Recreational Vehicle Type Refrigerators
cre...@pop.chyn.uswest.net
assume they are some type of absorption system? What
typically goes wrong when they stop working? What is the
refrigerant type? Are there any Web sites devoted to this
type system?
I had one guy tell me that to fix one that isn't working you
simple remove the refrigerator from the RV and turn it
upside down for a couple of hours then reinstall
it....sounds to good to be true to me. Anyone ever heard of
this kind of refrigeration gymnastics?
Thanks, Richard
Neon John
cre...@pop.chyn.uswest.net wrote:
Funny you'd mention that. Just go through working on one.
>
> Does anyone have any info on these types of refrigerators; I
> assume they are some type of absorption system?
yep
>What
> typically goes wrong when they stop working?
They quit getting cold? :-)
>What is the
> refrigerant type?
Ammonia, water and nitrogen under high pressure.
>Are there any Web sites devoted to this
> type system?
Dunno. go look.
> I had one guy tell me that to fix one that isn't working you
> simple remove the refrigerator from the RV and turn it
> upside down for a couple of hours then reinstall
> it....sounds to good to be true to me. Anyone ever heard of
> this kind of refrigeration gymnastics?
Well there are no moving parts inside the refrigerant loop so if all
else fails, that's worth a try. Don't try to open the refrigeration
system unless you'd like a bath of concentrated ammonia water under
high pressure. Unless the thing rusts through and loses its charge
(you'd know that if it happened), there's not much to go wrong
inside the refrigeration system.
These things have to be level to work. Older ones have to be REALLY
level. On multi-fuel units, propane provides the most cooling,
120vac the next best and 12vdc almost none, barely enough to hold
existing cold while on the road. I'd check for obstructions in the
flame circuit, the flue and the ventilation ducts. The gas flame is
small, little more than a large pilot light, so a large dirt
dauber's nest could block the flame channel. If it will cool on gas
but not on electricity, then you need to check out the electrical
circuit.
Most of the RV fridges are swedish made Domitec brand. If yours is
a Domitec, it has the capability of modulating the gas flow to
control the temperature. Make sure you have a vigorous flame on the
burner. If it is barely burning, it is on minimum fire and won't do
much in the way of cooling. later models have electronic controls
but I'm not terribly familiar with them. but regardless, if you
have heat on the boiler, and good airflow on the condenser you
should get cold inside.
--
John De Armond
johngd...@bellsouth.net
Neon John's Custom Neon
Cleveland, TN
"Bendin' Glass 'n Passin' Gas"
Lala
will migrate to the top of the system and get trapped there for some
reason. I just take them out and let the sit upside down for a couple
days. A couple hours might work but I like to be sure :-) that lets
the the amonia/water get untrapped and migrate back to where it needs
to be. This is assuming of course that the burners are working
correctly.
Regards,
Dave
On Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:35:54 -0400, cre...@pop.chyn.uswest.net wrote:
>Does anyone have any info on these types of refrigerators; I
>assume they are some type of absorption system? What
>typically goes wrong when they stop working? What is the
>refrigerant type? Are there any Web sites devoted to this
>type system?
>
>I had one guy tell me that to fix one that isn't working you
>simple remove the refrigerator from the RV and turn it
>upside down for a couple of hours then reinstall
>it....sounds to good to be true to me. Anyone ever heard of
>this kind of refrigeration gymnastics?
>
>Thanks, Richard
>
****************************************
NOTICE TO BULK EMAILER(S):
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter
5, Subchapter II, 227, any & all
unsolicited commercial e-mail sent to
this address is subject to a download
and archival fee in the amount of
$500 US and copies will be forwarded
to domain administrators--E-mailing
denotes acceptance of said terms!
BUT, just in case you do SPAM this:
root@localhost
postmaster@localhost
admin@localhost
abuse@localhost
postm...@127.0.0.1
****************************************
Gerry Goodrich
wrote:
>I have "fixed" several of these. Over time either the water or amonia
>will migrate to the top of the system and get trapped there for some
>reason. I just take them out and let the sit upside down for a couple
>days. A couple hours might work but I like to be sure :-) that lets
>the the amonia/water get untrapped and migrate back to where it needs
>to be. This is assuming of course that the burners are working
>correctly.
>
The damage is usually caused by off-level operation. These systems are
driven by a "percolator" with several gravity liquid vapor separators.
Off level operation interferes with the separation process.
If a unit has been run a long time or stored a long time after such
use, some of the chemicals used to keep the water-amonia mix from
freezing or otherwise eating the steel (steel is used because these
systems run pressurized to nearly 400lb with hydrogen - not an active
part of the process but helps Dalton's law out) crystalize and
permanently restrict the tubing.
So, tipping it on its side or upside down may often but not always
work.
gerry
.......
* It is hard to fit reason into a narrow mind *
NO_SPAM added to my email address to confuse robots