What do you use for lubrication?
Adam Bull
works as well 4 electronics.. I have a friend called Paul P and he always
uses grease.. so do I its great... get a hold of "it" (u know) "it"...
everyone! cause its the best
mate... U'll find it here... www.greasemonkeys.com/bumgrease.htm
I hope ive been of help to you my friend!
Oh yeah
I dont recommend this grease for internal use... ITs only used on "external
parts" ( you know waht i mean!) (dont get carried away now).. and culd be
dangerous if used internally for too long..!
azio
Lionel Wagner
> We've got a number of HP Deskjet 1200C's here that have been stripped down,
> cleaned and repaired before being reassembled. However, one problem is that
> the carriage rod has been de-lubricated...
> I've tried some standard "3 in 1" lubricant, although I'm not certain this
> is the best choice. So, if you were me, what lubrication method would be the
> best? Am I correct to presume oil is the best, or should I be looking at
> some type of grease?
> Before, the printhead was grinding a bit, so I degreased the entire rod and
> applied some more lubrication oil. Although it's now running much looser, it
> still doesn't sound as well as it could be and there is some minor grinding.
> --
The factory lubricated the rod with silicone oil. This oil is not compatible
with conventional oil. Since you have removed it, you can re-lubricate the
rod with a few drops of 5W30 synthetic motor oil. The grinding noises may
be caused by bearing failure of the servo motor. The drive belt tension is
very high on some of these printers.
--
* Retired Audio/Visual Technician ,_,
Lionel * President, Ottawa Science Fiction Society (O,O)
Wagner * Patron member, National Capital Freenet ( )
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Clifton T. Sharp Jr.
> Matthew Saxby wrote:
> > I've tried some standard "3 in 1" lubricant, although I'm not certain this
> > is the best choice.
>
> be conventional wisdom many years ago; I don't know if they have
> changed now.
It was around 1968 that a knowledgable tech told me to repair phono
motors with Singer brand sewing-machine oil, because it does not gum up.
I've been using this on light-duty motors now ever since, and I have
NEVER found any gumming in any unit I've seen afterward. I have one 20"
"window" fan that I've been relubricating for ten years with the stuff.
I even once did a heavy dishwasher motor with it, and the repair lasted
at least the five years my brother's widow kept the house after that.
However, as you say, this guy's application is better served with some
grease, probably lithium grease. I've had luck with Lubriplate.
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Clifton T. Sharp Jr.
> "3 in 1" oil and WD40 should never be used for lubricating purposes. "3 in
> 1" tends to solidify with time. The solvents in WD40 displace any real
> lubricant in your device and replace them with a water repelling wax that
> then gums up the device.
I mentioned in another post a fan I've been relubricating with sewing
machine oil for around ten years now. I once tried 3-in-1 Oil because
I was out of the Singer stuff; the fan gummed up and became hard to
rotate by hand in three or four *days*.
WD-40 didn't have the word "lubricate" on the can for many years, and
I don't know why they put it on at all. I used to convince people not
to lubricate with it by handing them the can and saying, "If you find
the word 'lubricate' on this can, I'll drink the contents."
greg s
>Ralph & Diane Barone wrote:
>> "3 in 1" oil and WD40 should never be used for lubricating purposes. "3 in
>> 1" tends to solidify with time. The solvents in WD40 displace any real
>> lubricant in your device and replace them with a water repelling wax that
>> then gums up the device.
>
>I mentioned in another post a fan I've been relubricating with sewing
>machine oil for around ten years now. I once tried 3-in-1 Oil because
>I was out of the Singer stuff; the fan gummed up and became hard to
>rotate by hand in three or four *days*.
>
>WD-40 didn't have the word "lubricate" on the can for many years, and
>I don't know why they put it on at all. I used to convince people not
>to lubricate with it by handing them the can and saying, "If you find
>the word 'lubricate' on this can, I'll drink the contents."
While it contains mineral oil of some weight, it seems to evaporate
quickly. Didn't the can say something about the "dry film"? That varnish
like coating? Remember when the can had TV tuners on it?
WD-40 forms no wax, thats LPS-3. If WD-40 combines with certain junk,
it might look like wax!
Caig CaiLube might work like a fine lubricant.I bought that little blue
container with the spout. I can't say if it gums, sure hope not!
Cramolin Co. probably also makes some good lubricants. They also seem to
own LPS products.
greg
Asimov
Re: What do you use for lubrication? (22 May 00 16:29:15)
I guess this thread just had to degenerate at some point.
Okay, here goes:
K-Y...?
... If plugging it in doesn't help, turn it on.
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| Signature auto-added at gateway.
jonpi
refridgeration men have it.
synthetic oils will work too
lubriplate #103 is a good white grease
De Guerin
Andre
E-mail returned to sender -- not enough power
Backup not found: (A)bort (R)etry (P)anic (B)eer
On Tue, 23 May 2000, Asimov wrote:
> greg s said the following to All on the subject of
> Re: What do you use for lubrication? (22 May 00 16:29:15)
>
> I guess this thread just had to degenerate at some point.
> Okay, here goes:
>
> K-Y...?
LN2 ? >:->
Mick
> WD-40 didn't have the word "lubricate" on the can for many years,
www.howstuffworks.com points out that the WD part = Water Displacing.
Based on that, I would not rely too heavily on its lubricating
abilities. :)
(Oh, and the 40 bit is apparently the 40th attempt)
Cheers,
Mick.
Michael Salem
> > WD-40 didn't have the word "lubricate" on the can for many years,
>
> www.howstuffworks.com points out that the WD part = Water Displacing.
> Based on that, I would not rely too heavily on its lubricating
> abilities. :)
Many years ago, before WD40 was available, I knew a trombonist who
found available oils too heavy for his requirement of keeping the
slide lubricated but with very low viscocity. He used Flit spray,
which was an insecticide with active ingredient DDT (I think), which
used a light petroleum distillate to create an aerosol when the
manual dispenser was pumped (like a bicycle pump). So he, at least,
found the lubricating properties of petroleum distillates to be
useful.
I haven't kept in touch with him and don't know how his health has
been.
--
Michael Salem
David M. Brodbeck
> www.howstuffworks.com points out that the WD part = Water Displacing.
--> Yup. I've used it to dry out the inside of the distributor cap on my
VW, on wet days when it wouldn't start. (Remove cap, spray inside with
WD-40, wipe with rag, replace cap.) It works okay as a penetrating oil,
too, but there are really much better products for that purpose.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Brodbeck, N8SRE dmbr...@mtu.edu
finger gu...@cyberspace.org for my public key block.
"The largest ocean in the world starts or ends at Monterey, California.
It depends on what language you are speaking." -- Richard Brautigan
Wild Bill
mechanisms. Common lithium grease tends to dry out and almost solidify with
age, when left exposed to air and dust.
In most cases where bronze-type bearings are used, low viscosity oil will
provide excellent results. I've seen the effects of some oils which will
turn into a gummy, varnish-like residue in time.
The best product i've found for small bearings and small parts that rotate
on spindles, is Caig's DeoxIt (formulated for switches and electrical
contacts) applied from a needle-tipped applicator bottle.
For gear teeth and cam follower parts that withstand more frictional load,
i've found that GC Electronics' Luberex Lubricant # 1206-S works best.
Where the load bearing surfaces are in contact full time, or intermittently,
this product has enough cling to stay where it's been applied. It's
consistency is somewhat like that of a gelled grease.
For printer print head/carriage shaft bearing parts, the actual mating
materials should be examined. Some units might utilize plastic bearing
surfaces which ride on the shaft.. a thin film of Luberex would be excellent
for reducing friction.
For bronze bearing material on steel, DeoxIt would penetrate the pores of
the bearing more effectively, and minimize friction by keeping the bearings
wet. A light oil would also have the same effect.
Some other very good lubricants are gun cleaning and protection products.
Two of Hoppe's products have been providing excellent results. Their Item #
1003 is a medium weight oil, and Item # BR1003 is a thin, penetrant-type
lubricant.
Government firearm bans might require special permits to obtain these
products.
cheers
WB
..................
Matthew Saxby wrote in message ...
>We've got a number of HP Deskjet 1200C's here that have been stripped down,
>cleaned and repaired before being reassembled. However, one problem is that
>the carriage rod has been de-lubricated...
>
>I've tried some standard "3 in 1" lubricant, although I'm not certain this
>is the best choice. So, if you were me, what lubrication method would be
the
>best? Am I correct to presume oil is the best, or should I be looking at
>some type of grease?
>
>Before, the printhead was grinding a bit, so I degreased the entire rod and
>applied some more lubrication oil. Although it's now running much looser,
it
>still doesn't sound as well as it could be and there is some minor
grinding.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--
>Matthew Saxby
>
>
>
Matthew Saxby
I've a feeling you may have got the wrong idea about my question!!
Adam Bull <az...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:8gbp7q$8u9$1...@uranium.btinternet.com...
Matthew Saxby
Just to thank all of you for your replys. To reply to them all would take so
long!
Anyway, what's been said has been noted and I now know what we should and
shouldn't be using for lubrication. I've followed suggestions and have now
got a nice, noiseless (well nearly!) printer.
Many Thanks,
Matthew
Matthew Saxby <sa...@cableinet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:OGEV4.5215$PZ6.6...@news3.cableinet.net...
Clifton T. Sharp Jr.
> Many years ago, before WD40 was available, I knew a trombonist who
> found available oils too heavy for his requirement of keeping the
> slide lubricated but with very low viscocity. He used Flit spray,
> which was an insecticide with active ingredient DDT (I think), which
> used a light petroleum distillate to create an aerosol when the
> manual dispenser was pumped (like a bicycle pump). So he, at least,
> found the lubricating properties of petroleum distillates to be
> useful.
>
> I haven't kept in touch with him and don't know how his health has
> been.
Bet his eggs aren't hatching.