Fixing a VCR that eats videotapes
les...@fn1.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca
the VCR starts munching on the tape. Does anyone have any ideas on what
might be causing it? It's a front loading 2 head VCR (sorry, I don't
know the make) If you might have some ideas on what's causing it, might
anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it?
Thanks for any and all help.
--
email: les...@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca
Phillip Lytle
tape fast enough. The capstan just wads it up and "chews" it. Where is
the tape accumulating on your machine, if any? Is it just that the edges
of the tape are wrinkled or does the tape get stuck in the machine?
Also, try and get the make and model # as this info helps point to common
problems.
Replacing the belts and tires responsible for the take-up spool should
cure the problem if the tape is not being wound up fast enough, but an
adjustment of the tape track or loading mechanism might be necessary to
cure wrinkled edges.
Phil Lytle :)
S.J.W.
Most older VCR's used a rubber idler wheel that gets old and slips.
CURE: replace the forward rewind idler assembly Usually includes the clutch
and the like.
The part is found under the tape loading cage between the
two take up posts. If this is bad chances are that all the rubber belts are
shot too. Replace those at the same time or pay later.
Sam Goldwasser
> I'm having a problem with a VCR that, as soon as you insert a videotape,
> the VCR starts munching on the tape. Does anyone have any ideas on what
> might be causing it? It's a front loading 2 head VCR (sorry, I don't
> know the make) If you might have some ideas on what's causing it, might
> anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it?
> Thanks for any and all help.
Idler tire.
See the FAQ at:
http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg
--- sam
VCR eats tapes:
--------------
The most common cause of a VCR eating tapes is a dirty/worn idler tire
preventing the takeup reel from turning. See section on "General guide
to VCR cleaning and rubber parts replacement". The idler tire transfers motor
power to the appropriate reel hub. If dirty, worn, dried out, glazed, cracked,
or otherwise deteriorated, it will slip and cause the takeup reel (in
play mode) to stop turning at some point. Hopefully, the microcomputer
senses this and tries to wind the tape back into the cassette. But,
you guessed it, this requires the idler tire so you end up with a mess
of tape inside the machine. When you go to eject, you may get the cassette
with a tape loop hanging out. If you are careful, you may be able to
extract the tape without crinkling it too badly but don't just pull - it
will break or be hopeless damaged. You will need to remove the top cover
and carefully lift the tape loop out of the machine and wind it back into
the cassette. If there is any significant crinkling or a partial break
in the tape, discard the cassette. DO NOT try to use it or
just return it to the video store without informing them of what happened -
it is unfair the next renter as a badly crinkled or partially broken
tape can destroy expensive video heads.
General Guide to VCR Cleaning and Rubber Parts Replacement:
----------------------------------------------------------
All the guideposts, wheels, and rubber parts of a VCR should be cleaned
periodically - how often depends on usage. Of course, no one really does it
unless something goes wrong.
Do not attempt to clean the video heads until you read the procedure
below, you can break them - very expensive lesson. In most cases, they
do not need attention anyhow.
Qtips and alcohol (91% medicinal is ok, pure isopropyl is better. Avoid
rubbing alcohol especially if it contains any additives) can be used
everywhere except the video heads. Just dry quickly to avoid leaving
residue behind.
Cleaning may get your machine going well enough to get by until any replacement
rubber parts arrive.
Things to clean:
1. Capstan and pinch roller. These collect a lot of crud mostly oxide which
flakes off of (old rental) tapes. Use as many Q-tips (wet but not dripping
with alcohol) as necessary to remove all foreign matter from the capstan
(the shiny shaft that pulls the tape through the VCR for play and record).
Just don't get impatient and use something sharp - the crud will come off
with the Qtips and maybe some help from a fingernail.
Clean the pinch roller (presses against the capstan in Play and Record)
and until no more black stuff comes off. Use as many Qtips as necessary.
If the pinch roller is still hard and/or shiny, it will probably need
replacement. Many are available for about $6 from the sources listed
below. It is sometimes possible to put the pinch roller in an electric
drill, drill press, or lathe, and carefully file off the hard shiny dried
out rubber surface layer, but only use a last resort - and this fix is
probably temporary at best.
2. Various guideposts including the roller guides (the white rollers on metal
posts which are near the video head drum when in play or record mode).
When in FF or REW, or with no tape present, these move on tracks to
a position toward the front of the VCR.
3. Idler tire (idler swings between reels and transfers motor power to
reels - clean until no more black stuff comes off. A dirty or worn idler
tire is probably the single most common VCR problem.
If the idler tire appears cracked, glazed, or dried out, it will need to be
replaced. About $.50-$1.00. As a temporary measure, you can usually
turn the tire inside-out and replace it. The protected inner (now outer)
surface will grip well enough to restore functionality until a replacement
tire arrives - and verify the diagnosis as to the cause of your problem.
Also, the idler assembly includes a slip clutch. If this weakens, the
idler may not have enough force to press on the reel table edges. When in
doubt, the entire idler assembly is often available as a replacement part.
4. Reel table edges - surface on the reel tables where the idler contacts.
5. Audio/control head (right side) and full erase head (if you have one, left
side). Q-tips and alcohol are ok for these.
6. Anything else that the tape contacts on its exciting journey through your
machine.
7. Rubber belts. Access to some of these will probably require the removal
of the bottom cover. After noting where each belt goes, remove them
individually (if possible) and clean with alcohol and Qtips or lint free
cloth. Dry quickly to avoid degrading the rubber from contact with the
alcohol. If a belt is trapped by some assembly and not easy to remove,
use the Qtip on the belt and/or pulley in place. However, if it is
stretched, flabby, or damaged, you will need to figure out how to free it.
Any belts that appear loose, flabby or do not return instantly to
their relaxed size when stretched by 25% or so will need to be replaced
and may be the cause of your problems. Belts cost about $.30-$2.00
and complete replacement belt kits are often available by model for $3.-$12.
Meanwhile, the belts will function better once they are cleaned, maybe
just enough to get by until your replacements arrive.
8. Video heads: READ CAREFULLY.
While VCRs should be cleaned periodically, the video heads themselves
usually do not need cleaning unless you have been playing old or defective
rental tapes which may leave oxide deposits on the tips of the delicate
ferrite head chips. Unless you are experiencing video snow, intermittent
color, or loss of or intermittent HiFi sound (HiFi VCRs only, the HiFi
heads are located on the video head drum) leave the video heads alone.
I have used wet type cleaning head cleaning tapes with some success.
Follow the directions but wait sufficient time for everything to dry out
or you will have a tangled mess - 15 minutes or so should do it..
To clean by hand, you will need what are called 'head cleaning sticks'.
These are covered by chamois and are safest. DO NOT USE QTIPS (COTTON
SWABS). These can catch on the ferrite cores and damage them or leave
fibers stuck in the heads. Qtips can be used for cleaning the other
parts like the rollers and audio/control head as described above but
not video heads.
To use the cleaning stick, moisten it with head cleaner or alcohol.
Pure isopropyl is best, however, the 91% medicinal stuff is ok as long
as you dry everything pretty quickly. Don't flood it as it will take
a long time to dry and you run the risk of any water in the alcohol
sitting on surfaces and resulting in rust (very unlikely, but don't
take the chance).
Gently hold the flat portion of the chamois against the upper cylinder
where it is joined to the lower (non-rotating) cylinder. Rotate the upper
cylinder be hand so that the heads brush up against the moist
chamois. DO NOT MOVE THE HEAD CLEANING STICK UP AND DOWN - you
will break the fragile ferrite of the heads - $$$$. Side
to side is ok as long as you are gentle.
Depending on how dirty your heads are, a couple of passes may
be enough. Let everything dry out for at least 1/2 hour. This
process can be repeated. However, one pass will usually do it.
The following are good sources for consumer electronics replacement parts,
especially for VCRs, TVs, and other audio and video equipment:
MCM Electronics (VCR parts, Japanese semiconductors,
1-800-543-4330. tools, test equipment, audio, consumer
electronics including microwave oven parts
and electric range elements, etc.)
Dalbani (Excellent Japanese semiconductor source,
1-800-325-2264. VCR parts, other consumer electronics,)
Premium Parts (Very complete VCR parts, some tools, adapter
1-800-558-9572. cables, other replacement parts.)
--- sam
Marcel de Ruig
>
> I'm having a problem with a VCR that, as soon as you insert a videotape,
> the VCR starts munching on the tape. Does anyone have any ideas on what
Most of the times the reelmotor is not well, or somehow one of your reels
stucks.
Greet$,
Marcel de Ruig
mde...@pi.net