6011 electrode
Jim Ladd
obtaining a decent looking bead-using an A.C. welder. The bead
appears to be full of pin-holes,which may be superficial. The bead
doesn't look anything like I get with a 7018 or 6013(non-dragging).
I realize the quick freeze feature probably plays a part in the less
than perfect appearance,along with my lack of experience.Any other
comments or suggestions? (I can see the puddle and see the crater fill
in so I dont think I'm doing all that much wrong). Thanks, Jim.
C. Joy
6011. It should be flatter, it penetrates
deeper. keep a very short arc length. if you
have pinholes you might try traveling a little
slower. sometimes the material needs more time
for the contaminants to boil out. could also be
bad rod.
C. Joy
jmke...@aol.com
manufacture. Before you give up, try another manufacture, the 6011 electrode
should work with little problems. You seem to have no problems with other
electrodes 7018 or 6013.
Because you are using a AC power source the flux chemistry on the electrode is
important and various from manufacture. If you do not do a lot of welding you
should evaluate some of the non AWS class electrodes which are designed for AC
welders. They do cost a little more but they do work. You will get a nice weld
and the rod will not stick to the work making you feel better.
Keep on trying and good luck, John
In article <362BD1...@flash.net>,
jfl...@flash.net wrote:
> Greetings-I'm a new user of 6011 electrode and am having trouble
> obtaining a decent looking bead-using an A.C. welder. The bead
> appears to be full of pin-holes,which may be superficial. The bead
> doesn't look anything like I get with a 7018 or 6013(non-dragging).
> I realize the quick freeze feature probably plays a part in the less
> than perfect appearance,along with my lack of experience.Any other
> comments or suggestions? (I can see the puddle and see the crater fill
> in so I dont think I'm doing all that much wrong). Thanks, Jim.
>
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Randy Zimmerman
You might ask for E 6011 P This rod has extra potassium in the flux to
help stabilize the arc.
I doubt however that the pinholes are a result of the rod alone unless
you have some really bad rod. With a bit extra heat this rod is known to
burn out just about any contamination prior to a build up with other types
of rod.
You can improve the appearance of the bead with a whipping motion. The
idea is to move forward out of the puddle and then quickly back in to
deposit another layer. The forward and back motion will result in an series
of concentric arcs forming on the surface. The more frequent the motion the
finer the lines.
You have to see it done once and then you will have the idea.
Randy
Jim Ladd wrote in message <362BD1...@flash.net>...
E-Man
6011 can be made to look perfect the same as any other
rod, it's just a different kind of perfect (looks
different). I'm not sure how you are manipulating this rod,
but if your movements are too course the tiny skips may get
a pinholish appearance. Long arcing will give you pinholes
if you loose your gas coverage (it's O.K. to long arc a
little when you whip out, but you have to choke it down when
you come back into the puddle). You can also get it at times
when welding on rusty, scaley or painted steel, although
this rod will eat quite a bit of it.
Whether you whip it or oscillate it, concentrate on
making the motions the same way every time and watch the
ripples as they form to fine tune your technique accordingly
and pretty soon you'll see what a perfect 6011 weld looks
like.
Respectfully,
E-Man
Full time subscriber to
K.I.S.S.
RIVGAR
the rod manipulation is different with 6011 than with 7018. You need to use a
whip technique, come out of the puddle slighty, go back into the puddle and
hold for a second to build a pad. Do this exactly the same every time, like a
musical beat. Then use a sturdy wire brush to clean the weld. With practice
your beads with 6011 or 6010 (6010 runs basically the same as 6011 but for a DC
welder) will look very impressive. It should have a flat, equally rippled
appearance.
If there is no one to show you how to do this.
You can get an excellent book from the Lincoln Electric Company on using fast
freeze rods (6010/6011)
Go to Lincoln's web site at;
www.lincolnelectric.com
from there go to;
educational opportunites;
from there go to;
texbooks and educational materials;
Then look for the book
"New lessons in Arc Welding"
it only costs $5.00.
Sounds like a lot of work to get there but the books lincoln sells are all
non-profit, and most of the books are thick and hard cover. You will be pleased
with the quality and content.
It is a great resource. You can also get lots of free material on rod
selection etc. Explore the site. I do not work for Lincoln.
I am a welding instructor and use this resource exttensively.
Good luck with your beads.
With practice you will impress yourself and your friends.
Bill
Jim Ladd
following helps me: 1) whenever I can,run the weld downhill-45 deg.
works well, 2)keep the electrode perpendicular to the work,and
3)keep a very short arc length. I have one Lincoln book that describes
the whip method and I'll try it again(and again).I note that my beads
seem to be too high-not as flat as I would like. Again, thanks,
Jim Ladd, Clarkston, Mi.