DC...@fuse.net...
rryker1
brad wrote:
> Name is Braddock and not Bradly!!!. Please keep this in mind! As far as my
> drawers, I put 'em on, one leg at a time, like everyone else. This has
> nothing to do with how they come off, though !!
> Good Luck-brad
>
Rod: Whatever , bradowelder ,
Happy Holidays . ;)
Rod Ryker