UPS battery life
Andrew Rossmann
and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several
UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has
discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I
put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on.
Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured
about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is
currently up to about 10.7V.
How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will
lose some capacity.
--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.comcast.net/~andyross
nesesu
Andy, It sounds like it may be at least partially sulphated now. I
would turn on the UPS and put a heavier charge rate into it, or, if
that is not possible, then charge it with an external 12V charger. If
it does take a charge, then cycle it a couple of times [discharge/
charge] and then measure how it performs in the UPS under moderate
load. You may have caught it in time, or it may be too far gone. One
really good indicator is if the batttery case has bulged so that there
is a distinct bulge in the sides and ends between the cell separators,
then the battery is definitely 'toast'.
Neil S.
Jeffrey Angus
> I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago.
> I bought 2, and used one immediately.
There's a reason alarm companies change the sealed lead
acid batteries annually. Typical life on them is about
2 years. 4 years on the shelf is well, not good.
Keeping them charged up at all times is the only way to
keep them (or any lead cell) happy and useful.
Jeff
Ian Field
"Andrew Rossmann" <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.278a5d698...@news.eternal-september.org...
Next time you buy a spare battery to save for later, buy a dry-charged
battery with the acid in a separate bottle/applicator.
The Varta motorcycle battery I bought before the UK VAT increase came with a
DIY filling kit so I could store it till I need it, with a bit of shopping
around you should be able to find a DIY filling kit SLA.
PeterD
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will
>lose some capacity.
The battery is likely 'toast' now, I'd suggest replacing it. If you
have a compatible desulfating charger you could try desulfating it,
but I suspect there is little or no hope.
Andrew Rossmann
7845b7...@r16g2000prh.googlegroups.com>, neil_su...@telus.net
says...
> Andy, It sounds like it may be at least partially sulphated now. I
> would turn on the UPS and put a heavier charge rate into it, or, if
> that is not possible, then charge it with an external 12V charger. If
> it does take a charge, then cycle it a couple of times [discharge/
> charge] and then measure how it performs in the UPS under moderate
> load. You may have caught it in time, or it may be too far gone. One
> really good indicator is if the batttery case has bulged so that there
> is a distinct bulge in the sides and ends between the cell separators,
> then the battery is definitely 'toast'.
The battery is physically in good condition. No bulging or anything like
that. Given how low the charge rate is, it'll probably take another day
or two to fully charge. I've seen this battery for about $14 at Amazon,
so it's not that expensive (the shipping is almost as much!) If I can
get it to the point where the UPS doesn't scream 'replace battery', I
can then test it to see how well it works.
I don't have any other real charging source, or at least something I'd
consider safe. The only 12V source I have is an old Radio Shack
regulated 1...@2.5A supply, or some wall warts. The charging rate is low,
but I assume it's probably safer and better for the battery than trying
to charge it quickly?
This all came to a head due to a power outage on Friday. The battery in
one UPS (APC Back UPS 725 ES, 7 AH battery, probably 6+ years old) only
lasted about 5 minutes powering a cable DVR, VCR, and an RF modulator. I
wanted to replace it, but this battery was too weak. Another UPS (same
as the other) running my modem and router ran for an hour before I
decided to turn it off.
Jeff Liebermann
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
>and used one immediately.
Model number please? I'm curious.
>I kept the other on the side as I have several
>UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has
>discharged itself.
If you let a gel cell battery run down for an extended period, it will
sulfate itself rather nicely. Once the terminal voltage drops below
about 11VDC, it's on it's way to the recyclers. I have to charge my
stock of SLA batteries every 6 months or I end up with dead batteries.
Sometimes, even with a 6 month recharge, my older used batteries die.
After 4 years, you have the added enjoyment of plate corrosion, which
is not reversable. For my amusement, I once tore apart a dead SLA
battery to see what's inside. To my surprise, both the lead
(positive) and lead dioxide (negative) plates looked like rather
corroded.
>I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V.
Yep, it's almost dead, but not quite. It might be possible to recover
by overcharging. See:
<http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_and_prolong_lead_acid_batteries>
>I
>put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on.
>Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured
>about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is
>currently up to about 10.7V.
I've often suspected that UPS charging circuits were a bit too
aggressive and have a detrimental effect on battery life. My
conspiracy theory is that most people don't bother to replace dead
batteries and will replace the entire UPS instead. So, premature
battery death will result in more UPS sales. However, the problem is
that UPS's are sold based on their run time and somewhat on how fast
they recharge after a power failure. So, the charging circuits are
designed to squeeze as much charge into the battery as possible, in as
short a time period, rather than for long life.
<http://robots.freehostia.com/Batteries/Batteries.html>
>How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will
>lose some capacity.
Dunno. I've had zero luck with recovering an SLA battery that's been
run down that far.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Dave Platt
In article <MPG.278a5d698...@news.eternal-september.org>,
Andrew Rossmann <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
>and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several
>UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has
>discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I
>put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on.
>Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured
>about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is
>currently up to about 10.7V.
>
>How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will
>lose some capacity.
It sounds as if the battery has become badly sulphated. This is not
uncommon if you let a lead-acid battery sit around un-used... the
lead plates have become coated with a layer of lead sulphate, in a
crystalline form which is both insulating, and difficult to convert
back to a soluble form. The battery now looks pretty much like an
open circuit to the UPS, as it has a very high resistance, and it will
not accept a charge efficiently from the recharging circuit.
To keep this from happening (in the future) it's best to keep the
battery fully charged, via a "float-charge" mechanism at just the
right voltage (which depends somewhat on the temperature).
There are techniques which can be used to de-sulphate a battery and
restore it to at least some degree of usefulness. The techniques
vary in detail, but usually involve applying a higher voltage to the
battery (with a careful limit on the amount of current available!) to
break down the sulphate crystals and allow them to re-dissolve. This
is sometimes done via a "pulser" (which generates short high-voltage
pulses) and sometimes through a dedicated high-voltage supply.
Whether a badly sulphated battery can ever be returned to a
substantial fraction of its original capacity seems to be a somewhat
controversial question... some say yes, some say no. It may depend a
lot on the specifics of the battery type and the degree of sulphation.
Your best bet is probably to just buy a fresh battery, when you know
you need it for one of your USP systems... and check the date code on
the new battery before you buy it to make sure it's really fresh and
hasn't been sitting on a shelf for several years!
--
Dave Platt <dpl...@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
nesesu
> In article <MPG.278a5d698320a034989...@news.eternal-september.org>,
Usually you need to buy the battery a couple of days BEFORE you
discover you need it :-)
At work we had a very large UPS that used 600V of gel-cell 12V
batteries each about the size of a largish car battery. In the 15
years or so that it was in use, there were, perhaps, 5 power failures
and the UPS failed every time even though all the routine maintenance
and testing was observed. Other than the first time when it was only a
month or so old and the inverter blew up [linerally] all the rest of
the failures were due to battery failure.
Neil S.
D Yuniskis
You can also lower the specific gravity of the cells
to prolong life. Of course, only applies to *wet* cells.
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>Whether a badly sulphated battery can ever be returned to a
>substantial fraction of its original capacity seems to be a somewhat
>controversial question... some say yes, some say no. It may depend a
>lot on the specifics of the battery type and the degree of sulphation.
I say maybe. One trick that I've tried, that has worked with lightly
to moderately sulfated batteries, is to clamp it in a paint shaker and
shake along the axis of the plates. If you can't find a paint shaker,
I've used a Sawzall with a custom shaker attachment.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlJ05SJwpU>
Anything that reciprocates will work. The idea is to get the gel or
liquid electrolyte to slosh around, hopefully causing the lead
sulphate coating to break off and fall to the bottom. Unfortunately,
if the plates are badly corroded, instead of the lead sulfate falling
off, the plates will crumble. As a side benefit, you'll get quite an
arm massage with a heavy battery. My batting average is about 50% so
this is not a reliable method. Still, it has produced a few
miraculous battery recoveries.
Jeffrey Angus
> I've used a Sawzall with a custom shaker attachment.
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlJ05SJwpU>
There are betters uses of a sawzall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPEBQ98VoEE
Jeff
(PeteCresswell)
>At work we had a very large UPS that used 600V of gel-cell 12V
>batteries each about the size of a largish car battery. In the 15
>years or so that it was in use, there were, perhaps, 5 power failures
>and the UPS failed every time even though all the routine maintenance
>and testing was observed. Other than the first time when it was only a
>month or so old and the inverter blew up [linerally] all the rest of
>the failures were due to battery failure.
This begs a question that's been bugging me for years: why
doesn't somebody make a UPS that hooks up to a 12-v non-vented
automobile battery?
Automobile batteries are available at many different
price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard,
the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about
maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove
in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be
swapped in for a few more hours working time.
I guess there has tb a reason... but what?
--
PeteCresswell
Jeffrey Angus
> Automobile batteries are available at many different
> price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard,
> the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about
> maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove
> in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be
> swapped in for a few more hours working time.
>
> I guess there has to be a reason... but what?
Short term vs long term capacity.
Automotive batteries really don't like being a long term
power source. You're actually better off getting a Marine
battery for that.
And you probably do NOT want "joe Consumer" dicking about
with a the current capacity (and capacity for impressive
flames and smoke) when he hooks it up wrong or drops a
wrench across the terminals.
Jeff
who where
<jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>On 1/2/2011 5:23 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
>
>> Automobile batteries are available at many different
>> price/quality points, they're pretty much a universal standard,
>> the capacity is there in spades, public knowledge about
>> maintaining/replacing them is widespread, and push-comes-to-shove
>> in an extended outage, the battery in somebody's car can be
>> swapped in for a few more hours working time.
>>
>> I guess there has to be a reason... but what?
>
>Short term vs long term capacity.
>
>Automotive batteries really don't like being a long term
>power source. You're actually better off getting a Marine
>battery for that.
We had a distant radio-communications site that had grid power. It
needed battery backup as the grid certainly didn't provide the 100%
availability that we required of the radio systems. Because of the
distance and the cost of maintenance trips, it was visited annually
(unless a failure occurred).
After some analysis it was determined that the best backup battery
option was the standard "maintenance-free" auto battery, replaced each
year. More expensive batteries didn't stack up economically, and
these also were donated into auto use after retrieval, where they gave
additional service.
PeterD
wrote:
Automotive batteries are not well suited to long, continous drains
that the UPS would require. Using a deep cycle battery (such as a
trolling battery, or an RV battery, would work, but not optimal.)
(PeteCresswell)
>Automotive batteries are not well suited to long, continous drains
>that the UPS would require. Using a deep cycle battery (such as a
>trolling battery, or an RV battery, would work, but not optimal.)
Is that to say with the first power outage and running the
battery to near-exhaustion (assuming there is a means to control
how far down it goes) that the battery would be damaged?
--
PeteCresswell
Jeffrey Angus
In a word, possibly.
The construction of the plates in automotive vs marine (RV)
batteries are different. The Automotive battery is designed
to deliver large amount so f current for short periods of
time.
The marine batteries are designed to for a long term steady
and considerably lower) current draw.
Jeff
Michael A. Terrell
The 12V batteries made for CATV UPS duty are made for high current
and deep cycle loads.
--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
ne...@jecarter.us
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
>and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several
>UPS's that use basically the same battery. Of course, over time, it has
>discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I
>put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on.
>Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured
>about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is
>currently up to about 10.7V.
>
>How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will
>lose some capacity.
A charged but unused SLA should retain its charge for months. The
battery powered cars the grandkids love (got them on freecycle, not
new at $300 each) have 12 volt 10AH SLA batteries and typically get
charged twice a year (when the grandkids are here). I use a Black &
Decker charger that does 1 or2 amp charging (switch selected) and the
1 amp charge works well. The B&D charger is "smarter" than the
original charger which comes with a "do not charge more than X hours"
warning. Many UPS chargers are in the same category - they do a fast
charge to quickly replenish the battery after use, but there is no
"smart" monitoring. I've seen several different brands of small UPS
(300 watts or so) kill batteries in a year or less - even if unused.
The charging circuit simply cooks the battery.
Forget about using a UPS to charge a battery. Instead, buy a real
charger which won't destroy a bettery even if it's left on charge all
the time. For most UPS batteries, I would recommend the Black &
Decker Smart Battery Maintainer. It uses a switch mode power supply
and has LEDs for "charging" and "charge complete". The charger is $22
at amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BM2B-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B000AMOEPA
and I've seen it for about $20 at Target and Walmart. If you can find
the older version with the 1amp/2amp charge level switch, it's even
better on the smaller batteries.
Keep an SLA battery properly charged and it will last a very long
time. The electric cars are typically driven until they no longer
move, so the batteries get a full discharge at relatively high current
(5 amps on level driveway; 15 amps uphill - more if two kids in one
car). These batteries have been in service two years and seem to have
close to their original capacity.
John
Wild_Bill
due to the quality of the batteries you're using.
What is the brand name and model number of the batteries?
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
<ne...@jecarter.us> wrote in message
news:koa4i6luqv4j60hmt...@4ax.com...
Andrew Rossmann
je...@cruzio.com says...
>
> On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
> <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
> >and used one immediately.
>
> Model number please? I'm curious.
The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. The UPS I want
to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS
ES 725. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was
up to about 11.1V this morning. I may try the shake thing another poster
mentioned, as a last resort.
Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them
until I need them!! It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a
convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a
day or two for the program guide to fully reload.
David
about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current
was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I
doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to
a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while
charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry
in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should
be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts
the current should drop off markedly.
David
"Andrew Rossmann" wrote in message
news:MPG.278c14577...@news.eternal-september.org...
Jeff Liebermann
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>In article <npc1i61udidtlunkc...@4ax.com>,
>je...@cruzio.com says...
>>
>> On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
>> <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
>> >and used one immediately.
>>
>> Model number please? I'm curious.
>
>The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270.
That's the very common 12v 7.0A gel cell found in many UPS's. $15 to
$20 almost everywhere.
>The UPS I want
>to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS
>ES 725.
<http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BE725bb>
I have one of those running my home system. It eats a battery every 3
years. What seems to be killing it is that if it operates when I'm
not at home, it runs until the battery is discharged. Do that a few
times, and the battery is dead. Nothing like waking up in the middle
of the night just to turn off the bleeping UPS.
The PowerSonic PS1270 is a good replacement for the stock battery.
>I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was
>up to about 11.1V this morning.
<http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BE350U>
Very similar UPS. It should work.
>I may try the shake thing another poster
>mentioned, as a last resort.
That was me. It's not very reliable way of removing sulfation, but
has supplied a few miraculous revivals.
>Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them
>until I need them!!
Easy. Don't buy them until you need them or invent some scheme to
keep the inventory charged.
>It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a
>convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a
>day or two for the program guide to fully reload.
Switch to Satellite TV. My DirecTV DVR boots and loads in about 5
minutes.
You may want to power cycle your DVR anyway:
<http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Bugs#Bugs>
It is advisable to cold-reboot the DCT once a month, by simply
unplugging the box for 30 seconds. After power is restored,
be patient as the program guide and other features reload
(approx. 20 minutes, 24 hours for the guide to fully populate).
Minor odd DVR behaviors are usually cleared up, and more serious
ones prevented by this procedure. However, sometimes a bug is
still just a bug.
I just made a quick check of my battery collection on the shelf. Last
time I charged them was about 3 months ago. Out of about 8 batteries,
2 of them are showing very low terminal voltage, which is a good
indication that they're dead or dying. So much for charging every 6
months. Most were used when I bought them for $5/ea at a ham radio
swap meet, so I can't really complain.
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
Mysterious Traveler
> In article<npc1i61udidtlunkc...@4ax.com>,
> je...@cruzio.com says...
>>
>> On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 10:01:46 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
>> <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
>>> and used one immediately.
>>
>> Model number please? I'm curious.
>
> The battery I'm trying to recover is a PowerSonic PS1270. The UPS I want
> to put it in (the current battery lasted about 5 minutes) is a Back UPS
> ES 725. I'm trying to use an unused ES 350 to charge it for now. It was
> up to about 11.1V this morning. I may try the shake thing another poster
> mentioned, as a last resort.
>
> Problem is, I buy these things, but then completely forget about them
> until I need them!! It's not too big of a deal, as it's just a
> convenience to try and keep the Comcast DVR powered up as it can take a
> day or two for the program guide to fully reload.
>
brought it back to life for a short while by hooking it to the correct
poles like jump starting a car.
--
Jerry G.
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
> I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
> and used one immediately. I kept the other on the side as I have several
discharged for any length of time will become sulfide damaged.
Under normal use these lead acid jell batteries have a usable lifespan
of about 3 to 4 years. Sometimes I only got about 2 to 3 years out of
the batteries.
Here in our facility we have many UPS's. I keep logs on their
maintenance. I am changing the batteries on an average of about 3
years. If l leave a UPS discharged for more than about a week, I have
to replace the battery. I found they become damaged very fast.
When the UPS is powered off and the battery is left connected inside
it can hold the charge for maybe a week or two. If I disconnect the
battery it will hold enough charge for about a month or maybe two.
Jerry G.
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>I have been following this thread for awhile. Many have talked
>about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current
>was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I
>doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to
>a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while
>charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry
>in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should
>be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts
>the current should drop off markedly.
<http://www.bulldog-battery.com/PDF%20Files/sulphated%20batteries.pdf>
Most cases of sulphation are caused by:
- UNDER CHARGING OR NEGLECT OF EQUALIZING CHARGE
- STANDING IN A PARTIALLY OR COMPLETELY DISCHARGED CONDITION
- LOW ELECTROLYTE
- ADDING ACID
- HIGH SPECIFIC GRAVITY
Note that undercharging is a common cause of sulfation.
10ma qualifies as undercharging.
Ian Field
"Mysterious Traveler" <mysteriou...@dot.net> wrote in message
news:qJ-dnYDXYJLpPL_Q...@giganews.com...
More likely to finnish it off than do it any good!
If sulphation makes a battery reluctant to take any charge current; splice a
bridge rectifier into the neutral lead of a 100W table lamp.
This will give it all the voltage it needs to break down the sulphation, as
the battery terminal voltages approaches normal the lamp will get near to
full brightness, when the terminal voltage falls within the normal range you
can move it to a regular charger.
If the lamp trick doesn't get it going, its time to scrap it and buy a new
one.
ne...@jecarter.us
<wb_wi...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
>I think the reason for the long battery life in this case, is more likely
>due to the quality of the batteries you're using.
>What is the brand name and model number of the batteries?
The batteries are Ebay "cheapies" from International Importers. Their
house brand is "III". See listing here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-10ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/290509772610?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item43a3bb5742
John
Andrew Rossmann
som...@somewhere.com says...
>
> I have been following this thread for awhile. Many have talked
> about sulfated cells and you initially said the charging current
> was less than 10 mA. Given the low battery terminal voltage, I
> doubt the problem is a sulfated battery since sulfation leads to
> a high impedance battery and high terminal voltage while
> charging. I would suspect a problem with the charging circuitry
> in the 'spare' UPS you are using for charging. The current should
> be closer to 1A until the voltage rises some more. At ~13.6 volts
> the current should drop off markedly.
I put the ES 350's own battery back, also somewhat depleted after
sitting awhile. It's a slightly smaller 3.2AH version. After sitting
overnight, I was able to get it the UPS to stay in ON mode if I
unplugged the UPS from power, then plugged it back in. I roughly
measured nearly 100mA of charge. I tried swapping the other battery, and
it was back to 5mA. I'm considering that battery toast.
The battery in the one UPS that lasted only 5 minutes has been drained
once or twice before, so has lost capacity from that. I'll get a pair of
batteries to replace both of the ES 725's I have, as both are nearly the
same age.
Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old
12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the
ones I'll be replacing.
Jeffrey Angus
> Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old
> 12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the
> ones I'll be replacing.
Ace Hardware and Home Depot _should_ have a battery
recycling program since they sell batteries for tools
and emergency lighting. (Both NiCad and gell cells.
If not, look in the yellow pages for a recycling center.
Jeff
Jeff Liebermann
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>I put the ES 350's own battery back, also somewhat depleted after
>sitting awhile. It's a slightly smaller 3.2AH version. After sitting
>overnight, I was able to get it the UPS to stay in ON mode if I
>unplugged the UPS from power, then plugged it back in. I roughly
>measured nearly 100mA of charge. I tried swapping the other battery, and
>it was back to 5mA. I'm considering that battery toast.
Yep, it's dead.
>The battery in the one UPS that lasted only 5 minutes has been drained
>once or twice before, so has lost capacity from that. I'll get a pair of
>batteries to replace both of the ES 725's I have, as both are nearly the
>same age.
Also dead.
Favorite UPS battery vendor of the week:
<http://www.batterywholesale.com>
>Now to figure out where to safely recycle these. I have a pair of old
>12AH's from another UPS that have been sitting around in addition to the
>ones I'll be replacing.
<http://www.call2recycle.org>
See "drop off locations" on the right side of the page.
Not every location will take SLA batteries, so it's best to ask before
leaving a pile on their doorstep. In general, any place that sells
SLA batteries, will also take them for recycling. Also, nobody wants
a leaking battery so make sure it's not dripping acid.
Jeff Liebermann
>The batteries are Ebay "cheapies" from International Importers. Their
>house brand is "III". See listing here:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-10ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/290509772610?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item43a3bb5742
>John
Here's a clue as to battery quality. Note the shipping weight on the
above battery is 7.0 lbs. Now, look at the shipping weight of a real
SLA 12V 7A battery:
<http://www.batterywholesale.com/battery-store/proddetail.html?prodID=232>
which is 9.0 lbs. In most (not all) cases, the quality of an SLA
battery is determined by the amount of lead included.
Michael A. Terrell
Most places that recycle car batteries will take them. Here in
Central Florida I can drop them off at any of the transfer stations. If
they say they can't take them, tell them they are built like car
batteries, but smaller. Or tell them it was on your motorcycle. ;-)
Wild_Bill
days earlier, and noticed that they're low priced, and assumed that they may
also be low quality.
John, your experience with them in somewhat severe service is actually quite
impressive.
Since many of the lead-acid batteries which are available are now made in
China, there probably isn't a reliable method of choosing any particular
brand name for any significantly-better durability.. other than the
comparatively very expensive premium quality U.S. or UK brands.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
<ne...@jecarter.us> wrote in message
news:9ql6i69nddi774e7d...@4ax.com...
Andrew Rossmann
andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net says...
>
> I have a battery I bought for an APC UPS about 4 years ago. I bought 2,
> discharged itself. I measured about 4.3V instead of the normal 12-13V. I
> put it in a spare UPS, which immedialy complains if I try to turn it on.
> Luckily, the UPS charges even when it is off, but slowly. I measured
> about 15mA initially, and after about 36 hours, about 7.5mA. It is
> currently up to about 10.7V.
>
> How much damage do you think was done to the battery? I know it will
> lose some capacity.
Just a note that on that dead battery, the manufacturer date code (how
to read the code was on the PowerSonic web site) was from December 2002,
and it had never been used. No wonder it was dead!
I went and bought 2 replacement batteries. I should have done my
homework first and looked at what was actually in the UPS's. The battery
I found on-line was a PowerSonic PS-1270. This is a basic, 12V 7AH
battery. They are dated from October and November of 2010. The battery I
took out of the UPS, after removing the APC label, was a BB Batttery
HR9-12. This is a 9AH HighRate. The PowerSonic equivalent would be the
PSH-1280FR. The date code for the BB battery is DD021018. Haven't found
how to read that, yet.
Just how much life will I lose with these 7AH batteries, and do you
think the HR rating will make a difference? The UPS is rated 725VA,
although I only have a VCR and cable box plugged into it the backup
section.
Costwise, it wasn't too big a deal. The 2 batteries ($14 each) and
shipping ($13 for the pair) were about the same as buying a single
genuine APC battery. I bought them from PortablePower.com, via Amazon.
They do have the PowerSonic 1280 for $20.50. Any suggestions for any
other brand that you may trust more?
who where
<andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote:
>Just a note that on that dead battery, the manufacturer date code (how
>to read the code was on the PowerSonic web site) was from December 2002,
>and it had never been used. No wonder it was dead!
>
>I went and bought 2 replacement batteries. I should have done my
>homework first and looked at what was actually in the UPS's. The battery
>I found on-line was a PowerSonic PS-1270. This is a basic, 12V 7AH
>battery. They are dated from October and November of 2010. The battery I
>took out of the UPS, after removing the APC label, was a BB Batttery
>HR9-12. This is a 9AH HighRate. The PowerSonic equivalent would be the
>PSH-1280FR. The date code for the BB battery is DD021018. Haven't found
>how to read that, yet.
If I follow the story correctly, your dead battery was originally
purchased as a "spare". Ergo you had the subject UPS at that time or
shortly thereafter. Is there any reason you haven't gone with the
logical YYMMDD interpretation of the BB date?
>Just how much life will I lose with these 7AH batteries, and do you
>think the HR rating will make a difference? The UPS is rated 725VA,
>although I only have a VCR and cable box plugged into it the backup
>section.
IMOE the main issue with using "standard" (as opposed to high rate)
batteries in a UPS is they are being operated outside their design
envelope at any decent proportion of UPS load capability - which in
your case *may* be irrelevant. I have seen standard batteries'
deliverable capacity deteriorate after a handful of serious
discharges in UPS duty, and the HR units haven't exhibited this. One
thing I haven't actually done is measure temp rise in the battery
after a full load discharge to cutoff - THAT would be a telling
comparison.
We always reload SLA/VRLA-based UPS with HR batteries.
>Costwise, it wasn't too big a deal. The 2 batteries ($14 each) and
>shipping ($13 for the pair) were about the same as buying a single
>genuine APC battery. I bought them from PortablePower.com, via Amazon.
>They do have the PowerSonic 1280 for $20.50. Any suggestions for any
>other brand that you may trust more?
Most "genuine APC" batteries we have seen are BB anyway.