I am looking at a surround sound stereo receiver for a freind (Pioneer
RX-570). Every time i plug it in it blows a fuse inside the unit. I've
opened it up looking for any obvious signs, but nothing looks out of order
except for the blown fuse. I borrowed a multimeter and probed around a bit
looking for broken circuits or whatnot. The only thing i found that was out
of line to ME (having little experience) was that there was a brown,
cylindrical object about a quarter inch long with two red and one green line
going around it in which when probed, had no needle movement(in ohms) on the
multimeter. I have placed the probes on it different ways on either end but
no dice. I did some reading on the net about it and i believe it to be
resistor. It's my understanding that resistors resist current, but do not
block it, so i figure there should be SOME current coming through, shouldn't
there? I have no training in electronics and know very little about it, but
i'm hoping to learn. If someone replys trying to help me, please keep the
lingo simple for me. Thanks!
If you really want to learn electronics, get the service manual to this
thing. It might be available on the net somewhere for free or a small
fee. just google it. Then figure out what the symbols in the schematic
of the service manual mean and what they do. know what a transistor
does. This is a good start.
To directly answer your question, the round thing is a resistor. Get a
resistor color code guide (free on net) and it will show you that red
red green (in that order with a 4th band after green) is 2.2 mega ohm.
thats a lot, and probably wont make the needle move much, but a digital
multimeter should be able to read it ok. Usually resistors are ok
unless they look bad, but not always. I usually asume they are fine
and only test them when i get really stumped.
Hope this helps.
Arfa
I thoroughly agree with Arfa. Don't keep probing around if you haven't
so much as the basic component knowledge necessary- you will make
things worse, possibly putting the appliance beyond economical repair,
and may do yourself an injury.
IMO there is nothing worse from a tech's point of view, than trying to
sort out the aftermath of someone's inexperienced poking (which often
transforms the original straightforward fix into an expensive component
swapping mess). Some repair shops even refuse to deal with such items.
Do yourself and your mate a favour and put the top back on it!
-b.
> first, dont go poking around with a meter with a needle. Get a digital
> meter if possible, or know where you are poking. The reason being that
> the needle type meters can cause current to flow where it shouldn't.
> That is you might blow things by just looking at the resistance across
> them. This is especially true with mosfets, but it sounds like you
> don't know what those are.
surely the deals the same with dmms, no?
Arfa Daily wrote:
>Believe me when I tell you that you've only got to look
>sideways at these DC coupled amps, to make them blow their output stages.
oh, horrors. The only thing you'll learn on dc coupled stuff is how
frustrating tronics can be.
NT
This unit was designed to blow the audio output transistors if a short
is detected on any of the B + lines. If the cassette motor shorts,
for example, the audio amplifier blows. These units can be modified
so this doesn't happen, but I wouldn't recommend repairing one of
these and I spent over 20 years in the consumer audio field. Chuck
These models are NOT for newbies or beginners. I have a lots of experience
on these - my old posts on them still come up from time to time. Trust me
and the others here who have advised you to get out of this one. If you're
wanting to learn electronics, don't do it with one of these.
Mark Z.
ISTM that the general opinion is that you probably have 1940's Ford repair
skills and you are trying to fix a Prius. Probably not looking at a good
result here.
...have you paid *any* attention to what people have posted in response
to your original question??
-b.
No, you're right - it doesn't hurt to ask. You did, and we answered you with
what we considered to be honest advice. We really aren't trying to be
obstructive or offensive to you, or to drive you away from the group. You
could learn much by hanging out here. However, although soldering some
transistors will, almost without doubt, be involved in the repair, without
detailed knowledge of how to repair DC coupled amplifiers, you will only
gain lots of skill in replacing and soldering output transistors, because
you will be replacing them again, and again, and again, until your wallet is
empty, or your supplier has run out of them.
Trust me when I tell you, with 35 years experience in fixing these things,
that with the level of skill that you currently possess, you WILL NOT
succeed in repairing this amplifier.
If you are determined to take it a bit further, you could check the bridge
rectifier for shorts, but you will have to remove it to check that you are
not reading across a fault elsewhere ( do you even have desoldering
equipment / skills that will allow you to remove multi-leg items from a
board without damaging the print ? ) If it's not the bridge, then you could
try measuring on ohms across the two main smoothing caps, where you will
almost certainly read a short, from bad output transistors. This will only
be the tip of the iceberg though. As well as bad output transistors, there
will be bad drivers, open resistors, maybe bad diodes, and a trail that can
end you up in the preamps.
If these things can make experienced engineers cry, I hesitate to think what
effect they might have on a beginner. Keep up the interest, but please take
well-intentioned advice from everyone, and walk away from this one.
Arfa
I'm fond of saying that Pioneer's engineers should go to jail for this one.
(even though it was really Mitsumi who made those amp modules)
There is a so-called "protection" circuit which operates to INTENTIONALLY
destroy the output transistors if any fault is detected. A power supply
voltage down, a bad cassette motor, bad op-amp IC, etc can cause the output
transistors to fail. All this to make the fuse blow, so the unit cannot
continue under the fault condition.
Sort of like designing a car engine to throw a rod if a brake light goes
out, so that you cannot continue to operate the unsafe vehicle.
Mark Z.
> It doesn't hurt to ask. I can can look up anything that i don't know. But if
> it's such a big problem, forget it. JEEZ! o_0
That looks like a no to me. OK then, look up design of dc coupled amps.
Get back to us in 2 years time.
NT
If you seriously want to understand this one, google for the schematic
of a dc coupled amp and try and follow it thru, see how it works. Just
make sure youre not in any way suicidal beforehand.
NT
Try learning to repair simpler things - small appliances or basic radios.
Work your way up to nasty stuff like this.
> hi Homer,
> check your audio output power Transiters Q7511, Q7512 A1264 or Nte37,
> Q7513,Q7514- C3181 or Nte36 fuse FU1101 6.3a 125v this use come from full
> volum without speakers attached hope this help.
You need to tell the OP.
Arfa