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Scantronic 9448 alarm panel - installation manual?

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Philip Pemberton

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Oct 18, 2000, 3:00:00 AM10/18/00
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Hi,
I've just acquired a used Scantronic 9448 alarm panel that will no
longer accept its arm/disarm code. A new alarm has been fitted instead of
the Scantronic so I've been left with an alarm that has a corrupt user
code/engineer code. Has anyone got an Installer's Manual for this type of
alarm? Basically I need to:
Reset the codes
Find out what the Engineer Code defaults to after a reset and
Reconfigure the panel.

I would like to get this panel working, but Scantronic won't give me the
manual unless I happen to own a company that is on their "Authorised
Installers" list. Would anyone with the manual mind scanning and e-mailing
me a copy please?

I've tried loads of search engines (including a few so-called "meta" search
engines) all to no avail. Please help!!!

Thanks in advance,
Phil.


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Lenny

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Oct 19, 2000, 3:00:00 AM10/19/00
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You've been "locked out" of program mode. Even as a professional alarm
installer myself this scenario is a brick wall for me too. Manufacturers
are obliged to protect their authorised installers from "hostile
takeovers". You're probably out of luck. Lenny Stein.

Jay B. Miller

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Oct 19, 2000, 3:00:00 AM10/19/00
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If this panel has an 8pin e2prom for 'data storage', just remove it and
replace with a new, blank one. while it's out, read it with an appropriate
program/reader( I2C is easy on the PC,check the web) some pgm like hexedit
will allow you to see the data, and then you figure out the byte
sequence/data.

If you're really serious it's a proven way to do it. been there done that
.several times for ademco panels, and dsc.

OR

find a local installer, but him a coffee, and let him 'reset' it.

hth
jbm


Philip Pemberton

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Oct 19, 2000, 3:00:00 AM10/19/00
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Jay B. Miller <jbmi...@ininterlynx.net> wrote in message
news:8smods$s5k$1...@wolf.interlynx.net...

> If this panel has an 8pin e2prom for 'data storage', just remove it and
> replace with a new, blank one. while it's out, read it with an appropriate
> program/reader( I2C is easy on the PC,check the web) some pgm like hexedit
> will allow you to see the data, and then you figure out the byte
> sequence/data.
It _does_ use an 8-pin SEEPROM. Unfortunately, according to
STMicroelectronics (the manufacturers of the chip that's in there now) the
SEEPROM chip is now obsolete. It's a 93C06CB1. I think a power surge got
through the PSU and zapped the EEPROM's data - the code that was originally
programmed in has been screwed up and I need to make the thing reset itself.
There's a jumper on the lower right of the board, sans cap, marked RST1 -
Reset 1? I'm going to have a look through the Installer's Guide for the
newly-installed box and see if I can apply the same technique to the old
box. I'm going to contact the nearest electronics store (Maplins) and ask
them to order in an ST93C06CB1 - it's listed in the catalogue as "While
stocks last" - I reckon their Wombwell (Barnsley) depot will have a few
left... They're only 16x16bit (or 32x8bit) chips anyway - shouldn't be too
hard to get the code off it...

> If you're really serious it's a proven way to do it. been there done that
> .several times for ademco panels, and dsc.

And Scantronic?

> OR
>
> find a local installer, but him a coffee, and let him 'reset' it.

At a cost of £80... When the new alarm panel only cost £30... Pity they
don't (usually) accept coffee as payment :-)

Later,

Philip Pemberton

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Oct 19, 2000, 3:00:00 AM10/19/00
to
OK, Jay. Thanks for the info. I've just got it running - the code is now
back to 1234. I've just tried to arm it but every time I try I end up having
the tamper LED light up and the panel going into "Full Alert". I think it's
something to do with the bell box connections - could someone tell me what
the abbreviations on the connectors mean? Here's an ASCII diagram of the two
connector blocks:
___
| o | - 12V
| o | + AUX
| o | -\
| o | -/ A/T
| o | -\
| o | -/ EE
| o | -\
| o | -/ PA
|___|
| o | -\
| o | -/ Z1
| o | -\
| o | -/ Z2
| o | -\
| o | -/ Z3
|___|
_________________
| o o o o o o o o |
-----------------
S B 1 0 T + - O
T E 2 V R LS /
R L V P
L

I've deciphered most of these - i.e. Z1 = Zone 1, etc. Could some kind soul
please tell me what the following abbreviations mean (and their active
states and whether I should short both the terminals with that designation
together)?
A/T
EE
PA
TR
O/P

Thanks in advance,
Phil.


Philip Pemberton

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Oct 19, 2000, 3:00:00 AM10/19/00
to
Lenny <captain...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:39EED8...@hotmail.com...

> Philip Pemberton wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> > I've just acquired a used Scantronic 9448 alarm panel that will no
> > longer accept its arm/disarm code. A new alarm has been fitted instead
of
> > the Scantronic so I've been left with an alarm that has a corrupt user
> > code/engineer code. Has anyone got an Installer's Manual for this type
of
> > alarm? Basically I need to:
> > Reset the codes
> > Find out what the Engineer Code defaults to after a reset and
> > Reconfigure the panel.
> >
> > I would like to get this panel working, but Scantronic won't give me the
> > manual unless I happen to own a company that is on their "Authorised
> > Installers" list. Would anyone with the manual mind scanning and
e-mailing
> > me a copy please?
> >
> > I've tried loads of search engines (including a few so-called "meta"
search
> > engines) all to no avail. Please help!!!
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Phil.
> You've been "locked out" of program mode. Even as a professional alarm
> installer myself this scenario is a brick wall for me too. Manufacturers
> are obliged to protect their authorised installers from "hostile
> takeovers". You're probably out of luck. Lenny Stein.
I've just got it working. If I don't want to use one of the zones I have to
put a wire link over the terminals. That's the only buglet with it. What do
you mean by "hostile takeovers"?

Basically all I had to do is bridge a jumper, hook up a PP9 and then I just
changed the code as per Scantronic's instructions. Easy. Now it will
arm/disarm properly. I've really had some fun with it - it's a brilliant
little alarm when it works. Should make a good alarm for my Dad's shed -
given a PIR and a reed switch, of course. On the other hand I might build my
own. Just for the hell of it. Should be quite "interesting". LEDs around
here are ten-a-pound (if mail ordered as "manufacturer surplus"). If I
design an alarm and get it working I'll put the schematics up on my website.
I'll publish more details in this NG soon.

Thanks a lot for your help (you too Jay).
--
Phil
http://www.philpem.f9.co.uk/
phi...@bigfoot.com

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