Soldering / brazing thin gauge stainless steel wire
acf3
between 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. I need to make both butt joints and
lap joints. I have tried "silver solder" brazing with out much luck.
Can anyone make a recommendation on a process that might be more
successful?
Thank you,
Arnie
R. Zimmerman
idea what would be practical. You could weld it with a very small tig setup
at low amps. Ernie would have some good ideas.
I would not give up on silver brazing. You will need a jewellery size
torch tip. A straight butt joint as well as a scarf will need an effective
clamping affair to hold the wires in alignment.
To jig the wires I would try a piece of angle iron say one inch with a
hack saw cut lengthways to act as a channel for the wire. A section of the
angle cut away where the joint is would be needed. The cutout need only be
1/4 inch. Pieces of light steel on each side clamped on the angle would
capture the wire.
If you cannot get small enough silver solder wire you may have to hammer
it out a bit.
Try the brazing book for ideas.
http://www.handyharmancanada.com/
"acf3" <acfrank...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f075a611.0302...@posting.google.com...
Tidris
<acfrank...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have tried "silver solder" brazing with out much luck.
I have experimented with silver brazing stainless steel rods 1/16" to
1/8 " diameter with very good results. An ordinary propane torch has
more than enough heat output to get the rods to the right temperature.
What do you mean by "with out much luck"? Did you use the black flux
recommended for stainless steel?
Ed Huntress
What flux are you using for silver brazing? You need a very active flux made
especially for stainless, such as Handy & Harman's Handy Flux Type B-1
Paste, or any of several others made for the job. Ordinary fluxes made for
use with carbon steel won't keep the oxide clear long enough, and the braze
metal won't wet the stainless.
Assuming you're not equipped for TIG welding, this probably is your best
bet.
--
Ed Huntress
(remove "3" from email address for email reply)
Ernie Leimkuhler
Silver solder would be my first choice.
Micro TIG would work, but is not an easy skill.
Ernie Leimkuhler
Oh yeah, there is a widget called a "Tweezer Welder"
(do a google search).
They are used to attach heating element wires to contacts.
Basically a tiny spot welder just for wires.
Ted Edwards
You don't say what stainless but if it's a 300 series try an O/A welded
but joint. A Smith's Tiny Torch will handle this with ease. I'd
probably use 312 or 347 filler if any was needed - the later because I
have some 0.040" diameter.
Ted
mbS
from acfrank...@yahoo.com (acf3), as follows:
There is an old book:
"Direct Metal Sculpture" by Meilach and Seiden,
1966, Crown Publishers, New York,
which has a section on the making of the stainless steel
sculptures of Konstantin Milonadis, using propanox.
pp. 55 - 60. It shows the jigs he used and everything.
Interlibrary loan will be able to get it for you if it isn't
in your library.
Eastburn
they weld them to the IC pads and then to the wire frame (leads).
The wire is done like a MIG - welder and the wire out the center -
it generates it's own heat melts the tip as it is pressed by the
heater and a hot swag is done. [ my take on the real process ]
Martin
--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer old...@pacbell.net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
Jim Seals
antennas. I generally grind them back to original diameter and polish them
after welding. So far it works well. I try to make my weld in the upper
part of the rod so I don't have the weld joint near the mount. The welded
joint is softer than the original rod. Jim
Ted Edwards
> I routinely tig small diameter stainless rods for use in 2-way radio mobile
> antennas. I generally grind them back to original diameter and polish them
> after welding. So far it works well. I try to make my weld in the upper
> part of the rod so I don't have the weld joint near the mount. The welded
> joint is softer than the original rod. Jim
Don't know whether it's my finger or my ISP but I never saw my reply.
When I do this or similar things, I butt weld using TIG and 312 or 347
SS filler. Before I had tig, I used a Smith's O/A Tiny Torch. Worked
almost as well as tig. If you don't have/can't afford TIG, look into
one of these torches. Amazingly good for fine work.
Ted