Philips TC motherboard replacement

[Lissa Niles]

I'm not so great at soldering or de-soldering components - SO ...I was
wondering if it is at all possible to simply purchase and replace the
motherboard (the main board) for my Philips/Magnavox TV? If so, where
could I purchase the replacement part?

The part that is causing the problem is the power supply where the
metal "C" clamp like thing is cracked.

Pictures of the problem part can be found at http://www.itm.com/tv/

All picures there refer to the part that is broken. I don't think I
can personally fix it, but I believe that it would be easy to replace
the "mother board".

Thanks for any help!

Melissa

[Bill Jr]

Lissa,
Since you already have the board out of the set, look on the edge of the
board for a white bar-coded info tag that will have the chassis number on
it. It should be something similar to EMF804B002 or similar number. With
this information you can call 1-800-851-8885 and order it from Philips and
have it sent to you. The cost should be less than $200.00 if they have it in
stock. Usually they don't have very many full chassis available to sell but
you might be lucky.
The part you would need to fix yours is the Flyback/Line Output Transformer.
Part number for that would be 242253102327 and should cost you less than
$50.00
Please note that this part may have failed due to problems in the power
supply or horizontal drive circuits and may not be the only part needed to
obtain a successful repair.
Good Luck
Bill Jr

"Lissa Niles" <ne...@itm.com> wrote in message
news:ac3321c8.01100...@posting.google.com...

[Lissa Niles]

Thank you! I will do this.

"Bill Jr" <bi...@nospam.usa2net.net> wrote in message news:<YX_v7.310977$8c3.55...@typhoon.tampabay.rr.com>...

[CLSNOWYOWL]

Actually, changing out the board is not necessarily the best idea either. I say
this because the chips and IC's on the new board might not actually match the
chips and IC's on the old board. Besides, the replacement boards are not
usually complete and you have to do some soldering anyway, most likely to
actually change out the board (for the transformer power supply, yolk, and
other connections to go out from the old board to be placed onto the new
board). Unless the board is broken, it sounds expensive and very time consuming
to do this. It take a great deal of time, patience, inclination, the proper
tools, and experience to do this. The main reasons were stated but the most
important reason is your safety and the fact there is an easier and much less
expensive way to do the repair, if you attempt to get into the set yourself.
Again, if you get into the set yourself when under warranty (it appears you
already have), you will void any warranty the set had.

It is easier and much more inexpensive to solder the devices individually on
the board (point to point soldering) you solder what you see exactly on the
board.

To solder, simply disconnect the set from its power source. Use a high voltage
probe to discharge the picture tube (puts out up to 30,000 volts at the anode
cap) and all of the capacitors in the power supply.

see safety procedures in:

http://www.repairfaq.org

Pick up a weller soldering iron for about $14.00 at a specialty electronics
shop and some chemwick.030 rosin core solder for $7.00 a roll and some chemwick
desolder braid for about $2.50 a small roll. You just retouch the traces by
applying a hot iron to solder (have solderwick handy to remove the excess) and
do not join two points that are not supposed to touch one another.

Use solder liberally, but just not too excessively and solder on as level a
surface as possible. Make sure not to miss a connection. Count to three with
the hot iron when applying the solder. Then release from the connection point.
The connection point should be a silvery color. If the solder is discolored or
greyish, the solder connection is a cold solder. After the solder cools, it
should be silver. Careful, rosin core solder will spray rosin splashes on your
fingers. Hold the fingers and hands at least 6 inches away from the tip to
prevent burns or wear leather gloves.

For stubborn connections, apply a tiny bit of new solder, then apply desolder
braid to the old solder and lift off (don't burn your hands). remember go point
to point. solder what should be soldered only (as you see it) do not try to
join to points together that were not originally together (or you will possibly
short out the components or circuitry on the circuit board).

Try to be very methodical, use correct size tip (.033 or thereabouts for this
kind of work), use magnification for the really intricate stuff you can't see,
use proper lighting, and make sure to use no more than a 30 watt iron (with
temperature of no more than 600 degrees at its hottest- 60/40 solder (an alloy
of aluminum and tin) melts at 450 degrees.

Hope this helps. Good luck and be very alert when you do this.

Charles Lucas
NARTE licensed technician, 3rd class
EIA certified Technician

Subject: Philips TC motherboard replacement
From: ne...@itm.com (Lissa Niles)
Date: 10/7/101 4:08 AM EST
Message-id: <ac3321c8.01100...@posting.google.com>