TIP: long stem, blind, snap rivet reuse.

N_Cook

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Jan 15, 2016, 12:40:47 PM1/15/16

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For holding, through grommets, reverb tank to steel chassis, so not the
usual small ones for DSP boards etc. You cannot reinsert, blind, as the
4 splay bits are permanently splayed out.
Find a metal plate with holes the size to push each rivet in, to close
back the 4 splays, then old soldering iron and hotmelt glue the 4 together.
Reinsert through grommets and chassis, then the closer rivet, with more
force than usual to break the hotmelt .

Gareth Magennis

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Jan 16, 2016, 4:03:58 PM1/16/16

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"N_Cook" wrote in message news:n7bapn$gku$1...@dont-email.me...

Hmmm, I've read that several times now and am none the wiser.

I have a picture of a reverb tank with rivets through grommets on a steel
chassis, but then it goes all wibbly wobbly.

I would be inclined to use 4 x 3mm or 4mm bolts and locknuts.

Gareth.

Kaz Kylheku

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Jan 16, 2016, 6:08:43 PM1/16/16

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On 2016-01-16, Gareth Magennis <sound....@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>
> "N_Cook" wrote in message news:n7bapn$gku$1...@dont-email.me...
>
> For holding, through grommets, reverb tank to steel chassis, so not the
> usual small ones for DSP boards etc. You cannot reinsert, blind, as the
> 4 splay bits are permanently splayed out.
> Find a metal plate with holes the size to push each rivet in, to close
> back the 4 splays, then old soldering iron and hotmelt glue the 4 together.
> Reinsert through grommets and chassis, then the closer rivet, with more
> force than usual to break the hotmelt .
>
>
>
>
> Hmmm, I've read that several times now and am none the wiser.

He seems to have found a way to re-use splay rivets by squeezing
together their splayed ends with a simple jig (metal with holes), and
temporarily hot-gluing them together. The rivets can then
be re-used. Applying the rivet fastener with "more force than usual"
completes the job by breaking off the hot glue.

Gareth Magennis

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Jan 16, 2016, 7:53:10 PM1/16/16

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"Kaz Kylheku" wrote in message news:201601161...@kylheku.com...

Yeah, right, funny how you snipped all my context to suit your own agenda.

Prick.

N_Cook

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Jan 17, 2016, 4:31:03 AM1/17/16

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I've yet to come across blind bolts, other than for masonry use.
ie one sided application , or you have to take the amp apart to fix the
tank, using ordinary nuts and bolts
for a Marshall Valvestate 100V.
Incidently attrocious main board holding, vaguely held nylon standoffs
that allow everything to flap about. Now there one substantial bolt and
nut and spacer went in there to hold heatsink, loads of 7W resistors,
big caps etc, from bouncing around so much

Adrian Caspersz

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Jan 17, 2016, 8:01:37 AM1/17/16

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I'm assuming they are these

http://www.sdproducts.co.uk/push-rivets-removable

Disadvantage in method is ye get a glob of glue rattling around in the
bottom of the case :-p

--
Adrian C

N_Cook

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Jan 17, 2016, 8:02:08 AM1/17/16

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Incidently I find about 20 percent of the tank failures I come across is
failure of the connections to the outside world corrossion or insulated
wires breaking or solder failure at the flexing point ,70percent are
failure of the <>200R coil at the fine wire soldered terminals and only
10% of the time the 200R coil has a break inside somewhere.
So just because they lead out the coil wires too tight to the terminals,
so easily sorted out without taking the spring anchors and iron
pole-piece segments apart.

N_Cook

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Jan 17, 2016, 9:47:46 AM1/17/16

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Those are the bulk standard ones, these are 3/8 inch longer in the stem.
The chassis is open on the other side so easy to collect them , assuming
they pop off the end of the rivets, otherwise you have to remove the
main pcb to get to the blind side of where the tank is fixed.