remote control keypad conductivity repair
Thomas Williams
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?
Phil Allison
"Thomas Williams"
>
> For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
> don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
> coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
> buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
> may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
> of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
** Think the graphite might simply dissolve in the silicone adhesive and the
surface remain non conducting.
Conductive glues are rare animals for this reason.
Why don't YOU try it ??
.... Phil
Jamie
Phil Allison
"Jamie the Radio Ham "
** Post only to the OP - you fucking, fuckwit.
I'm not the one with the problem.
..... Phil
Jamie
>
> I'm not the one with the problem.
>
Are you sure ?
>
> ..... Phil
>
>
>
:)
Phil Allison
"Jamie the fuckwit Radio Ham "
** Post only to the OP - you fucking, fuckwit.
The OP has the problem.
..... Phil
Jeff Liebermann
I use conductive paste:
<http://www.hifi-remote.com/manuals/p8/rs-rf.shtml?15-1995#wornout>
<http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/auto_glass_lens_repair/Permatex_Quick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Kit.htm>
If available, I've also used Aquadag (water based graphite paste).
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquadag>
Before you attack, clean both the graphite button bottom and the gold
contacts on the PCB with alcohol. It might just be grease on the
contacts.
The problem with mixing your own conductive graphite concoction is
that only a few formulations are actually conductive. If you don't
add enough graphite, or the graphite particles are too small, they
will not touch each other and therefore will not be conductive. I've
tried to make my own conductive glue with powdered aluminum and epoxy.
It failed badly and was mostly an insulator. I eventually got it to
conduct by radically adjusting the aluminum to epoxy ratio, but with
little epoxy to act as a binder, it was terminally brittle.
Anyway, try it. You might get lucky and find the right combination of
grain size and graphite to glue ratio. Test with an ohms guesser.
Your remote should work with anything less than about 1,000 ohms per
square, but I'm guessing:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_resistance>
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>I use conductive paste:
><http://www.hifi-remote.com/manuals/p8/rs-rf.shtml?15-1995#wornout>
><http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/auto_glass_lens_repair/Permatex_Quick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Kit.htm>
>If available, I've also used Aquadag (water based graphite paste).
><http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquadag>
One more:
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Glue-and-Glue-a-Circuit/>
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Glue-And-Conductive-Thread-Make-an-LED/step1/Make-Conductive-Glue-Conductive-Paint-and-Conduc/>
I haven't tried these but they sure look plausible.
Angelo Campanella
"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:8osf6m...@mid.individual.net...
> Conductive glues are rare animals for this reason.
I ran the abut in this problem a few years ago. Previously, disassembly
and cleanout with detergent water worked to perk up a balking RC. But a few
years later, that did not solve all dropouts. I took to scrubbing the little
rubber conducting boots with lacquer thinner, but that still did not solve
eve half the dropouts.
My last resort was to add an aluminum foil bits the size of the
footprint to each contact. That perked up about half the dropouts, still not
good enough for serious cassette and DVD watching where the program content
was recorded off of standard broadcast with its weighty commercial content.
As a "last" resort (there is really always "just-one-more" to be found),
I went to mother Radio Shack and bought a universal control. It included my
VCR and TV codes, so now I'm back to 95% RC functioning (nothing's perfect).
Ange
N_Cook
news:3babfeeb-f83c-4f1a...@i41g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
Rob pairs (or more if same matrix dimensions) of buttons cut from the pad of
some disused zapper that has much the same size and spacing of buttons.
Thomas Williams
> Thomas Williams <twill...@gmail.com> wrote in message
thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .
Jeff Liebermann
<twil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
>here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
>the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
>first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .
Y'er welcome. It's a common problem. Incidentally, if you're going
to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
idea of using graphite lock lube. To be a lube, the particles must be
spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
conduct. Good luck.
N_Cook
news:k2sji65jv78er5omn...@4ax.com...
Source for guaranteed "flakey" graphite ?
Jeff Liebermann
>Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
>news:k2sji65jv78er5omn...@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 09:06:29 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
>> <twil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
>> >here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
>> >the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
>> >first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .
>>
>> Y'er welcome. It's a common problem. Incidentally, if you're going
>> to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
>> idea of using graphite lock lube. To be a lube, the particles must be
>> spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
>> What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
>> conduct. Good luck.
>Source for guaranteed "flakey" graphite ?
The author of one of the links I previously mentioned uses
AGS Extra Fine Graphite
from:
<http://www.elementalscientific.net/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=1971>
I have a small 4 oz bottle of graphite in the office I got from an
auto body shop. They use it for lubing window and lock mechanisms in
the door. It seems like a lifetime supply.
Doing some more reading, it appears that only some lock lube uses
spherical particles. Most of the cheap stuff is flake, so I guess
it's probably acceptable to use.
Other sources:
<http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223947446P>
<http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=flake+lubricating+graphite>
More:
<http://www.asbury.com/Natural-Flake-Graphite.html>
Spherical Graphite (used in lock lube and Li-Ion batteries:
<http://www.hpmsgraphite.com/sphericalgraphite.html>
<http://www.hpmsgraphite.com>
Ron D.
On Jan 9, 1:27 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 17:40:25 -0000, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> >Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
> >news:k2sji65jv78er5omn...@4ax.com...
> >> On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 09:06:29 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
> >> <twill...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> >thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
> >> >here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
> >> >the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
> >> >first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .
>
> >> Y'er welcome. It's a common problem. Incidentally, if you're going
> >> to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
> >> idea of using graphite lock lube. To be a lube, the particles must be
> >> spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
> >> What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
> >> conduct. Good luck.
> >Source for guaranteed "flakey" graphite ?
>
> The author of one of the links I previously mentioned uses
> AGS Extra Fine Graphite
> from:
> <http://www.elementalscientific.net/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idProdu...>
>
> I have a small 4 oz bottle of graphite in the office I got from an
> auto body shop. They use it for lubing window and lock mechanisms in
> the door. It seems like a lifetime supply.
>
> Doing some more reading, it appears that only some lock lube uses
> spherical particles. Most of the cheap stuff is flake, so I guess
> it's probably acceptable to use.
>
> Other sources:
> <http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223947446P>
> <http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=flake+lubricating+graphite>
>
> More:
> <http://www.asbury.com/Natural-Flake-Graphite.html>
>
> Spherical Graphite (used in lock lube and Li-Ion batteries:
> <http://www.hpmsgraphite.com/sphericalgraphite.html>
> <http://www.hpmsgraphite.com>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
ste...@my-deja.com
There is conductive paint for just this purpose at electronics stores.
Ford Electronics in Fullerton, CA had some. I saw it there. I think
they ship.
FWIW I tried the aluminum foil glued on, I didn't have 100% success.
Since I wanted a 100% working remote control any less than 100% is
failure. I haven't tried the paint.
Jeff Liebermann
<ron.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Commercial products exist. See www.mcmelectronics.com
Please note that the original question was about making his own
formulation.
<http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-K-CK44-G-/200-315>
I call your missing link and raise you 4 more:
<http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/8339.html>
<http://www.remotecontrolsinc.com/keypad_repair_kit.aspx>
<http://www.replacementremotes.com/Keypad-Repair-Kit/Buy-Keypad-Repair-Kit-Repair-your-Remote-TV-VCR-DVD-Remote.html>
<http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/11927-rubber-keypad-repair-kit-cw2605.html>
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
tm
"Ste...@my-deja.com" <ste...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:ktlki6l34vkuk9s25...@4ax.com...
How about Aqua-dag? I wonder if it is still available? Used to apply a
conductive coating inside and outside of CRT envelopes.
tm
Chuck
wrote:
Aqudag won't work, however the Chemtronics remote repair kit works
great. Chuck
Trevor Wilson
**There are some proprietory kits available for remote control repairs. They
work. I've used them many times with great success. Use one. Alternatively,
but a new remote, or find a suitable programmable one.
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
Dave M
Here is the link to a product specifically made for fixing conductive
keypads.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-K-CK44-G-/200-315
It works... I've used it.
--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net
Thomas Williams
>
> It works... I've used it.
> --
> David
I tried it ( Caikote 44 ). It worked fine for a couple weeks, then
several of the keys died. Disappointing.
Rich Webb
Try Neolube. http://www.micromark.com/NEOLUBE-2-FL-OZ,8383.html. I'm
most familiar with it for [redacted] the [redacted] in the [redacted]
but it also works well for regenerating those conductive pads in
remotes. Proper surface preparation is key, of course.
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA