Is there some'secret' way to easily remove screw cap covers when dissassembling?

[Robert Macy]

On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?

The cap covers along the bottom were oval shaped and came off by
gently pushing in the middle, distorting its shape. Once distorted it
was easy to then lift it out of the hole by inserting into the gap the
side of a single edge razor blade. The covers covering the hinge
screws again came out easily due to their oval shape.

However, now I'm faced with bezel screws which have round covers.
These covers I'll be looking at every time I use this thing in the
future, so don't want to destroy the covers.

Thus, the question, is there some secret to getting these cap covers
out without destroying them?

[Baron]

Robert Macy Inscribed thus:

I use a watchmakers screwdriver, carefully. :-)
They are also stuck in with DS tape.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

[Winston]

Robert Macy wrote:
> On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
> black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
> csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
> appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?

See pages 122 and 125:
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/62p9631.pdf

'Looks like you have to insert the tip of an
X-Acto 11 blade and pry them off.
It will probably uglify the screw caps though.

Luckily, the caps are sold as part of P/N 26P9654
for 22 bux including shipping:
eBay 380113424356

Screw kit (including nylon-coated screws) for T20,
T21, T22 and T23 series:
v M2.5 x 14 mm, bind head (15)
v M2.5 x 11.5 mm, flat head (5)
v M2.5 x 4.8 mm, flat head (20)
v M2.5 x 3.5 mm, flat head (10)
v M2.0 x 13.5 mm, pan head (15)
v M2..0 x 4.0 mm, small head (10)
v Hex stud D-sub (10)
v Coin screw (1)
v Security screw (1)
v Blank cap, enhanced port (5)
v Screw caps, rear (5)
v Screw caps (5)
v Screw caps (painted) (10)
v Screw caps (not painted, thin) (10)
v Screw caps (not painted) (5)

--Winston

[Matthew Fries]

When the authorized service centers repair the laptops, they usually
have to order (or have on hand) replacement adhesive covers. I find
this a waste of money and product to have to buy something every time
you open the laptop.

I found that on most laptops, a hole punch and some double-sided
sticky tape works great.

Or maybe some rubber cement.

Thanks.


Remove the BALONEY from my email address.
-----------------------------------------------------
Matthew Fries Minneapolis, MN USA
fre...@baloneyvisi.com

"Quit eating all my *STUFF*!" - The Tick

[Rich Webb]

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 13:27:31 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
<robert...@gmail.com> wrote:

Try drilling a small hole through the center and use a dental pick or
similar to carefully pop it off. Cleaner and less noticeable than the
chewed-up appearance that often results from prying at the edges.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 13:27:31 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
<robert...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Thus, the question, is there some secret to getting these cap covers
>out without destroying them?

Tiny screwdriver and pry up.

If you want to do it without destroying the screw cover, use a vacuum
pickup tool and vacuum pump:
<www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=vacuum+pickup+pen>
Grab the screw cover near the edge and pull up. Don't try to pull on
the middle of the cover.

If you don't mind building a dedicated tip, a solder sucker might work
(I have't tried it).

--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Robert Macy]

Thank you for that URL!

The step by steps are easy to follow.

However, for some reason after getting to the inverter PCB, replacing
with 'new' one from eBay, the LapTop still does not light up the
screen.

Worrisome is the fact that I have a bracket, screw, and a broken off
boss left over after re-assembly.

But that's only mechanical stuff.

[Winston]

Whups. Sounds like the backlight itself is worn out
or is turned off.

I take it you can bounce light off the screen to see that
an image is presented on the display, yes?

From page 28:
"Screen blank mode
Screen blank mode has three variants, as follows:
If you press Fn+F3, or the time set on the “LCD off
timer” in IBM BIOS Setup Utility expires,
v The LCD backlight turns off.
v The hard-disk drive motor stops.
v The speaker is muted."

Also see p. 54 for LCD troubleshooting tips.

> Worrisome is the fact that I have a bracket, screw, and a broken off
> boss left over after re-assembly.
>
> But that's only mechanical stuff.

<G>

--Winston

[mike]

Check for volts input to the inverter board.
I had one laptop that had a blown fuse.
Fuse was near the graphics chip and looked like a cap.
Chased my tail on that one for a while.

Hook the ground clip of your scope probe to the tip to
form a loop. Waive it around in the vicinity of the inverter.
You'll be able to tell if it's running.

[Robert Macy]

Great tip! Totally forgot to try that!

[Robert Macy]

pg 54 doesn't say much, just reseat connectors, hmmm

I did finally verify the image is appearing ON the LCD, all I need now
is the backlight and I'll have a working Laptop again, plus free parts-
bracket, boss, and screw.

[Winston]

Robert Macy wrote:

(...)

> I did finally verify the image is appearing ON the LCD, all I need now
> is the backlight and I'll have a working Laptop again, plus free parts-
> bracket, boss, and screw.

Sounds like progress. :)

--Winston

[Robert Macy]

The irritating factor in the excess parts is that the bracket was left
on the 14mm screw that holds down the keyboard bezel, and appeared to
fit in that area EXCEPT that with the bracket in place where it fits
comfortably, the screw does NOT reach ?! I think it is an EMC
grounding bracket and probably won't have much to do with the
operation [I hope}

[Winston]

Robert Macy wrote:

(...)

> The irritating factor in the excess parts is that the bracket was left
> on the 14mm screw that holds down the keyboard bezel, and appeared to
> fit in that area EXCEPT that with the bracket in place where it fits
> comfortably, the screw does NOT reach ?! I think it is an EMC
> grounding bracket and probably won't have much to do with the
> operation [I hope}

Post a link to a picture, please.
Is it the little bracket shown on the top of page 85?
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/62p9631.pdf

--Winston

[Robert Macy]

no idea how to post a pic?

I can attach it.

[mike]

Typical reason for this is putting a longer screw in the wrong place.

[Winston]

I think sci.electronics.repair is non-binary.

Suggest sign up to a photo sharing site like
photobucket and provide a link to your photo.

Ferinstance here is a snapshot of a TIG weld
joint that I did with my little Miller 150.
The object in the top left corner is the tip
of a ballpoint pen:

http://tinyurl.com/7luzvtx

or:

http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/m516/Dilbert1001/?action=view&current=Can2See.jpg

--Winston

[Winston]

I concur, but this is why
I want to see a photo.
It isn't clear if we have a misalignment
problem or a 'length' problem.

--Winston