Auto-darkening helmet questions...
Passnb4U
I'm looking into buying an auto darkening helmet. What I'd like (and know is
available) is a variable (manully adjustable) shade and one that switches at
1/25000 of a sec.
I can find these readily enough, but what I'd like to know is who, in your
opinions, amke the sturdest, toughest one. I don't want to spend a lot of
dollars, drop it off the welder, then have to get a new one.
Also, any good places to try price-wise?
Thanks, Mike
HENOX
the cheapest.
You do want to take better care of an auto-darkening than your typical
helmet....you can't just throw it around and have it last!
Ted Edwards
the features you want. If I fire a photo flash in front of it, I don't
see the flash.
Ted
Richard Phinney
sell for <$200.
Good luck...
Richard Phinney
Passnb4U wrote in message <19981228211014...@ng100.aol.com>...
Deb Knutson
View specs and pricing at our web site. Feel free to email me with any
questions.
--
Debra Knutson
de...@mwsco.com
Mississippi Welders Supply
www.mwsco.com
Lynn Amick
joseph clark wrote:
> I have a ShadeMaster Tradesman that cost about $130.
> When I start a good arc, it works fine. When I get in the mode of rod
> sticks,
> break it loose, rod sticks, break it loose, rod sticks, ........... , it
> starts flashing
> me for an instant. After a couple of hours, my eyes are slightly burnt.
>
> Has anyone else had a similar experience with any of the auto lenses?
>
> Are they all this way or are some better than others?
well quite sticking rods ;-)
when I run into that sticking problem, as soon as I break the rod free and it
arcs I can't even see a bright arc because it switches so fast. But when I
have been in an extremely weird position, and accidentally cover the light
sensors so it will not trip to dark state, I do some times notice little red
spots... but they are not bad at all, by no means any burn (but I usually try
to move so this doesn't happen)
joseph clark
When I start a good arc, it works fine. When I get in the mode of rod
sticks,
break it loose, rod sticks, break it loose, rod sticks, ........... , it
starts flashing
me for an instant. After a couple of hours, my eyes are slightly burnt.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with any of the auto lenses?
Are they all this way or are some better than others?
Joe
czr...@onaustralia.com.au
>I have a ShadeMaster Tradesman that cost about $130.
>When I start a good arc, it works fine. When I get in the mode of rod
>sticks,
>break it loose, rod sticks, break it loose, rod sticks, ........... , it
>starts flashing
>me for an instant. After a couple of hours, my eyes are slightly burnt.
>Has anyone else had a similar experience with any of the auto lenses?
>Are they all this way or are some better than others?
Some are definately better than others. I have one of the not so good ones.
Have a look at the technical specs for the helmet, you'll probably find that
its reaction time is in the order of 1 or 2 thousandths of a second, which
means that you will see some spark. The really good ones will have a reaction
time of about 1 fifteen thousandth. (yep 1/15000 sec). An electronic photo
flash on low power has a duration of about 1/1000 of a second, to give you
some idea.
If it's the secondary flash when you break the rod loose that is getting you,
check out the controls on the helmet. You may have a delay setting which
controls how quickly it goes from dark to light. Because the secondary flash
is occurring so soon after the flash made when it sticks, the electronics may
be getting confused and not reacting properly.
I have a Tie-Ma helmet 'cause it's what I could afford at the time. The
reaction time is 1/1000 sec, and it has a manual and an automatic setting.
When it's in Automatic (the normal mode) the sensitiviy pot changes how long
it takes to go from dark to light (1/10 to 1 full second). If I am having a
problem with rods sticking, I set it to one second, but apart from that I
leave it on minimum.
As far as the reaction time not being quick enough, I have got into the habit
of blinking as I strike the arc. It's an automatic reflex that in no way
affects the job.
I wouldn't be too concerned in any case. All automatic helmets sold must
conform to certain standards, which include the degree of filtering of UV and
IR radiation. Check the specs again, and I think you'll find that the degree
of UV and IR filtration is the same whether the helmet has activated or not.
Regards,
Chris.
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czr...@onaustralia.com.au <Chris Robinson>
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Don't eat yellow snow".
tom koehler
of the thing you are working on casts a shaadow on your lens and that
shadow is on the sensor you will get a quick look at your work, which you
will not appreciate. There are generally two or more sensors, but
depending on their arrangement they can still get "shadowed" and you get
flashed. been there... more careful now.
tom k.
--
I will find a way, or make one
gfulton
happens pretty regularly. If I'd have know of this problem, I'd have bought
the higher priced one with two sensors. Only happens during TIG work, not
stick. Don't know why.
Garrett Fulton
tom koehler wrote in message ...
czr...@onaustralia.com.au
>I'd like to second this. I've got a helmet with only one sensor and this
>happens pretty regularly. If I'd have know of this problem, I'd have bought
>the higher priced one with two sensors. Only happens during TIG work, not
>stick. Don't know why.
The reason is almost certainly to do with the helmet electronics, not the
single sensor.
Since the helmet may be used in the bright sun, or inside a workshop or a
confined space, the electronics have to adjust the sensitivity to ambient
conditions.
Because TIG has an unusually stable arc, there is the potential for it to be
confused with a very bright ambient light source.
If you have a manual setting you should use that for TIG, and adust the
sensitivity accordingly.
Regards,
Chris.
>Garrett Fulton
>tom koehler wrote in message ...
>>One other consideration for an auto-darken lens is shadows. If some part
>>of the thing you are working on casts a shaadow on your lens and that
>>shadow is on the sensor you will get a quick look at your work, which you
>>will not appreciate. There are generally two or more sensors, but
>>depending on their arrangement they can still get "shadowed" and you get
>>flashed. been there... more careful now.
>>tom k.
>>
>>--
>>I will find a way, or make one
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Gwyn Phillips
czr...@onaustralia.com.au writes
>Check the specs again, and I think you'll find that the degree
>of UV and IR filtration is the same whether the helmet has activated or no
outside of the lens and has nothing to do with the liquid crystal
performance,and therefore the above statement is correct.This means that
even in the light shade 3 condition,
the welder cannot suffer'ARC EYE',the dreaded gritty sore feeling that
usually occurs around 2AM and you try and find your way to the bathroom.
In the UK,we sell a autodarkening helmet manufactured by Jackson
Products in the States.Their new range of helmets they claim have the
fastest switching technology-0.04 milliseconds from light to dark,the
dark shade can be varied between sh10-13EW,has manual sensitivity
adjustment to cater for varying environment and manual adjustable delay
to clear(0.1-1.0secs),avoiding the problems of pulsed TIG and tacking
applications.In the UK,it sells for 139/149GBP.Don't know whether this
helps but can recommend the helmet.
--
Gwyn Phillips
Mike McFall
Click
here for the coolest idea since ice cream
Ted Edwards
Ted
Bill Lewis
would be slow outside in cold weather?
/bill
Mike McFall wrote in message <23834-36...@newsd-111.bryant.webtv.net>...
Since when does electricity travel FASTER than light?
czr...@arcman.com.au
>I was wondering the other day if the auto-darkening lenses
>would be slow outside in cold weather?
Short answer: No.
Long answer: You should check out the specs for the helmet which will
include operating temperature ranges, and not exceed these.
The LCD screen will malfunction if it gets too hot, and condensation is a
major problem for the electronics in very cold weather.
My helmet malfunctioned while welding drilling pipes the other day. The
ambient temperature was only about 30C, but with about 11 passes per join
the amount of heat generated caused the screen to go dark and kind of
"granular". This is extreme case though of course. It was OK after it
cooled down.
Speed is not the problem. In the case of the semiconductors (silicon
chips) in the electronics, they actually are able to work faster when
they're cold. I don't know about the LCD screen, but being a
semiconductor material they may work faster as well. I will ask an
electronics engineer and let you know.
To answer Mike's question(?)
>Mike McFall wrote in message
><23834-36...@newsd-111.bryant.webtv.net>... Since when does
>electricity travel FASTER than light?
Wrong analogy. You push electrons into one end of the conductor, and this
in effect pushes other electrons out the other end, and not necessarily
the same electrons. Think of it in terms of EMF (electro-motive force) ie
volts which is really a measure of "electrical pressure".
The rinkle here is that electron flow in superconductors is thought to
occurr at the speed of light, and some theory says it actually happens
even faster, due to the fact that electons may flow in a closed circuit
within the superconductor with nothing more than magnetic force driving it
in a closed circuit withing the SC itself. This could be why
superconductors are also supermagnets.
Regards,
Chris.
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NB: Real address is:
czr...@onaustralia.com.au
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I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy.
Mahaaa
Although the Silicone chips will be fine in the cold LCD's are cold
sensitive. Anyone who has worn a digital watch out in extreme weather may
have witnessed this. The liquid in the LCD will get a little thick and not
be able to align as quickly. The batteries (if needed) may also fail at
these temps. A cold front is coming through soon...I'll test mine.
Passnb4U
I have the Huntsman V, (think it was the V??) anyway, the literature says
operating temp is between 4 degrees F and 135 degrees F.
Trust me, I'll never weld that cold or that hot...life in California just
won't let me.
Mike