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LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly
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Jan Panteltje
Apr 10, 2014, 10:33:07 AM4/10/14
to
LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly
I got the open source software from LG,
but no reply on my request for a service manual,
and could not find out how to open it without damaging the plastic.
Anyways It started screaming error messages at me,
and stopped working altogether.
Now that is a guarantee case, but sending it back, paying for return shipment,
just to get an other defective one back?
So, after it kept screaming and the whole neighborhood was now looking what was going on
'HOMEBOT CANNOT CONTINUE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE SUCTION MOTOR'
I wanted to shoot it, I remember Elvis once shot a TV set..
anyways, wanted to see what was inside, wanted to re-design the piece of shit (do not buy this crap!!!)
so as it was not working anyways, decided to open it the smart and fast way,
dropped it from 1.5 meters on a concrete floor.
that did it.
Red (warning color!!!) cover flipped of, and there were a couple of real screws exposed.
removed these and had a look inside.
This is the main board:
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_PCB_IMG_4432.JPG
The huge white 'chip' in the middle is from these guys:
http://www.minfinity.com/eng/page.php?Main=1&sub=1&tab=2
The processor or whatever it is says ST on it
The 'suction motor drive' detail is here:
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_board_2_sucktion_motor_drive_detail__IMG_4434.JPG
nothing wrong with the motor, this seems just a MOSFET, motor in drain,
flyback protection diode D21, and sense resistor in the source (R100),
and mystery component BD16, there are several BDxxx in its motor drive circuits, no idea what it is.
The sense resistor seems bad soldered, maybe the solder connection drops too much.
Will put that motor on the lab supply later (just a freaking simple permanent magnet type DC motor).
An other mystery component, could be camera, there are supposed to be 2, one looking up and one down,
would have been more clever if one was looking were it was going, my plants for example!!, idiots.
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_mystery_component_IMG_4435.JPG
Anyways maybe the repair group likes this info,
the top red bezel is fixed with click clack plastic hooks, the 'entrance':
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_IMG_4436.JPG
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_back_with_hooks_IMG_4438.JPG
Seems a hobbyist design on a bad day by just arrived interns.
'Look we have a robotic vacuum cleaner to.'
Its hight is too high (cannot get under anything).
It get stuck on everything (carpet what not).
I throws over plants.
It scream swith a very loud female voice all the time (into the distortion),
even if you activate 'mute' it screams 'MUTE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED'
Morons!!
And it destroys any cabling you may have, pulled out the wires from the speakers,
grabbed an ethernet cable and pulled it all the way, just pure luck it did not pull the camera connected to it on the floor..
My first LG product, and absolutely and 100% certain my last even if I got one or ten for free.
Wrote it of, see if I can do better some day, with the parts.
There marketing is good, maybe they write their own reviews like Samsung.
I got the open source software from LG,
but no reply on my request for a service manual,
and could not find out how to open it without damaging the plastic.
Anyways It started screaming error messages at me,
and stopped working altogether.
Now that is a guarantee case, but sending it back, paying for return shipment,
just to get an other defective one back?
So, after it kept screaming and the whole neighborhood was now looking what was going on
'HOMEBOT CANNOT CONTINUE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE SUCTION MOTOR'
I wanted to shoot it, I remember Elvis once shot a TV set..
anyways, wanted to see what was inside, wanted to re-design the piece of shit (do not buy this crap!!!)
so as it was not working anyways, decided to open it the smart and fast way,
dropped it from 1.5 meters on a concrete floor.
that did it.
Red (warning color!!!) cover flipped of, and there were a couple of real screws exposed.
removed these and had a look inside.
This is the main board:
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_PCB_IMG_4432.JPG
The huge white 'chip' in the middle is from these guys:
http://www.minfinity.com/eng/page.php?Main=1&sub=1&tab=2
The processor or whatever it is says ST on it
The 'suction motor drive' detail is here:
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_board_2_sucktion_motor_drive_detail__IMG_4434.JPG
nothing wrong with the motor, this seems just a MOSFET, motor in drain,
flyback protection diode D21, and sense resistor in the source (R100),
and mystery component BD16, there are several BDxxx in its motor drive circuits, no idea what it is.
The sense resistor seems bad soldered, maybe the solder connection drops too much.
Will put that motor on the lab supply later (just a freaking simple permanent magnet type DC motor).
An other mystery component, could be camera, there are supposed to be 2, one looking up and one down,
would have been more clever if one was looking were it was going, my plants for example!!, idiots.
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_mystery_component_IMG_4435.JPG
Anyways maybe the repair group likes this info,
the top red bezel is fixed with click clack plastic hooks, the 'entrance':
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_IMG_4436.JPG
http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_back_with_hooks_IMG_4438.JPG
Seems a hobbyist design on a bad day by just arrived interns.
'Look we have a robotic vacuum cleaner to.'
Its hight is too high (cannot get under anything).
It get stuck on everything (carpet what not).
I throws over plants.
It scream swith a very loud female voice all the time (into the distortion),
even if you activate 'mute' it screams 'MUTE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED'
Morons!!
And it destroys any cabling you may have, pulled out the wires from the speakers,
grabbed an ethernet cable and pulled it all the way, just pure luck it did not pull the camera connected to it on the floor..
My first LG product, and absolutely and 100% certain my last even if I got one or ten for free.
Wrote it of, see if I can do better some day, with the parts.
There marketing is good, maybe they write their own reviews like Samsung.
John Larkin
Apr 10, 2014, 11:47:04 AM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 14:33:07 GMT, Jan Panteltje <pNaonSt...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
Get used to it. Everything nowadays has a computer in it.
Tennis rackets. Stoves. Refrigerators. Telephones. Toilets.
Imagine when everything is online to "the internet of things." You'll spend most
of your life reprogramming, debuggung, repairing, or returning every lamp,
faucet, thermostat, and toaster oven in your house. Upgrade that blender code
from 0.12.313b 3.19.501a to fix some stack overflow vulnerability, when you'd
rather be making margueritas.
We bought a new kitchen stove ("gas cooker" in some places) and I wanted one
without digital controls. The computerized ones are everywhere and cost about
$500. The ones without computers are in the $2000 to $5000 range. Can you
imagine a worse environment for cheap electronics than in the top of a stove, or
a dishwasher?
We got an NXR for about $2K.
I also ripped out the programmable thermostat in the cabin and replaced it with
an analog one. Guests were always leaving the old one in all sorts of bizarre
modes and states.
Our Orec vacuum cleaner must be close to 10 years old and works fine. It needs a
new belt maybe once a year, but replacement is obvious.
Don't get me started about the controls on my Audi.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com
Precision electronic instrumentation
wrote:
Tennis rackets. Stoves. Refrigerators. Telephones. Toilets.
Imagine when everything is online to "the internet of things." You'll spend most
of your life reprogramming, debuggung, repairing, or returning every lamp,
faucet, thermostat, and toaster oven in your house. Upgrade that blender code
from 0.12.313b 3.19.501a to fix some stack overflow vulnerability, when you'd
rather be making margueritas.
We bought a new kitchen stove ("gas cooker" in some places) and I wanted one
without digital controls. The computerized ones are everywhere and cost about
$500. The ones without computers are in the $2000 to $5000 range. Can you
imagine a worse environment for cheap electronics than in the top of a stove, or
a dishwasher?
We got an NXR for about $2K.
I also ripped out the programmable thermostat in the cabin and replaced it with
an analog one. Guests were always leaving the old one in all sorts of bizarre
modes and states.
Our Orec vacuum cleaner must be close to 10 years old and works fine. It needs a
new belt maybe once a year, but replacement is obvious.
Don't get me started about the controls on my Audi.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com
Precision electronic instrumentation
Jan Panteltje
Apr 10, 2014, 12:05:30 PM4/10/14
to
On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 08:47:04 -0700) it happened John Larkin
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<b2edk9h9dea9m3ef2...@4ax.com>:
>
>Get used to it. Everything nowadays has a computer in it.
>
>Tennis rackets. Stoves. Refrigerators. Telephones. Toilets.
>
>Imagine when everything is online to "the internet of things." You'll spend most
>of your life reprogramming, debuggung, repairing, or returning every lamp,
>faucet, thermostat, and toaster oven in your house. Upgrade that blender code
>from 0.12.313b 3.19.501a to fix some stack overflow vulnerability, when you'd
>rather be making margueritas.
>
>We bought a new kitchen stove ("gas cooker" in some places) and I wanted one
>without digital controls. The computerized ones are everywhere and cost about
>$500. The ones without computers are in the $2000 to $5000 range. Can you
>imagine a worse environment for cheap electronics than in the top of a stove, or
>a dishwasher?
>
>We got an NXR for about $2K.
>
>I also ripped out the programmable thermostat in the cabin and replaced it with
>an analog one. Guests were always leaving the old one in all sorts of bizarre
>modes and states.
>
>Our Orec vacuum cleaner must be close to 10 years old and works fine. It needs a
>new belt maybe once a year, but replacement is obvious.
>
>Don't get me started about the controls on my Audi.
Yea, well I also bought a DirtDevil spider, for a fraction of the money the LG rombot costs.
It has (AFAIK) no computah, no remote, and no cameras, it has a bumper sensor with micro switches it seems.
I did great cleaning under the bench, TV table, its only 7 cm high.
I does not scream, complain, it jumps over cables, is not stopped by low hanging curtains like the LG hombot,
did I mention that LG hombot cannot even find its own charging station?
The Spider you just need to plug in yourself to charge.
It probably has some micro, but it works so good there there is no need to investigate it, it just works.
It sucks less than the LG, both for real and figuratively speaking :-)
Never Repair Something That Works.
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<b2edk9h9dea9m3ef2...@4ax.com>:
>
>Get used to it. Everything nowadays has a computer in it.
>
>Tennis rackets. Stoves. Refrigerators. Telephones. Toilets.
>
>Imagine when everything is online to "the internet of things." You'll spend most
>of your life reprogramming, debuggung, repairing, or returning every lamp,
>faucet, thermostat, and toaster oven in your house. Upgrade that blender code
>from 0.12.313b 3.19.501a to fix some stack overflow vulnerability, when you'd
>rather be making margueritas.
>
>We bought a new kitchen stove ("gas cooker" in some places) and I wanted one
>without digital controls. The computerized ones are everywhere and cost about
>$500. The ones without computers are in the $2000 to $5000 range. Can you
>imagine a worse environment for cheap electronics than in the top of a stove, or
>a dishwasher?
>
>We got an NXR for about $2K.
>
>I also ripped out the programmable thermostat in the cabin and replaced it with
>an analog one. Guests were always leaving the old one in all sorts of bizarre
>modes and states.
>
>Our Orec vacuum cleaner must be close to 10 years old and works fine. It needs a
>new belt maybe once a year, but replacement is obvious.
>
>Don't get me started about the controls on my Audi.
It has (AFAIK) no computah, no remote, and no cameras, it has a bumper sensor with micro switches it seems.
I did great cleaning under the bench, TV table, its only 7 cm high.
I does not scream, complain, it jumps over cables, is not stopped by low hanging curtains like the LG hombot,
did I mention that LG hombot cannot even find its own charging station?
The Spider you just need to plug in yourself to charge.
It probably has some micro, but it works so good there there is no need to investigate it, it just works.
It sucks less than the LG, both for real and figuratively speaking :-)
Never Repair Something That Works.
John Larkin
Apr 10, 2014, 12:16:12 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 16:05:30 GMT, Jan Panteltje <pNaonSt...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
year or two.
wrote:
year or two.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 10, 2014, 1:58:49 PM4/10/14
to
Jan Panteltje
Apr 10, 2014, 2:50:31 PM4/10/14
to
On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>
>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>year or two.
You have a cellphone?
>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>year or two.
Jan Panteltje
Apr 10, 2014, 2:53:16 PM4/10/14
to
On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 13:58:49 -0400) it happened k...@attt.bizz
wrote in <6tmdk999svtb78jv5...@4ax.com>:
Yep, Lipos are cool, just got some new ones
and was testing USB charger chip MCP73831T
programmabe current, amazing charging, nice chip.
But limited number of charge discharge cycles lipos have,
John is right about that (350 times perhaps).
wrote in <6tmdk999svtb78jv5...@4ax.com>:
and was testing USB charger chip MCP73831T
programmabe current, amazing charging, nice chip.
But limited number of charge discharge cycles lipos have,
John is right about that (350 times perhaps).
Cydrome Leader
Apr 10, 2014, 3:37:03 PM4/10/14
to
In sci.electronics.design Jan Panteltje <pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly
>
> I got the open source software from LG,
> but no reply on my request for a service manual,
> and could not find out how to open it without damaging the plastic.
> Anyways It started screaming error messages at me,
> and stopped working altogether.
> Now that is a guarantee case, but sending it back, paying for return shipment,
> just to get an other defective one back?
> So, after it kept screaming and the whole neighborhood was now looking what was going on
> 'HOMEBOT CANNOT CONTINUE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE SUCTION MOTOR'
> I wanted to shoot it, I remember Elvis once shot a TV set..
> anyways, wanted to see what was inside, wanted to re-design the piece of shit (do not buy this crap!!!)
> so as it was not working anyways, decided to open it the smart and fast way,
> dropped it from 1.5 meters on a concrete floor.
> that did it.
> Red (warning color!!!) cover flipped of, and there were a couple of real screws exposed.
> removed these and had a look inside.
> This is the main board:
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_PCB_IMG_4432.JPG
looks vaguely like an old CD player or something.
> LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly
>
> I got the open source software from LG,
> but no reply on my request for a service manual,
> and could not find out how to open it without damaging the plastic.
> Anyways It started screaming error messages at me,
> and stopped working altogether.
> Now that is a guarantee case, but sending it back, paying for return shipment,
> just to get an other defective one back?
> So, after it kept screaming and the whole neighborhood was now looking what was going on
> 'HOMEBOT CANNOT CONTINUE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE SUCTION MOTOR'
> I wanted to shoot it, I remember Elvis once shot a TV set..
> anyways, wanted to see what was inside, wanted to re-design the piece of shit (do not buy this crap!!!)
> so as it was not working anyways, decided to open it the smart and fast way,
> dropped it from 1.5 meters on a concrete floor.
> that did it.
> Red (warning color!!!) cover flipped of, and there were a couple of real screws exposed.
> removed these and had a look inside.
> This is the main board:
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_PCB_IMG_4432.JPG
> The huge white 'chip' in the middle is from these guys:
> http://www.minfinity.com/eng/page.php?Main=1&sub=1&tab=2
> The processor or whatever it is says ST on it
>
> The 'suction motor drive' detail is here:
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_board_2_sucktion_motor_drive_detail__IMG_4434.JPG
> nothing wrong with the motor, this seems just a MOSFET, motor in drain,
> flyback protection diode D21, and sense resistor in the source (R100),
> and mystery component BD16, there are several BDxxx in its motor drive circuits, no idea what it is.
> The sense resistor seems bad soldered, maybe the solder connection drops too much.
> Will put that motor on the lab supply later (just a freaking simple permanent magnet type DC motor).
>
> An other mystery component, could be camera, there are supposed to be 2, one looking up and one down,
> would have been more clever if one was looking were it was going, my plants for example!!, idiots.
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_mystery_component_IMG_4435.JPG
> Anyways maybe the repair group likes this info,
> the top red bezel is fixed with click clack plastic hooks, the 'entrance':
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_IMG_4436.JPG
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_back_with_hooks_IMG_4438.JPG
>
> Seems a hobbyist design on a bad day by just arrived interns.
> 'Look we have a robotic vacuum cleaner to.'
> Its hight is too high (cannot get under anything).
> It get stuck on everything (carpet what not).
> I throws over plants.
> It scream swith a very loud female voice all the time (into the distortion),
> even if you activate 'mute' it screams 'MUTE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED'
> Morons!!
> And it destroys any cabling you may have, pulled out the wires from the speakers,
> grabbed an ethernet cable and pulled it all the way, just pure luck it did not pull the camera connected to it on the floor..
>
> My first LG product, and absolutely and 100% certain my last even if I got one or ten for free.
> Wrote it of, see if I can do better some day, with the parts.
>
> There marketing is good, maybe they write their own reviews like Samsung.
John Larkin
Apr 10, 2014, 6:07:38 PM4/10/14
to
replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
especially when the battery is two years old.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 10, 2014, 6:35:53 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:53:16 GMT, Jan Panteltje
Microchip has some nice parts.
>But limited number of charge discharge cycles lipos have,
>John is right about that (350 times perhaps).
*Easily* 500 cycles and more like 1000. Because the self-discharge is
so small, that's generally a long time.
>But limited number of charge discharge cycles lipos have,
>John is right about that (350 times perhaps).
so small, that's generally a long time.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 10, 2014, 6:37:39 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>year or two.
>>
>>You have a cellphone?
>
>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>
>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>especially when the battery is two years old.
You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>year or two.
>>
>>You have a cellphone?
>
>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>
>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>especially when the battery is two years old.
You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
count).
John Larkin
Apr 10, 2014, 7:42:37 PM4/10/14
to
1560 watts.
Rheilly Phoull
Apr 10, 2014, 9:50:46 PM4/10/14
to
The interface can be quirky but as a multifunction unit the versatility
can't be beat. That said it will not work 24/7 but can easily find it's
charging device hwen required.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 10, 2014, 10:41:21 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 16:42:37 -0700, John Larkin
meter on one and show me where it's drawing anything close to 500W, in
use. They may draw 15A at stall (doubtful), but it'll be an
interesting ride if you do stall one. A stalled saw isn't very
useful, either.
A battery powered circular saw isn't at all useless (I have two) but
it's not a replacement for a corded saw. Drills and drivers are
another matter. I only have one corded drill anymore (and over a
dozen cordless drivers and drills), a 1/2" hammer drill that I've
never used.
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:37:39 -0400, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
>><jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
>>><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>>>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>>>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>>>
>>>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>>>year or two.
>>>>
>>>>You have a cellphone?
>>>
>>>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>>>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>>>
>>>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>>>especially when the battery is two years old.
>>
>>You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
>>You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
>>count).
>
>120 volts, 15 amps is 1800 watts. Lots of circular saws pull 13 amps,
>1560 watts.
Utter nonsense. Show me one with a 14GA cord. Better yet, put a
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:37:39 -0400, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
>><jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
>>><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>>>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>>>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>>>
>>>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>>>year or two.
>>>>
>>>>You have a cellphone?
>>>
>>>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>>>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>>>
>>>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>>>especially when the battery is two years old.
>>
>>You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
>>You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
>>count).
>
>120 volts, 15 amps is 1800 watts. Lots of circular saws pull 13 amps,
>1560 watts.
meter on one and show me where it's drawing anything close to 500W, in
use. They may draw 15A at stall (doubtful), but it'll be an
interesting ride if you do stall one. A stalled saw isn't very
useful, either.
A battery powered circular saw isn't at all useless (I have two) but
it's not a replacement for a corded saw. Drills and drivers are
another matter. I only have one corded drill anymore (and over a
dozen cordless drivers and drills), a 1/2" hammer drill that I've
never used.
Jan Panteltje
Apr 11, 2014, 2:28:08 AM4/11/14
to
On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700) it happened John Larkin
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote in
<rc5ek9hh44dpr9bkj...@4ax.com>:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>year or two.
>>
>>You have a cellphone?
>
>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>
>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>especially when the battery is two years old.
Yes, true, at 100% charge /discharge about 350 times or so on a lipo.
I have VARTA datasheet somewhere .. for the LP523450LP I am using (3.7 V 1Ah single cell):
300 cycles at > 80% capacity
500 cycles at > 70% capacity
2 years...
Cellphones do not always discharge 100%, had my Nokia for at least 3 years, charged every day.
Ther are bad batteries too, some die after a week.
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote in
<rc5ek9hh44dpr9bkj...@4ax.com>:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>year or two.
>>
>>You have a cellphone?
>
>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>
>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>especially when the battery is two years old.
I have VARTA datasheet somewhere .. for the LP523450LP I am using (3.7 V 1Ah single cell):
300 cycles at > 80% capacity
500 cycles at > 70% capacity
2 years...
Cellphones do not always discharge 100%, had my Nokia for at least 3 years, charged every day.
Ther are bad batteries too, some die after a week.
Jan Panteltje
Apr 11, 2014, 2:31:13 AM4/11/14
to
On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:35:53 -0400) it happened k...@attt.bizz
wrote in <q27ek9p5tfblb9bmm...@4ax.com>:
>>But limited number of charge discharge cycles lipos have,
>>John is right about that (350 times perhaps).
>
>*Easily* 500 cycles and more like 1000. Because the self-discharge is
>so small, that's generally a long time.
See my reply to Jonhn, about the Varta datasheet
Or google Varta LP523450DL lithium ion.
wrote in <q27ek9p5tfblb9bmm...@4ax.com>:
>>But limited number of charge discharge cycles lipos have,
>>John is right about that (350 times perhaps).
>
>*Easily* 500 cycles and more like 1000. Because the self-discharge is
>so small, that's generally a long time.
Or google Varta LP523450DL lithium ion.
Jan Panteltje
Apr 11, 2014, 6:11:35 AM4/11/14
to
Had the 'suction motor' on the lab supply.
12V 300mA (280 mA when vacuum sucked, not much sucking power really).
It has some temp sensor mounted on the side, so is protected.
Nothing wrong with the motor.
Stupid hobbyist amateur LG design sensor system,
bridged the sensor resistor in the driver with a 10 cm piece of
wire from flat cable, works 100% OK now, apart from its other quirks.
It came after me! wow.
2 minute soldering job, its running now.
And its silent, pulled the speaker plug!
Hit my plant again too, just in time stopped it from falling over by pressing stop on the remote.
Will it go up in flames if the motor shorts or something?
Well there is something to say for that, probably sets the lipo on fire or
burns the PCB, but my experience is that the resistance of the strand of flatcable
is so high that it will shut of its sensors anyways, and the thermal cutout on the motor as last resort.
And I Am Watching It.
Shit it just pulled out the cable to the LED lights.
Spehro Pefhany
Apr 11, 2014, 7:54:15 AM4/11/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 16:42:37 -0700, the renowned John Larkin
I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:37:39 -0400, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
>><jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
>>><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>>>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>>>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>>>
>>>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>>>year or two.
>>>>
>>>>You have a cellphone?
>>>
>>>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>>>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>>>
>>>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>>>especially when the battery is two years old.
>>
>>You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
>>You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
>>count).
>
>120 volts, 15 amps is 1800 watts. Lots of circular saws pull 13 amps,
>1560 watts.
Cordless circular saws (even small 6.5" ones) are close to useless.
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:37:39 -0400, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
>><jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
>>><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>>>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>>>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>>>
>>>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>>>year or two.
>>>>
>>>>You have a cellphone?
>>>
>>>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>>>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>>>
>>>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>>>especially when the battery is two years old.
>>
>>You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
>>You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
>>count).
>
>120 volts, 15 amps is 1800 watts. Lots of circular saws pull 13 amps,
>1560 watts.
I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
John Larkin
Apr 11, 2014, 10:19:34 AM4/11/14
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On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 10:11:35 GMT, Jan Panteltje <pNaonSt...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>
I work with electronics all day. We have to think really hard to solve complex
puzzles, sometimes under pressure from customers. I absolutely don't want to
come home and battle buggy firmware and puzzle over someone else's bizarre user
interfaces. Cord, switch, motor is the maximum level of complexity I want to
manage when I'm not being paid to do it.
I use PCs at work, so I got my wife all Apple stuff, specifically so I can't be
expected to help her with it.
wrote:
>
puzzles, sometimes under pressure from customers. I absolutely don't want to
come home and battle buggy firmware and puzzle over someone else's bizarre user
interfaces. Cord, switch, motor is the maximum level of complexity I want to
manage when I'm not being paid to do it.
I use PCs at work, so I got my wife all Apple stuff, specifically so I can't be
expected to help her with it.
Jan Panteltje
Apr 11, 2014, 11:54:16 AM4/11/14
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On a sunny day (Fri, 11 Apr 2014 07:19:34 -0700) it happened John Larkin
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<68ufk9l8ubs4edmn2...@4ax.com>:
Yea, well I made my living for a long time in broadcast,
and 'the show must go on', and how the f*k you do it at that moment is less important.
And that was in shifts too, 12 hour days...
Increasing complexity, came from tubes to integrated circuits, 10 minutes
is a long time but you need to fix something you have sometimes never seen before, and
especially never used before... in less if possible.
So its always fun to fix things, keeps the mind alive, had the diagnosis 100% right.
I am not impressed by any of your complex designs as far as complexity goes,
have you ever seen the circuit diagram of a color TV studio?
And the equipment in it?
Just wrote an other display driver today... between coffees, build the test hardware too.
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<68ufk9l8ubs4edmn2...@4ax.com>:
and 'the show must go on', and how the f*k you do it at that moment is less important.
And that was in shifts too, 12 hour days...
Increasing complexity, came from tubes to integrated circuits, 10 minutes
is a long time but you need to fix something you have sometimes never seen before, and
especially never used before... in less if possible.
So its always fun to fix things, keeps the mind alive, had the diagnosis 100% right.
I am not impressed by any of your complex designs as far as complexity goes,
have you ever seen the circuit diagram of a color TV studio?
And the equipment in it?
Just wrote an other display driver today... between coffees, build the test hardware too.
John Larkin
Apr 11, 2014, 12:19:32 PM4/11/14
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/DSC09478.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/Rear.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/Tem2_Top.jpg
PCIe interface, FPGA, ARM, several fiberoptic picosecond-resolution time
stampers, 16 1-ns resolution fiberoptic pulse outputs (pretty clever, wish it
was my idea), a piezo driver ARB, 16 fast energy sensor interfaces, system and
PLC interfaces, Ethernet, 68 total connectors to the outside world. Lots of
mixed analog and digital technologies.
Jan Panteltje
Apr 11, 2014, 2:15:30 PM4/11/14
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On a sunny day (Fri, 11 Apr 2014 09:19:32 -0700) it happened John Larkin
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<eu4gk9d3ftiu93fec...@4ax.com>:
>This is pretty complex:
>
>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/DSC09478.JPG
>
>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/Rear.jpg
>
>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/Tem2_Top.jpg
>
>PCIe interface, FPGA, ARM, several fiberoptic picosecond-resolution time
>stampers, 16 1-ns resolution fiberoptic pulse outputs (pretty clever, wish it
>was my idea), a piezo driver ARB, 16 fast energy sensor interfaces, system and
>PLC interfaces, Ethernet, 68 total connectors to the outside world. Lots of
>mixed analog and digital technologies.
OK now imagine a couple of thousand of boxes like that, all different of course,
with miles and miles of cable interconnect, multiple control points, MW
power consumption (all together) and thousands of people working with these,
and flipped out screaming directors and a short timetable.
And locations, size, remote, satellite links, and all on the tick of the clock,
and you have a modern broadcast complex.
Light, sound, video,
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
<eu4gk9d3ftiu93fec...@4ax.com>:
>This is pretty complex:
>
>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/DSC09478.JPG
>
>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/Rear.jpg
>
>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/TEM2/Tem2_Top.jpg
>
>PCIe interface, FPGA, ARM, several fiberoptic picosecond-resolution time
>stampers, 16 1-ns resolution fiberoptic pulse outputs (pretty clever, wish it
>was my idea), a piezo driver ARB, 16 fast energy sensor interfaces, system and
>PLC interfaces, Ethernet, 68 total connectors to the outside world. Lots of
>mixed analog and digital technologies.
with miles and miles of cable interconnect, multiple control points, MW
power consumption (all together) and thousands of people working with these,
and flipped out screaming directors and a short timetable.
And locations, size, remote, satellite links, and all on the tick of the clock,
and you have a modern broadcast complex.
Light, sound, video,
Jon Elson
Apr 11, 2014, 2:47:16 PM4/11/14
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Jan Panteltje wrote:
> Shit it just pulled out the cable to the LED lights.
Yeah, this whole robot thing is highly overrated. Nobody
> Shit it just pulled out the cable to the LED lights.
would have a totally stone drunk sailor run a vacuum in
their home. But, that is what the robot is, it just stumbles
around until it hits something, then backs off and tries
again.
Jon
Jon Elson
Apr 11, 2014, 2:51:21 PM4/11/14
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John Larkin wrote:
>
> I use PCs at work, so I got my wife all Apple stuff, specifically so I
> can't be expected to help her with it.
>
>
Yeah, I'd never be able to get away with that! My wife didn't even know
>
> I use PCs at work, so I got my wife all Apple stuff, specifically so I
> can't be expected to help her with it.
>
>
how to turn off her car alarm when she set it off. Some "helpful"
people started pulling fuses out of the car, and she ended up driving for
half a day with no stop lights and having to override the gearshift
interlock. She had to call me so I could tell her "just lock and unlock
the car with the key and it turns off the alarm."
I've got almost everybody running Linux of various versions, I do
network backups when I get around to it, mostly it all works.
Jon
John Larkin
Apr 11, 2014, 3:23:34 PM4/11/14
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On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 18:15:30 GMT, Jan Panteltje <pant...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
I wouldn't enjoy that. The alpha males would be the producers and the
"artists" and the "talent." Techs and engineers are peons in a culture
like that. And I like to work on time scales of weeks and picoseconds,
not minutes.
There's the same problem in companies started by scientists; EEs get
little respect. It's usually better in companies founded by engineers.
wrote:
"artists" and the "talent." Techs and engineers are peons in a culture
like that. And I like to work on time scales of weeks and picoseconds,
not minutes.
There's the same problem in companies started by scientists; EEs get
little respect. It's usually better in companies founded by engineers.
Phil Hobbs
Apr 11, 2014, 3:49:41 PM4/11/14
to
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
Cydrome Leader
Apr 11, 2014, 4:56:19 PM4/11/14
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k...@attt.bizz
Apr 11, 2014, 6:49:37 PM4/11/14
to
also have an older Makita that's great for cedar siding. It sure as
hell beats a 10lb. corded monster when you're trying to trim a piece
of siding, 15' up a ladder on the side of the house. ;-)
>I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
>that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
diameter branch with a 6" saw? You *have* to be! Haven't you ever
heard of a chain saw, or even a reciprocating saw? ;-)
John Larkin
Apr 11, 2014, 7:15:44 PM4/11/14
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k...@attt.bizz
Apr 11, 2014, 7:33:42 PM4/11/14
to
On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 16:15:44 -0700, John Larkin
Yes, and fingers are still made of skin and bone; much softer than
even wood. Circular saws are very dangerous things when used by a
someone with no respect for them. They are *not* designed for this
sort of thing.
even wood. Circular saws are very dangerous things when used by a
someone with no respect for them. They are *not* designed for this
sort of thing.
John Larkin
Apr 11, 2014, 8:03:46 PM4/11/14
to
the blade, in either case.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 11, 2014, 8:07:12 PM4/11/14
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On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 17:03:46 -0700, John Larkin
You're *wrong*. *PLEASE* leave the power tools to someone who knows
how to use them. You're dangerous.
how to use them. You're dangerous.
John Larkin
Apr 11, 2014, 10:52:50 PM4/11/14
to
transducer. The optimum value wasn't known, so we made it easy to replace in the
field.
The piezo squirts molten tin droplets into space at around 50 KHz.
John Larkin
Apr 12, 2014, 1:21:06 AM4/12/14
to
woodworkers can say.
Spehro Pefhany
Apr 12, 2014, 2:41:41 AM4/12/14
to
On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 18:49:37 -0400, the renowned k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>Cordless circular saws (even small 6.5" ones) are close to useless.
>
>Not so. I have a DeWalt that's quite nice on plywood and such. I
>also have an older Makita that's great for cedar siding. It sure as
>hell beats a 10lb. corded monster when you're trying to trim a piece
>of siding, 15' up a ladder on the side of the house. ;-)
>
>>I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
>>that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
>
>A circular saw used on a tree? You must be suicidal. Cutting a 2"
>diameter branch with a 6" saw? You *have* to be! Haven't you ever
>heard of a chain saw, or even a reciprocating saw? ;-)
The branches were on the ground. Just cutting them into 3' pieces for
>
>>Cordless circular saws (even small 6.5" ones) are close to useless.
>
>Not so. I have a DeWalt that's quite nice on plywood and such. I
>also have an older Makita that's great for cedar siding. It sure as
>hell beats a 10lb. corded monster when you're trying to trim a piece
>of siding, 15' up a ladder on the side of the house. ;-)
>
>>I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
>>that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
>
>A circular saw used on a tree? You must be suicidal. Cutting a 2"
>diameter branch with a 6" saw? You *have* to be! Haven't you ever
>heard of a chain saw, or even a reciprocating saw? ;-)
bundling so the city would haul them off. I'm not getting up on a
ladder with a cordless circular saw. ;-)
I don't have a gas chain saw (just an antique electric one without
guards). The Hitachi version of a sawzall might have been better but I
think the blade had gone walkabout.
Cordless drill: Great, especially when you have at least 2 batteries
Cordless sawzall: okay
Cordless circular saw: pretty much useless
Flashlight attachement: Great because it sits up nicely when in the
attic
The power tool that I really don't like using is the table saw. Much
more so the slider radial arm saw, and way more than a lathe or mill.
Apparently the first thing most folks do is remove that stupid thing
that marks up wood and helps keep it from randomly flinging stuff
toward you at high velocity (riving something?).
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 12, 2014, 11:34:55 AM4/12/14
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this, even as a hobby. You *will* hurt yourself.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 12, 2014, 11:54:33 AM4/12/14
to
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 02:41:41 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
<spef...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:
>On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 18:49:37 -0400, the renowned k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>
>>>Cordless circular saws (even small 6.5" ones) are close to useless.
>>
>>Not so. I have a DeWalt that's quite nice on plywood and such. I
>>also have an older Makita that's great for cedar siding. It sure as
>>hell beats a 10lb. corded monster when you're trying to trim a piece
>>of siding, 15' up a ladder on the side of the house. ;-)
>>
>>>I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
>>>that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
>>
>>A circular saw used on a tree? You must be suicidal. Cutting a 2"
>>diameter branch with a 6" saw? You *have* to be! Haven't you ever
>>heard of a chain saw, or even a reciprocating saw? ;-)
>
>The branches were on the ground. Just cutting them into 3' pieces for
>bundling so the city would haul them off. I'm not getting up on a
>ladder with a cordless circular saw. ;-)
Cutting live wood with a circular saw is *not* a good idea. First,
<spef...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:
>On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 18:49:37 -0400, the renowned k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>>
>>>Cordless circular saws (even small 6.5" ones) are close to useless.
>>
>>Not so. I have a DeWalt that's quite nice on plywood and such. I
>>also have an older Makita that's great for cedar siding. It sure as
>>hell beats a 10lb. corded monster when you're trying to trim a piece
>>of siding, 15' up a ladder on the side of the house. ;-)
>>
>>>I've got a Hitachi one that came in a kit- cut up few ~2" branches
>>>that were felled by an ice storm and it was already dying.
>>
>>A circular saw used on a tree? You must be suicidal. Cutting a 2"
>>diameter branch with a 6" saw? You *have* to be! Haven't you ever
>>heard of a chain saw, or even a reciprocating saw? ;-)
>
>The branches were on the ground. Just cutting them into 3' pieces for
>bundling so the city would haul them off. I'm not getting up on a
>ladder with a cordless circular saw. ;-)
the pieces aren't round and worse, aren't uniform. When cutting
dimensional lumber, you can clamp the piece so it doesn't move. You
can't (easily) do that with branches. The chances of pinching the
blade are greatly increased and kick-back is a real possibility. That
can really ruin your day.
The Makita isn't much different than operating a cordless screwdriver.
It was quite safe - as safe as an work on a ladder. The saw won't cut
much more than cedar siding, though. Even with a good blade, that's
about all the 4" blade can cut. ;-)
>I don't have a gas chain saw (just an antique electric one without
>guards). The Hitachi version of a sawzall might have been better but I
>think the blade had gone walkabout.
fingers (or worse) aren't fun.
>Cordless drill: Great, especially when you have at least 2 batteries
>Cordless sawzall: okay
>Cordless circular saw: pretty much useless
>Flashlight attachement: Great because it sits up nicely when in the
>attic
>
>The power tool that I really don't like using is the table saw. Much
>more so the slider radial arm saw, and way more than a lathe or mill.
>Apparently the first thing most folks do is remove that stupid thing
>that marks up wood and helps keep it from randomly flinging stuff
>toward you at high velocity (riving something?).
Neither are to be used without a large pile of caution but physics is
working against you with a RAS. A compound slider is much safer but
it's not really comparable to either.
Riving knife? That's basically a splitter on steroids. It keeps the
kerf open so the wood doesn't pinch the board. The difference between
a riving knife and a splitter is that the knife adjusts to the height
of the blade, so can be used for non-thru cuts. They don't damage the
wood in any way.
If you're talking about the "blade guard", it's purpose is to tell you
that your fingers are getting too close. Your eyes should be telling
you that. ;-) Part of many blade guards is a splitter and anti-kick
plaws. I rarely use the guard myself, and prefer a separate splitter
and plaws (removes is seconds). I like to see what I'm doing, also.
Plaws only "mark" the wood if they're needed to save your bacon.
Marking up the wood is a small price. OTOH, I find it simpler to just
not stand in the path of potential projectiles. ;-) BTW, I had
*many* more such problems with my RAS (5, that I can remember) than my
table saw (0). The RAS hasn't been used in well over 20 years. One
day I'll put it back together.
--
John Larkin
Apr 12, 2014, 12:47:20 PM4/12/14
to
metal machining, mills and drill presses and bandsaws, too. A bandsaw is more
dangerous than a circular saw.
You *really* shouldn't take up
>this, even as a hobby. You *will* hurt yourself.
hacksaw. Band-aid level injury.
Spehro Pefhany
Apr 12, 2014, 2:08:13 PM4/12/14
to
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 09:47:20 -0700, the renowned John Larkin
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
>
>A lot, for an electrical engineer. I've also done, and do, a fair amount of
>metal machining, mills and drill presses and bandsaws, too. A bandsaw is more
>dangerous than a circular saw.
I won't have a vertical wood bandsaw. I have one of these
<jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
>
>A lot, for an electrical engineer. I've also done, and do, a fair amount of
>metal machining, mills and drill presses and bandsaws, too. A bandsaw is more
>dangerous than a circular saw.
http://www.grifdigital.com/metalwork/images/bandsaw.jpg
You put a chunk of metal into it, start it, and go get a coffee. It
shuts itself off when it cuts through. Makes a bit of a racket, but
it's a lot nicer than the way a hacksaw sounds when I'm the one doing
the sawing. ;-)
They're like $250-300, courtesy of Chinese manufacturing. Throw outthe
blade it comes with, and put a nice Starrett bimetal blade on it, and
it's ready for work.
Jerry Peters
Apr 12, 2014, 4:18:47 PM4/12/14
to
the path of any projectile.
Cydrome Leader
Apr 12, 2014, 4:56:38 PM4/12/14
to
The chassis seems pretty itense. Are these made in house or to order or
are they start as an off the shelf product?
John Larkin
Apr 12, 2014, 5:05:53 PM4/12/14
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On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 20:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
We did the design, and send the drawings out to a sheet metal shop.
All the sheet metal bits together cost about $180, with PEMS and such.
All the sheet metal bits together cost about $180, with PEMS and such.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 12, 2014, 6:02:04 PM4/12/14
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On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 09:47:20 -0700, John Larkin
Utter nonsense. A bandsaw will not kick-back. A circular saw (skill,
table, or RAS) certainly will, and when it does it spits things at
high velocity, if you're lucky. If you're not, it can suck fingers
into the sharp bits. Bandsaws do not have any failure mode that will
pull you into it or throw things at you.
> You *really* shouldn't take up
>>this, even as a hobby. You *will* hurt yourself.
>
>Haven't so far. My worst tool accident was cutting my finger with a hand
>hacksaw. Band-aid level injury.
That attitude is just asking to lose digits, or worse.
table, or RAS) certainly will, and when it does it spits things at
high velocity, if you're lucky. If you're not, it can suck fingers
into the sharp bits. Bandsaws do not have any failure mode that will
pull you into it or throw things at you.
> You *really* shouldn't take up
>>this, even as a hobby. You *will* hurt yourself.
>
>Haven't so far. My worst tool accident was cutting my finger with a hand
>hacksaw. Band-aid level injury.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 12, 2014, 6:04:00 PM4/12/14
to
across or behind the blade.
Jasen Betts
Apr 14, 2014, 9:07:53 AM4/14/14
to
On 2014-04-10, k...@attt.bizz <k...@attt.bizz> wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
><jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
>><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>>
>>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>>year or two.
>>>
>>>You have a cellphone?
>>
>>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>>
>>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>>especially when the battery is two years old.
> You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
> You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
> count).
Can you buy a 9" angle grinder with less?
> On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 15:07:38 -0700, John Larkin
><jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:50:31 GMT, Jan Panteltje
>><pNaonSt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On a sunny day (Thu, 10 Apr 2014 09:16:12 -0700) it happened John Larkin
>>><jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in
>>><asgdk9d29q9ds7421...@4ax.com>:
>>>>
>>>>I avoid battery-powered tools. They are wimpy, and the batteries will die in a
>>>>year or two.
>>>
>>>You have a cellphone?
>>
>>Sure, a simple one. I charge it about every other week, and I've
>>replaced the battery once. But it's not a power tool.
>>
>>You're not going to get a horsepower or so out of a battery for long,
>>especially when the battery is two years old.
> You're not going to get a "horsepower or so" out of a hand tool.
> You're in the stationary tool realm at a HP (Craftsman HPs don't
> count).
(would anyone want to?)
granted these tools need both hands, but they are hand tools.
--
umop apisdn
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
Jeroni Paul
Apr 14, 2014, 4:00:27 PM4/14/14
to
Sometimes conductive dust accumulates in the gaps between rotor contacts and causes a partial short. This increases current draw and lowers performance and is a common cause for motor drivers to sense an overload.
John Larkin
Apr 14, 2014, 11:52:17 PM4/14/14
to
Cydrome Leader
Apr 15, 2014, 1:56:29 PM4/15/14
to
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 15, 2014, 7:22:03 PM4/15/14
to
what he's doing, in fact. There is a reason these tools exist.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 15, 2014, 7:22:23 PM4/15/14
to
Cydrome Leader
Apr 16, 2014, 2:41:33 PM4/16/14
to
than a chainsaw.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 16, 2014, 7:20:10 PM4/16/14
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On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 18:41:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
Then you can't think. Each tool has its uses and its dangers. Using
the wrong tool is always dangerous.
the wrong tool is always dangerous.
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 16, 2014, 8:08:50 PM4/16/14
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On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 17:04:52 -0700, John Larkin
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>I have noticed that, most of the time, there is something within reach
>that will work well enough.
Yeah, a friend thought the same thing about hammers, until he used a
framing hammer to drive cut nails. Some ten eye surgeries later he
figured out just what a mistake that was.
<jla...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>that will work well enough.
Yeah, a friend thought the same thing about hammers, until he used a
framing hammer to drive cut nails. Some ten eye surgeries later he
figured out just what a mistake that was.
John Larkin
Apr 16, 2014, 8:04:52 PM4/16/14
to
On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 19:20:10 -0400, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
I have noticed that, most of the time, there is something within reach
that will work well enough.
that will work well enough.
Michael A. Terrell
Apr 16, 2014, 10:11:15 PM4/16/14
to
Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>
> The branches were on the ground. Just cutting them into 3' pieces for
> bundling so the city would haul them off. I'm not getting up on a
> ladder with a cordless circular saw. ;-)
>
> I don't have a gas chain saw (just an antique electric one without
> guards). The Hitachi version of a sawzall might have been better but I
> think the blade had gone walkabout.
>
> Cordless drill: Great, especially when you have at least 2 batteries
> Cordless sawzall: okay
> Cordless circular saw: pretty much useless
> Flashlight attachement: Great because it sits up nicely when in the
> attic
>
> The power tool that I really don't like using is the table saw. Much
> more so the slider radial arm saw, and way more than a lathe or mill.
> Apparently the first thing most folks do is remove that stupid thing
> that marks up wood and helps keep it from randomly flinging stuff
> toward you at high velocity (riving something?).
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Cydrome Leader
Apr 17, 2014, 4:02:58 PM4/17/14
to
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 17, 2014, 8:16:47 PM4/17/14
to
On Thu, 17 Apr 2014 20:02:58 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
Yes.
Cydrome Leader
Apr 18, 2014, 1:08:24 AM4/18/14
to
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 18, 2014, 12:24:58 PM4/18/14
to
On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 05:08:24 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
It's *not* hardened.
Cydrome Leader
Apr 18, 2014, 1:13:39 PM4/18/14
to
k...@attt.bizz
Apr 18, 2014, 6:09:15 PM4/18/14
to
On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 17:13:39 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
An unhardened hammer like a sledge will work. A framing hammer is
much too hard and will shatter, along with the nail. They're meant for
unhardened nails.
much too hard and will shatter, along with the nail. They're meant for
unhardened nails.
Cydrome Leader
Apr 21, 2014, 5:43:27 PM4/21/14
to
hardened. Good tip.
gid...@gmail.com
Jul 5, 2014, 3:37:48 AM7/5/14
to
Hello Jan,
It seems you had some experience with this LG Hombot..., so after you know how it was assembly, can you show picture or explain in more details how to open this device without broken it first.
Thanks,
Gid
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:33:07 PM UTC+3, Jan Panteltje wrote:
> LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly
>
>
>
> I got the open source software from LG,
>
> but no reply on my request for a service manual,
>
> and could not find out how to open it without damaging the plastic.
>
> Anyways It started screaming error messages at me,
>
> and stopped working altogether.
>
> Now that is a guarantee case, but sending it back, paying for return shipment,
>
> just to get an other defective one back?
>
> So, after it kept screaming and the whole neighborhood was now looking what was going on
>
> 'HOMEBOT CANNOT CONTINUE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE SUCTION MOTOR'
>
> I wanted to shoot it, I remember Elvis once shot a TV set..
>
> anyways, wanted to see what was inside, wanted to re-design the piece of shit (do not buy this crap!!!)
>
> so as it was not working anyways, decided to open it the smart and fast way,
>
> dropped it from 1.5 meters on a concrete floor.
>
> that did it.
>
> Red (warning color!!!) cover flipped of, and there were a couple of real screws exposed.
>
> removed these and had a look inside.
>
> This is the main board:
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_PCB_IMG_4432.JPG
>
> The huge white 'chip' in the middle is from these guys:
>
> http://www.minfinity.com/eng/page.php?Main=1&sub=1&tab=2
>
> The processor or whatever it is says ST on it
>
>
>
> The 'suction motor drive' detail is here:
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_board_2_sucktion_motor_drive_detail__IMG_4434.JPG
>
> nothing wrong with the motor, this seems just a MOSFET, motor in drain,
>
> flyback protection diode D21, and sense resistor in the source (R100),
>
> and mystery component BD16, there are several BDxxx in its motor drive circuits, no idea what it is.
>
> The sense resistor seems bad soldered, maybe the solder connection drops too much.
>
> Will put that motor on the lab supply later (just a freaking simple permanent magnet type DC motor).
>
>
>
> An other mystery component, could be camera, there are supposed to be 2, one looking up and one down,
>
> would have been more clever if one was looking were it was going, my plants for example!!, idiots.
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_mystery_component_IMG_4435.JPG
>
>
>
> Anyways maybe the repair group likes this info,
>
> the top red bezel is fixed with click clack plastic hooks, the 'entrance':
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_IMG_4436.JPG
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_back_with_hooks_IMG_4438.JPG
>
>
>
> Seems a hobbyist design on a bad day by just arrived interns.
>
> 'Look we have a robotic vacuum cleaner to.'
>
> Its hight is too high (cannot get under anything).
>
> It get stuck on everything (carpet what not).
>
> I throws over plants.
>
> It scream swith a very loud female voice all the time (into the distortion),
>
> even if you activate 'mute' it screams 'MUTE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED'
>
> Morons!!
>
> And it destroys any cabling you may have, pulled out the wires from the speakers,
>
> grabbed an ethernet cable and pulled it all the way, just pure luck it did not pull the camera connected to it on the floor..
>
>
>
> My first LG product, and absolutely and 100% certain my last even if I got one or ten for free.
>
> Wrote it of, see if I can do better some day, with the parts.
>
>
>
> There marketing is good, maybe they write their own reviews like Samsung.
It seems you had some experience with this LG Hombot..., so after you know how it was assembly, can you show picture or explain in more details how to open this device without broken it first.
Thanks,
Gid
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:33:07 PM UTC+3, Jan Panteltje wrote:
> LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly
>
>
>
> I got the open source software from LG,
>
> but no reply on my request for a service manual,
>
> and could not find out how to open it without damaging the plastic.
>
> Anyways It started screaming error messages at me,
>
> and stopped working altogether.
>
> Now that is a guarantee case, but sending it back, paying for return shipment,
>
> just to get an other defective one back?
>
> So, after it kept screaming and the whole neighborhood was now looking what was going on
>
> 'HOMEBOT CANNOT CONTINUE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE SUCTION MOTOR'
>
> I wanted to shoot it, I remember Elvis once shot a TV set..
>
> anyways, wanted to see what was inside, wanted to re-design the piece of shit (do not buy this crap!!!)
>
> so as it was not working anyways, decided to open it the smart and fast way,
>
> dropped it from 1.5 meters on a concrete floor.
>
> that did it.
>
> Red (warning color!!!) cover flipped of, and there were a couple of real screws exposed.
>
> removed these and had a look inside.
>
> This is the main board:
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_PCB_IMG_4432.JPG
>
> The huge white 'chip' in the middle is from these guys:
>
> http://www.minfinity.com/eng/page.php?Main=1&sub=1&tab=2
>
> The processor or whatever it is says ST on it
>
>
>
> The 'suction motor drive' detail is here:
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_main_board_2_sucktion_motor_drive_detail__IMG_4434.JPG
>
> nothing wrong with the motor, this seems just a MOSFET, motor in drain,
>
> flyback protection diode D21, and sense resistor in the source (R100),
>
> and mystery component BD16, there are several BDxxx in its motor drive circuits, no idea what it is.
>
> The sense resistor seems bad soldered, maybe the solder connection drops too much.
>
> Will put that motor on the lab supply later (just a freaking simple permanent magnet type DC motor).
>
>
>
> An other mystery component, could be camera, there are supposed to be 2, one looking up and one down,
>
> would have been more clever if one was looking were it was going, my plants for example!!, idiots.
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_mystery_component_IMG_4435.JPG
>
>
>
> Anyways maybe the repair group likes this info,
>
> the top red bezel is fixed with click clack plastic hooks, the 'entrance':
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_IMG_4436.JPG
>
> http://panteltje.com/pub/LG_hombot_entry_door_back_with_hooks_IMG_4438.JPG
>
>
>
> Seems a hobbyist design on a bad day by just arrived interns.
>
> 'Look we have a robotic vacuum cleaner to.'
>
> Its hight is too high (cannot get under anything).
>
> It get stuck on everything (carpet what not).
>
> I throws over plants.
>
> It scream swith a very loud female voice all the time (into the distortion),
>
> even if you activate 'mute' it screams 'MUTE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED'
>
> Morons!!
>
> And it destroys any cabling you may have, pulled out the wires from the speakers,
>
> grabbed an ethernet cable and pulled it all the way, just pure luck it did not pull the camera connected to it on the floor..
>
>
>
> My first LG product, and absolutely and 100% certain my last even if I got one or ten for free.
>
> Wrote it of, see if I can do better some day, with the parts.
>
>
>
> There marketing is good, maybe they write their own reviews like Samsung.
Jonny
Mar 15, 2015, 10:45:36 AM3/15/15
to
This article and the photos helped me open up my LG Hom-Bot 2.0 in order to disconnect the speaker (which was always beeping in the middle of the night).
First I removed the red thin plastic cover: no screws, just plastic clip-on
Discconnected the connector of the "keypad".
Now 5 screws are visible below.
Then I removed the thin black outer plastic cover: no screws, just plastic clip-on
Now a 6th screw is visible below.
Removed 6 screws.
Now I had access to the speaker connector.
There is just 1 speaker and the connector is easy to see and disconnect.
Now I have a silent LG Hom-Bot 2.0, no more disturbing nightly beeping.
Here are all the photos (in random order).
LG Hom-Bot 2.0 disassembly; opening LG Hom-Bot; disconnecting speaker in LG Hom-Bot 2.0;
first remove 2 plastic coverings (no screws, just click-on); thereafter access to 6 screws in black plastic top.
http://i.imgur.com/xS7EVJv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sxojv6g.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6BQEWiI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sH0ISg4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9VuNz4n.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FrlfSNI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hczeh2e.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/alWImKN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sBhMjua.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XStl1BI.jpg
First I removed the red thin plastic cover: no screws, just plastic clip-on
Discconnected the connector of the "keypad".
Now 5 screws are visible below.
Then I removed the thin black outer plastic cover: no screws, just plastic clip-on
Now a 6th screw is visible below.
Removed 6 screws.
Now I had access to the speaker connector.
There is just 1 speaker and the connector is easy to see and disconnect.
Now I have a silent LG Hom-Bot 2.0, no more disturbing nightly beeping.
Here are all the photos (in random order).
LG Hom-Bot 2.0 disassembly; opening LG Hom-Bot; disconnecting speaker in LG Hom-Bot 2.0;
first remove 2 plastic coverings (no screws, just click-on); thereafter access to 6 screws in black plastic top.
http://i.imgur.com/xS7EVJv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sxojv6g.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6BQEWiI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sH0ISg4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9VuNz4n.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FrlfSNI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hczeh2e.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/alWImKN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sBhMjua.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XStl1BI.jpg
fur...@gmail.com
Feb 25, 2016, 11:39:34 AM2/25/16
to
I understand this is a rather old post, but you're the first guy I find who says he actually received the source from LG.
Any chance you still have it somewhere and could upload or send via email/skype/...? Might be a big help to me and my trying-to-mod friends :)
Thanks in advance,
Clock
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