Is it worth buying hot air station?

[JP de Villiers]

I am planning to buy a Magnum hot air soldering station. The one that blows
hot air through a small hole at the tip of a iron that looks just like a
normal soldering iron. Is it worth investing in such an instrument?
I hadn'd had so much problems with smd components but the day that you have
a problem with such a component you can't complete the job. So my question
is not if it will pay for itself in reasonable time but if it will do the
job effectivly and neatly.
Please Email at j...@lantic.co.za
Thanks

JP de Villiers

[ReglarNavy]

Metcal makes a fine line of temperature controlled irons with a full line of
tips, talons, frames, etc. that will let you replace any surface mount, and
obviously, through-hole part. I'd seriously consider something like that
before going for a hot air system. Hot air is a requirement for BGA's and
bumped parts.

Bruce

[Nigel Cook]

Have a look at my tips files there is use of an ordinary paint-stripping
hot-air gun to remove SMD and ordinary ICs without causing damage to the
ICs or the board.
Diverse Devices,Southampton,England;telephone (+44) (-0)1703 584680
(Shop stocking obscure/obsolete components,second hand test equipment,schematics etc)
Postal: 75 Priory Rd,St Denys,Southampton,England SO17 2JQ.
email div...@tcp.co.uk
regards
Nigel

[Jeff Walther]

Nigel Cook wrote:

> Have a look at my tips files there is use of an ordinary paint-stripping
> hot-air gun to remove SMD and ordinary ICs without causing damage to the
> ICs or the board.

Uh, Nigel, is that tips file on line? I didn't see a URL or other
method of finding the file listed. It's not in Sam's FAQ is it?

[Haywire]

I've used an inexpensive weller (other brands avail. too) butane
soldering pencil (cost abt. $50) for over 5 years with very good results.
Just find yourself a guitar player, and get one of his old steel strings
(the fine ones)- Use the hot air tip on the SMD while pulling gently on the
spring steel wire (which solder will not stick to) and when you get the old
chip, etc. off, use wick to clean up the pads, then apply flux (Avail. from
PRB, etc.) to the pads, install chip, and use a standart 15-30 watt iron to
resolder. (Higher wattage can be used if it is temperature controlled.)
I've done 100-pin SMD's, and after cleaning up the flux, sometimes the other
guys in the shop have difficulty telling which chip on a particular board
has even been replaced. :-)

Jeff Walther wrote in message <36E593...@io.com>...